12v issue - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-20-2021, 10:59 AM   #1
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12v issue

I have a 2007 Casita 17'. I always keep my battery on a tender out of the trailer. Last week the night before a 3 day trip, I installed my battery and connected shore power to chill the refrig (3 way). The next day I switched the frig to gas and headed out to a local State Park without hook-ups.

Upon set up and disconnecting from tv, the frig stopped working after 20 minutes and I had no dc power.

Does the frig need dc to operate? If so how much and if not...what happened to it?

I ran my generator/ inverter on ac for 45 minutes and managed to get another 20 minutes. I plugged in my trailer plug to it, but now I'm thinking I should've connected it directly to the battery. Even so... why did my battery go dead? I wasn't using any lights or fans. only the frig.

I don't know where the rv converter is, so I can't check the wiring.

Help!
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Old 09-20-2021, 11:59 AM   #2
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12v issue

I have a 2007 Casita 17'. If the frig is set to operate on gas, will it run down the battery?
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Old 09-20-2021, 04:28 PM   #3
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12V is required to run the fridge control panel, AND to operate the propane solenoid valve in the fridge.
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Old 09-20-2021, 04:33 PM   #4
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Thanks Charlie, but wouldn't that just be milliamps?
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Old 09-20-2021, 04:35 PM   #5
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The propane refrigerator likely uses some 12 volt for a control panel and gas valve. Furnace is much the same. Must have 12 volt blower to operate.

Some older propane refrigerators didn't draw 12 volt but I have no idea what years/models the cut over from no 12 volt needed to 12 volt required took place.

It may be in the refrigerator manual, or someone may be able to tell yo for sure from the refrigerator model number and age.
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Old 09-20-2021, 05:18 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Sally Stoner View Post
Thanks Charlie, but wouldn't that just be milliamps?
yes, it would be a very small amount of power if it has a control board and is on propane. The number might be in the manual. And as you were told in the sister thread you started, some fridges do not use electric power at all, such as the RM2410 which I got six years ago. So get the model and check the manual. Vented furnaces using a fan take roughly 2-6 amps when running. Depends on the model.
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Old 09-20-2021, 07:32 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Sally Stoner View Post
Thanks Charlie, but wouldn't that just be milliamps?
Yup. No milliamps means no workie........
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Old 09-20-2021, 10:06 PM   #8
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Thanks Gordon, I did check the manual and it stated .75 milliamps on gas. I know the furnace draws 4 amps
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Old 09-20-2021, 10:12 PM   #9
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thanks Roger
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Old 09-21-2021, 06:21 AM   #10
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You unfortunate people with fridge's that use propane yet still require a minuscule amount of 12 volt electric power might want to consider a small backup battery just for the fridge. A small 4-8 AH gel cell such as in alarm systems would be plenty. Perhaps add a connector in the power wires leading to the control board, and if you find yourself with a dead or dying house battery, unplug the connector and connect the spare battery. Just a thought.
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Old 09-21-2021, 07:54 AM   #11
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You say that you installed the battery. On my Scamp, the black wire is positive; many folks connect the battery incorrectly. From the factory there is usually a fuse in the positive lead to the battery, and the wire is also usually black on the positive side.



About the 'fridge; the Dometic in my Scamp is propane or 120 volt AC. No electric power is required to operate on propane.



--Dan Meyer
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Old 09-21-2021, 10:17 AM   #12
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How old is your battery? many batteries when near end of life, will hold what is I call a float charge, it looks good to chargers and voltage testers, but when yu put a real draw on the battery, it lasts only minutes.
the other possibility is a burnt fuse or damaged power wire near the battery
Joe
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Old 09-21-2021, 10:45 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Joe MacDonald View Post
How old is your battery? many batteries when near end of life, will hold what is I call a float charge, it looks good to chargers and voltage testers, but when yu put a real draw on the battery, it lasts only minutes.
the other possibility is a burnt fuse or damaged power wire near the battery
Joe
Joe is probably right. (except that we call it a surface charge). Take the battery to an auto parts store for a load test. If its old or has not been treated well its likely time to replace it. A load test is usually free and will tell you for sure.
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Old 09-21-2021, 10:55 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by gordon2 View Post
Joe is probably right. (except that we call it a surface charge). Take the battery to an auto parts store for a load test. If its old or has not been treated well its likely time to replace it. A load test is usually free and will tell you for sure.
Not free, but close, if Sally is near a Princess Auto:
https://www.princessauto.com/en/100a...t/PA0008494031
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Old 09-21-2021, 12:30 PM   #15
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After a long walk with my dog, I decided that having the battery tested would be my next step. I must've picked up both the vibes.

Thanks for all the suggestions. Second step: read wiring diagram.
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Old 09-22-2021, 06:32 PM   #16
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YAbout the 'fridge; the Dometic in my Scamp is propane or 120 volt AC. No electric power is required to operate on propane.
--Dan Meyer
So, do you have to light a pilot light so the burner can light off of it, or how does the fire get lit?

Charles
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Old 09-22-2021, 06:40 PM   #17
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Lighting the refrigerator

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Originally Posted by CharlesinGA View Post
So, do you have to light a pilot light so the burner can light off of it, or how does the fire get lit?Charles
On my Scamp it is not a pilot as such but a burner that is always on.
It's at 2:50 in this video. Note that the "FLAME VIEW PORT" is useless in day light, I use it at night or with a cover over my head.
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Old 09-22-2021, 07:10 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by CharlesinGA View Post
So, do you have to light a pilot light so the burner can light off of it, or how does the fire get lit?
A lot of people call the burner a pilot light.. because it is a small flame like a pilot light. But it is the entire source of heat for the absorption works in the fridge. In a non-electric fridge it is lit with a Piezo ignitor activated by a mechanical push button, although one can remove the cover and use a match if the Piezo fails.
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Old 09-23-2021, 08:26 AM   #19
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More good info.
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Old 09-25-2021, 11:36 AM   #20
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Name: Hugh
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monitoring a DC circuit

I have used this device for many years but have never seen it discussed on the forum so I will suggest it as a possibility for trouble shooting DC circuits. The device is in fact a computer, it boots up when power is applied. It reads volts, amps and watts in real time while accumulating data and cycling through amp hours (Ah), watt hours (Wh) and a couple more units I don't use. They are supplied with Anderson connectors, you can provide your own connector for temporary insertion in a circuit or hard wire it in for a permanent installation. If you need help with Anderson connectors look to a ham radio club since the Anderson connectors are standard across the emergency response organizations RACES and ARES.

SAFETY: the device is advertised as capable of handling current to 150 amperes. Don't try it, that is way optimistic, a current of 20 amps is a lot for the wire gauge provided.

There are many sources, here are two:
https://www.dxengineering.com/search...d=volt%20meter
https://www.qsradio.com/shop-now.htm...egory=13310007

regards, Hugh KW5X
currently renovating a Weiscraft Little Joe
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