1985 Scamp 13' Tires, Jack Question - Fiberglass RV
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Old 05-24-2006, 12:28 PM   #1
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Hi All,

Scamp-Newbie here...

I am travelling a distance this weekend to purchase a used 13' 1985 Scamp this weekend (Yay!), and I am trying to verify the tire size so that I can put new tires on it before I tow it back home. Does anyone know if the tires for all 13' Scamps over the years (especially 1985) are the same, 13" B rating?

Also, I'm wondering if my Toyota Sienna '05 car jack will suffice in case I need to change a flat on the Scamp during my journey (I read in the online manual that you need to use a jack other than the one equipped on the trailer for tire-changing purposes)?

My husband and I have greatly enjoyed looking at all your trailer modifications and rennovations, and we are finding this forum an incredibly interesting and helpful resource. Looking forward to getting our hands dirty with our own Scamp!


Thanks!
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Old 05-24-2006, 12:40 PM   #2
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Welcome! This is the group with the answers! The collective wisdom here is astounding!

I can't answer your question but realize it's one I should know myself in case I have a flat. I do recommend getting a small bottle jack as there are times your tongue can be so low that you can't lower the attached jack (been there, done that )! They are cheap and worth their weight in gold.

Someone will come along and tell you what you need to have. Just wanted to say hi and welcome!

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Old 05-24-2006, 01:25 PM   #3
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I don't know what the "official" answer is, but I can tell you that I have used my car jack to jack up my trailer several times. I assumed that since it weighs less than my tow vehicle, it wouldn't hurt the jack and would do the trick - which it did. Just don't jack it up on the axle. The size of the lug nuts on my trailer are different than the ones on the car, so I do carry a seperate lug wrench.

As far as the tire size, I would get the best 13" trailer tire that I could, but that's just my opinion. I'm not talking brand, just a good quality tire with the highest rating available. I am NOT, repeat NOT a tire expert (where's Steve L.? when we need him) but I believe that a "C" load range is a better tire than a B and I would check into it.
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Old 05-24-2006, 01:30 PM   #4
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Question: Are you planning on taking the tires with you and changing them out yourself? If so, I assume you will be purchasing new rims as well. If you are, then you'll need to make sure the rims are correct also.

IF possible AND you are using the same rims, you might want to see if you can find a local tire or trailer dealer to replace them for you ... at least the first time. Wouldn't hurt to check the bearings, either. Just a thought.
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Old 05-24-2006, 01:37 PM   #5
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IF possible AND you are using the same rims, you might want to see if you can find a local tire or trailer dealer to replace them for you ... at least the first time. Wouldn't hurt to check the bearings, either. Just a thought.
I had the same thought, Suz. I did this with mine and the cost to have someone else do it was minimal.

You may do a search ahead of time to find the tire places to make some calls to make sure they carried the tire you want. Of course, with this group, someone may know a specific dealership to send you to!
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Old 05-24-2006, 04:49 PM   #6
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Assuming that the 2005 and 2004 Sienna use the same jack (and I would be very surprised if it changed), it is a scissors design which should be easy enough to place under the trailer frame.

With my Boler, I would be concerned that the Sienna jack might not go high enough, since the frame bottom is already a foot off the ground at normal ride height, but this may not be a concern for a Scamp, especially a 13' model - I don't know.

The other issue is that the top of the jack is designed to fit onto specific points on the van structure, rather than being a generic plate for pushing up on the frame - I would have a look and see if it is a particularly awkward shape, since the one from my earlier Toyota (a Tercel) would not be great for this use. I have not even used my Sienna jack for the Sienna (I use a hydraulic garage jack), let alone the Boler, so this question is a good reminder for me to check this out!

My Boler has very common Dexter hubs with 5 bolts, and the studs are 1/2" thread (which was the common practice for at least 1/2-ton pickup trucks before metric threads); the nuts require a 13/16" socket. The Sienna nuts need a 21 mm wrench (socket), and are presumably a 12 mm (probably M12x1.5) thread. That means a separate wrench is required, as Suz mentioned; I carry a 1/2" drive flex handle (not a ratchet, just a long drive handle) with sockets to fit both the trailer wheel nuts and the hitch ball's nut. With a socket to fit the Sienna nuts as well, I figure I'm set to turn any of the nuts which require a lot of force and might need turning on the roadside, and I have a backup to the Mickey Mouse wrench which usually comes with the tow vehicle. In practice, I have not used any of them yet, and the auto club tow truck would have this stuff anyway - if I could contact them and was willing to wait for them.
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Old 05-25-2006, 07:39 AM   #7
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Mine is also made for a specific spot on the car, but it still works well on my trailer. I hadn't thought about height issue, but I suppose that it could be. I have such a drop on my hitch that even though my trailer has been raised 4" it works very well. I'm sure that the Sienna is closer to the ground than my SUV, but a stock 13' Scamp probably would still be within it's limits. Rather than guessing, I'd pull it out and see how far it goes up.

