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Old 08-31-2020, 04:57 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Christyn Midwestyn View Post
Do you mean a 30amp cord? No I'm very flexible as far as power options go.

I was referring to the new Snoozy. The previous one was all-electric, meant for camping in KOAs I guess. You could apparently pay somebody to retrofit it for propane.
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Old 09-01-2020, 06:48 PM   #22
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Name: Charlie
Trailer: 2014 Lil Snoozy
North Carolina
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Wood-FREE models?

Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo View Post
I was referring to the new Snoozy. The previous one was all-electric, meant for camping in KOAs I guess. You could apparently pay somebody to retrofit it for propane.

It does not have installed propane. With the dorm fridge, it is a KOA kid. I have the 12 volt Truck fridge and duel 6 volt batteries. That’s enough for 3-4 days out. I do use propane and butane for heat and cooking. I use the little camp bottles. I see no need for installed propane. In fact we are cooking on a butane stove right now.
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Old 09-01-2020, 08:22 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by jimiller5 View Post
Lance uses an aluminum frame with foam insulation.
Quite a few Australian Caravans use Composite construction with an aluminium or steel frame
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Old 09-01-2020, 08:25 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Christyn Midwestyn View Post
I had no idea about Lil Snoozy being made by a boat company! I know they were recently rebought (right term?), I wonder if they're keeping the same type of construction?
130 built rhey sound like a very boutique outfit.
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Old 09-02-2020, 05:28 AM   #25
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When I built my Lil Hauley (a lil snoozy shell on a trailer) in the first quarter of 2019 I built it for boondocking, with propane stove, heater, hot water, and LFP battery system. It's a great travel trailer. I went nearly 30k miles last year with no issues. When I cut openings for windows, hatches, etc., I sealed the edge of the fiberglass with Lexel. I also caulked around every penetration for water, gas, etc.. The floor is vinyl tiles over cork. It is mold resistant and can be easily removed it required. Basically, I designed it for functionality and ease of maintenance.
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Old 09-02-2020, 07:37 AM   #26
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Name: JD
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The problem with wood is poor design, not the material.
When I rebuilt my Scamp with a 3/4" exterior plywood floor I covered both sides and the edges with fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin. The fiberglass interior is sealed completely and I can testify will hold water as during construction the rear window leaked and water was standing back there.
Polyester resin will allow water to penetrate over time and in my opinion is mostly an inexpensive route with many compromises.
Attention to detail and design to prevent water intrusion is the key, but in a semi-mass production setting the cost and time rules that out in most cases.
Mold does not need to have wood to form, just moisture and a source of food. Mold in my old Scamp was mostly on and in the Ensolite insulation that forms the wall covering and took a lot of time and effort to eliminate.
I have found that keeping a dehumidifier going in the trailer has made a difference, in my case I keep the mini-split AC on year round.
If you do not keep up with the maintenance necessary to keep the water out then you will have problems.
Sealing the penetrations well and proper design should allow the use of one of the most useful building materials with few problems.
While many of these small trailers have problems with rotten floors it is due to neglect and poor design. Spraying polyester resin on the bottom of the floor does nothing to protect from the most likely cause of floor rot, leaking windows and openings for heaters, refrigerators, etc.
My trailer was made to eliminate most of these intrusions other than windows. This is the reason for the compressor refrigerator and heat pump, not to mention the tankless hot water heater on the tongue.
There are openings for the potable water reel and the black water reel, but again these compartments are sealed with epoxy fiberglass as is the storage compartment on the street side.
These small fiberglass trailers are already more expensive than others due to construction and eliminating the wood, while is an intriguing idea, would price them out of most budgets. The cost would be similar the the Airstream NEST which is breathtakingly expensive for the size.
If one really wanted to build something like this then a foam inner core with epoxy fiberglass would do the trick, but the foam can also absorb water and also delaminate as seen in many "fiberglass" "stick" trailers.
To each his own and good luck with your search.
By the way even with all of these real problems these molded fiberglass trailers seem to last a very long time, mine ,requiring a rebuild, is 35 years old.
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