Maintenance & Restoration

Art LC · 04-02-2012, 08:37 PM

just bought a 1980 5500 trillium, would like to talk to other similar owners as we are new to this type of trailers and have many questions, like where can I get replacement decals, can I re-do the floor without taking out the cabinets, where can I get the front scoop that covers the propane tanks and battery.

Donna D. · 04-02-2012, 08:40 PM

Hi Art, I can't help... not a Trillium owner... but, wanted to remind you... now you can change your profile.

And, have any pictures to share?

Art LC · 04-02-2012, 09:04 PM

will do Donna, thanks

Joe MacDonald · 04-05-2012, 03:06 AM

the 5500 series were almost built as custom units, i have never seen two identical so far. the graphics you will need to go to a sign shop, or you might be able to get some from Tom at trillium in Canada. you can get aftermarket propane covers at most rv dealers, but the factory one for your trailer will be difficult to find.

Joe

Brian Johnson · 04-06-2012, 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Art LC

just bought a 1980 5500 trillium, would like to talk to other similar owners as we are new to this type of trailers and have many questions, like where can I get replacement decals, can I re-do the floor without taking out the cabinets, where can I get the front scoop that covers the propane tanks and battery.

Art; I have a 5500 and a 1300 and hae done extensive re-work to both.
If interested I can send pictures and ideas
Brian

Art LC · 04-07-2012, 09:34 PM

Brian,
that would be greatly appreciated, I would like to remodel it to some extent although I have a somewhat conservative budget. pictures would be great to see, so far I have taken out a window to replace rotted out wood, and I am about to remove part of the floor plywood because of the same reason, this unit must of had a bad leak (back window), is this a common issue? thanks in advance
Art & Cheryl

Normand Choiniere · 04-09-2012, 02:49 PM

I have one and also done a lot of work. I also had a 13 feet which I rebuild. As far as decals are concerned either you get brand new from a specialized shop or repair them with touch-up paint. This is what I will be doing as soon as i get the right colour (orange).

Floor are "normally" bumpy in a 5500. This is the side effect of their decision of making it as light as possible. I've seen one who redone the floor (without removing the cabinets) and the result is so so. Sure that you can make it perfect but you will have to use thick plywood and will have to shim it. I haven't done anything except installing the Allure vinyl floor (Home Depot), which does a very good job and is very easy to install. Forget about comments on problems with cold weather. Mine has gone through tough winter and is still in perfect condition.

I have made many modifications on mine and be pleased to make suggestions according to your priorities.

One of the first things to do is to make it shine with Zep (Red Max pro)! Worked perfectly on mine.

Art LC · 04-09-2012, 07:16 PM

does anyone know how hard it will be to take out and re-install the kitchen cabinet and all the other cabinets, i have taken out the back bed-dinnet and that wasen't too hard, the plywood underneath was rotted out and someone covered it with another sheet of plywwod(this one also rotted out), were these trilliums built with two sheets of plywood? I haven't been able to remove it all as of yet, what did I get myself into!!!

Normand Choiniere · 04-11-2012, 05:08 PM

Don't forget that the last sheet of plywood is covered (under) with fibreglass. This is part of the shell! If something is rotten first reseal all your windows and check the belly band (less probable source).

Art LC · 04-11-2012, 08:58 PM

Normand,
i am in the process of replacing the back window (not too hard)the floor is where I am having trouble, both layers of plywood have rotted out by the back window (actually an ares the size of the table) have you ever replaced the bottom plywood.

Normand Choiniere · 04-12-2012, 05:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Art LC

Normand,
i am in the process of replacing the back window (not too hard)the floor is where I am having trouble, both layers of plywood have rotted out by the back window (actually an ares the size of the table) have you ever replaced the bottom plywood.

No. And I would not. That could be a "hazardous" maneuver. I would simply clean the area as much as possible, remove the rotten parts then fill and level everything with fiberglass. I would then simply replace the top plywood with new one. period. If you redo the back window with butyl tape (which is the only way to go) check how is the wood around the window. No compromise with that or you are going to get into trouble more or less sooner. I personally replace the rotten wood with treated wood. Also use only stainless steel screws.

Art LC · 04-12-2012, 05:48 PM

Normand,
thank you for the advice, I am replacing the window exactly as you mentioned, the floor is a bit more of a chalenge as about a third of the bottom plywood is rotted out, I am debating weather to remove the kitchenette and refrigerator cabinet in order to remove the rest of the rotted out plywood, that would be about half of the trailer. i do have a question for you, are two layers of plywood normal ?, I thought the second layer was added to hide the damage.

Normand Choiniere · 04-13-2012, 09:03 AM

I only have one layer. This is why the Trillium 5500 has a "bumpy" floor. That original plywood is too thin and flexible. They simply wanted to save weight.

By the way a rotten plywood is not an absolute disaster if you reinforce it with something like fiberglass. This is what I would do. Repair it with fiberglass and cover it with another plywood that will match with the second layer. Removing the basic plywood layer appears to me impossible to do as it is embedded in the trailer structure. I would also not remove all the cabinets unless it is absolutely necessary.

On the other hand you can remove everything and redo the interior. I've seen one totally redone like that. The owner is a cabinet maker and did a fantastic job... but he did not added a second layer of plywood and his floor is still somewhat bumpy! <_<

David Tilston · 04-13-2012, 12:37 PM

My Trillium 4500 has two layers. One embedded in the glass, and another over top that.

Normand Choiniere · 04-14-2012, 07:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Tilston

My Trillium 4500 has two layers. One embedded in the glass, and another over top that.

The 4500 is a bigger 1300 but built exactly like a 1300. The 5500 is really different. For example the interior is not fiberglass made but wood. They all have done all that to reduce the weight. That is the concept behind the 5500.

Art LC · 04-15-2012, 05:02 PM

Normand, do you have any pics of the inside of your 5500, in time i would like to re-do mine, right now the wife just wants me to get it camp ready as we have reservations for July and August.

Roger C H · 04-19-2012, 11:05 PM

Hmm. 5500s must be quite different from 1300s. My 1300's cabinets are glassed to the shell and as such form a part of the basic structure of the unit and should not be removed.
If your interior is all wood, ala Escape, that also helps strengthen the shell as I understand and should be replaced as much as possible to match the original.

Donna D. · 04-20-2012, 04:41 AM

Roger, check out the Trillium album. In my view the 5500 is at the top, maybe by viewing the pics you'd have a better understanding: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/m...-albums96.html

Art LC · 04-21-2012, 08:33 AM

I bought this trailer for $6500 and I am finding a lot of damage, for example there is a large section of the floor that has water damage and is rooted out (alsmost half the trailer) also two of the windows have leaks and have rotted out wood, I have a feeling that the brakes need work and the cabinets are all pretty loose, did I get taken on this one or is this still not a bad price, I estimate that I will probably need to spend about $5000 to get it in good shape if I do most of the work myself.