We have floor jacks here at home and I tried one on the trailer once. Even though some prefer them, I still like my auto jack for the trailer. Works much smoother under my control.
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Old 05-25-2006, 12:30 PM   #8
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Quote:
Question: Are you planning on taking the tires with you and changing them out yourself? If so, I assume you will be purchasing new rims as well. If you are, then you'll need to make sure the rims are correct also.

IF possible AND you are using the same rims, you might want to see if you can find a local tire or trailer dealer to replace them for you ... at least the first time. Wouldn't hurt to check the bearings, either. Just a thought.
Yes, we're going to bring just some tires, and then have a shop up there change them out with the existing rims. We'll probably check the bearings once we get home (save some $).
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Old 05-25-2006, 12:42 PM   #9
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Thanks for all the info, everyone!

After reading your replies and doing a little more research, I'm thinking we'll pick up some LT 13" tires rated C (or above) with max sidewall pressure and steel ribbing. Going to also pick up a lug nut wrench that fits the trailer lug nuts (still searching for exactly what size those are on a 13' Scamp from 1987), and we'll just try using our Sienna's jack if need-be (we have AAA road service, so I guess they can come help us if the jack didn't actually work).
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Old 05-25-2006, 01:28 PM   #10
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Tirah,
I've raised my trailer with jacks made for Honda Accords, Nissan Maximas, and Toyota Siennas. No problems with any of them. You might check at Wal Mart for lug wrench. They sell a four- ended, X shaped, wrench that has two arms that fold. Tom Trostel
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Old 05-30-2006, 08:18 PM   #11
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Just don't jack it up on the axle.

WHY? I just borrowed some jack stands and was planning on taking off the wheels soon to get the tires replaced. Can I just use the frame of the trailer? why shouldn't i place the jack behind the wheel on the axle? I've got a S13
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Old 05-30-2006, 08:32 PM   #12
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Steve, it's not good for the rubber in the axle if you try to use the arm. If you use the axle tube, there's a good chance you'll bend it out of it's alignment. The axle just wasn't meant to be raised with a jack. Jack the trailer up using the frame. Usually the best place is right in front (or behind if you have a leading arm axle rather than trailing arm) the axle bracket. If you're going to use jack stands, you ought to be able to lift the frame near the axle and put jack stands under both front and rear.

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Old 05-30-2006, 10:49 PM   #13
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Here's what the Scamp Owner's Manual sez about jacking:

Quote:
Jacking up the trailer: On the trailer there are two min beams made out of 3 inch by 1 inch tubing, one on each side. Either of these can be used as a point to jack up the trailer. Jack should be placed close to the axle or toward the rear of the trailer, so that the whole weight of the trailer is not on one point. WARNING: The rear bumper jacks are not intended to be used as a jack for changing tires. A scissor jack, hydraulic jack, or a floor jack should be used. A jack is not supplied with the trailer.
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Old 05-31-2006, 06:48 AM   #14
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Thanks for the advice. After looking more closely I would have put the jack on the frame either behind or in front of the wheel.
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Old 05-31-2006, 07:06 AM   #15
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Over the years I have found a small bottle Jack, some pieces of 1"x6" wood , a four way lug wrench and a small shovel have allowed me to change a tire in any location. I once lost a wheel. Found it in the woods but had to jack trailer off the ground wood and a bottle jack did the trick. as far as tires any good tire shop can fix you right up . C load if what I have on my 5thwheel Scamp.
Good Luck and most of all enjoy
Taylor
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Old 05-31-2006, 09:16 AM   #16
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Quote:
Over the years I have found a small bottle Jack, some pieces of 1"x6" wood , a four way lug wrench and a small shovel have allowed me to change a tire in any location. I once lost a wheel. Found it in the woods but had to jack trailer off the ground wood and a bottle jack did the trick. as far as tires any good tire shop can fix you right up . C load if what I have on my 5thwheel Scamp.
Good Luck and most of all enjoy
Taylor

Thanks to all of your tips, our trip to pickup our Scamp this weekend went very well! We brought tires up with us and had Walmart change them out for $20 (I prewarned them about where to jack up the trailer). We towed it over 600 miles without any problems, and now it's safely in our backyard, getting a makeover.

I have the trailer's frame resting on two of those tiny jacks (bottle jacks, like Taylor mentioned?)- which were inside the trailer when we bought it used- to take the weight off the tires while it's parked. Seems to work really well. I'd imagine that would work fine if we needed to take a tire off to change it.
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Old 06-04-2006, 08:08 AM   #17
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Quote:
Over the years I have found a small bottle Jack, some pieces of 1"x6" wood , a four way lug wrench and a small shovel have allowed me to change a tire in any location. I once lost a wheel. Found it in the woods but had to jack trailer off the ground wood and a bottle jack did the trick. as far as tires any good tire shop can fix you right up . C load if what I have on my 5thwheel Scamp.
Good Luck and most of all enjoy
Taylor
The tire size for an '85 Scamp is 175,80,13 load range B, C has a higher load rating and would work just as well, but requires a higher pressure (and I find, costs less). Just be sure they are TRAILER tires. Just picked up an '85 in Alabama and pulled it to Texas, about 850 miles. My van didn't come with a jack, just got a sissors jack at WallyWorld for in case. Figured if I had it I wouldn't need it, but if I didn't have it, I'd wind up in trouble. Ergo, no trouble.
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Old 06-04-2006, 07:21 PM   #18
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Quote:
I am travelling a distance this weekend to purchase a used 13' 1985 Scamp this weekend (Yay!), and I am trying to verify the tire size so that I can put new tires on it before I tow it back home. Does anyone know if the tires for all 13' Scamps over the years (especially 1985) are the same, 13" B rating?

Also, I'm wondering if my Toyota Sienna '05 car jack will suffice in case I need to change a flat on the Scamp during my journey (I read in the online manual that you need to use a jack other than the one equipped on the trailer for tire-changing purposes)?
I think that the tires for the 13' and 16' are the same except the 13' is a B range rather than C. The factory recommended I replace the bias ply tires on our '99 Scamp with Goodyear 175 80 R13 radial load range C. The jack I use is a common scissor jack which I also use to stabilize the rear of the trailer when the leveler jacks on the rear bumper are too long to use (when backed into an incline). I prob. could use the Durango jack without problem but I sure don't want to leave it with the trailer when it's parked and we are using the tug to look around.
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Old 06-04-2006, 08:44 PM   #19
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Quote:
...My Boler has very common Dexter hubs with 5 bolts, and the studs are 1/2" thread (which was the common practice for at least 1/2-ton pickup trucks before metric threads); the nuts require a 13/16" socket. The Sienna nuts need a 21 mm wrench (socket), and are presumably a 12 mm (probably M12x1.5) thread. That means a separate wrench is required, as Suz mentioned...
Some of you were probably thinking: "doesn't he know 13/16" and 21 mm are the same size?" Indeed, they are very close (13/16" is 20.6375 mm), and I found some 1/2-20 nuts (for a Chev pickup) in my toolbox which were actually labeled as 21 mm hex size. I test-fit some sockets on various nuts, and found that the two sizes interchange reasonably well, although the tightest of my 13/16" sockets (there is significant tolerance in these things) barely goes on the Sienna's 21 mm nuts.

So two observations:
  • I found that one socket serves both my van and my Boler, if required, despite the tug being metric. This likely works for many of our tow vehicles, since many have M12 studs.
  • For an even better match, nuts for the trailer (1/2" thread, 20 threads per inch) with a 21 mm hex (like M12 metric wheel nuts) are (or were) available.
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Old 06-04-2006, 10:50 PM   #20
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For a jack, I've gone to what is called aquick change tire jack, which greatly simplifies trying to dig out the car jack when travelling. I would only use this jack when connected to the tow vehicle, but it is great!

http://www.go-rv.com/coast/do/catalog/page...567&pageNum=488

See item 735073. I first saw it advertised in a Bass Pro Shops catalog.

Victor
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