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06-29-2012, 09:01 PM
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#1
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Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 49
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'82 Scamp Axle
Hi All,
I fired off a question to Scamp today about replacing the axle in my '82 Scamp 13' camper. Here is the response:
"9TF22 5 on 4.5, idler with break flange, high pro bracket, easy lube, 63x49 ¾ 22.5 up"
I'll start making assumptions here.
9TF22 is a part number for Dexter Torflex axle.
5 on 4.5 is the bolt pattern for the hub.
I'm assuming "break flange" is a brake flange.
63 is the hub face width and 49.75 is the width of the frame rails.
Also, they require a 22.5 up? Is that correct? I can't seem to wrap my brain around that - it seems like it would require the 22.5 down?
Thanks,
Steve
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06-30-2012, 02:42 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,141
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9TF22 = Dexter #9 Torflex @ 2200 lbs
Torflex recommends 10 degree down
Older trailers were up because of the leading arm. A 10 degree is essentially 0 loaded.
break=brake to me too
how many bolts on your rims?
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06-30-2012, 02:49 AM
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#3
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Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 49
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Hi Roy,
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roy in TO
9TF22 = Dexter #9 Torflex @ 2200 lbs
Torflex recommends 10 degree down
Older trailers were up because of the leading arm. A 10 degree is essentially 0 loaded.
break=brake to me too
how many bolts on your rims?
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I currently have 4 hole wheels, but they're quite rough so I imagine I'll be getting newer wheels soon.
Know anything about the Flexiride Torsion system? It's adjustable. I'm sort of leaning that direction now - seems like a slick setup.
Thanks,
Steve
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06-30-2012, 04:11 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,141
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Both have there pros and cons. Flexiride arms are shorter, so they will move your wheel back a bit. You can get a 4 bolt on your torflex. Check out both there websites and look for information here.
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06-30-2012, 05:16 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1983 13 ft Scamp
Posts: 3,082
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I had a 1983 Scamp and replaced the axle with a 22 1/2 degree down angle it was just a bit high I think a 10 degree would be just fine.
new axle 22 1/2
old axle
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06-30-2012, 06:56 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: Harvey
Trailer: '84 Scamp 13' & 2001 Casita 17' Spirit Deluxe
Arkansas
Posts: 322
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My '85 Scamp 13 also was riding very low, no flex left in the torsion arms. Trent Fisher at Scamp Trailers told me that my trailer should have left the factory with 22.5* down angle but if so it means the torsion arm stubs had 'turned' about 40* in the axle tube 'cause they were at more'n 10* up when I brought it home. Can't imagine them 'turning' that much in the tube so I suspect they probably were originally 10 or 22.5* up. The arms had also lost enough 'lift' that the tires had been making contact with the wheel wells. I also had 4 lug wheels that weren't in greatest shape so when I ordered the new axle I went for the 5 on 4.5 & added 7" brakes. I chose the Dexter #9 torflex 2200# de-rated to 2K, with the 'high profile' side mount bracket option, again 'cause I wanted more height. I'm very pleased with the way the trailer now rides & the superior ground clearance. I also stayed with the 'leading arm' configuration as I didn't want to contend with the bother of re-locating the axle to use a trailing arm since Dexter said the brakes would work just as well with the leading arm.
Before/after pix - several inches difference
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06-30-2012, 09:12 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harvey
I chose the Dexter #9 torflex 2200# de-rated to 2K
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The Dexter engineer I spoke with did not recommend that since we always tow our trailers "loaded", unlike a utility trailer that gets towed empty more than 1/2 the time. Consider the bounce and shock factor.
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06-30-2012, 10:39 AM
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#8
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Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 49
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I've decided to go with the Flexiride. Buying a new axle should be a one time thing, and if I don't get it right with the Torflex, then the trailer stance would drive me nuts. I'll like being able to adjust the height with the Flexiride.
Thanks for posting the pics of your rides with your axle settings.
Steve
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06-30-2012, 10:58 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,141
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Double check your #'s for the arm length. You are concerned where the spindle ends up forward and back in the wheel well. A shorter arm going the recommended 24 down will move your tire back some in the wheel well. Maybe contact Jean-L, I seem to remember he put a flexride on his boler American. It should not be that much different.
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06-30-2012, 11:12 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: Dylan
Trailer: 2001 Scamp 13'
British Columbia
Posts: 798
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevewolverton
I've decided to go with the Flexiride. Buying a new axle should be a one time thing, and if I don't get it right with the Torflex, then the trailer stance would drive me nuts. I'll like being able to adjust the height with the Flexiride.
Thanks for posting the pics of your rides with your axle settings.
Steve
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Had I known I could have gotten a compatible axle with height adjustment good chance I'd have done that!
And I was SO pleased with my new axle until reading this. :|
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06-30-2012, 01:32 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,141
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There are differences Dylan. I've replaced both of mine with Dexter. I'm still pleased with mine.
You have a huge amount of adjustment in Dexters by tinkering with the mount height, brackets or not and angles. You can also get a bit of ride height change through the rubbering. One just has to understand and play with the numbers and choices in their charts.
The Flexirides change 6 degrees every notch.
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07-02-2012, 02:46 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: john
Trailer: scamp 13
Michigan
Posts: 1,318
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this is so exciting,,,i have a new 20012 scamp,,,, and i can't wait till i have had mine long enough and have camped in it enough times to need a new axel,,,imagine the adventures an axel that needs replacing has seen? would be cool to hear those stories.
so while you biting the bullet so to speak to buy a new axel...stop for one minute and reflect on the miles and happy times that wore out axel represents,,,,almost makes you want to give it a decent burial.
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07-02-2012, 03:02 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,141
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I think someone with a band saw should cut through the rubber on a dead axle and post it so everyone knows what happens inside. It would be like giving your body to science, but in this case it would be the engineers. Us!
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07-02-2012, 04:09 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
Posts: 8,527
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roy in TO
9TF22 = Dexter #9 Torflex @ 2200 lbs
Torflex recommends 10 degree down
Older trailers were up because of the leading arm. A 10 degree is essentially 0 loaded.
break=brake to me too
how many bolts on your rims?
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Sorry Roy, but my trailing arm 2004 came with a 22.5 up angle. Older trailers with leading arms started with the axle already higher in the frame.
I discussed this the other day with Scamp while visiting and suggested that the 13's should go to a zero angle on the trailing arm since so many are now sold with lots of options and most have tanks and plumbing underneath. That suggestion is being considered.
If I ever replace my axle it will be a 3500# axle, derated to 2500# with a zero angle and 10" brakes.
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07-03-2012, 05:06 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
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Just to hijack the thread, are you (that is, the original poster) the Steve Wolverton of Puffin fame?
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07-03-2012, 06:11 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Name: john
Trailer: scamp 13
Michigan
Posts: 1,318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roy in TO
I think someone with a band saw should cut through the rubber on a dead axle and post it so everyone knows what happens inside. It would be like giving your body to science, but in this case it would be the engineers. Us!
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pretty sure all that happens is the rubber weakens and sags so unless it was multi colored rubber it wouldn't look like much.
my questionis this though,,,new high performance specs are to use urethane bushings in things like sway bars, control arms ...
wonder if urethane would outlast rubber in these suspensions?
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07-03-2012, 07:00 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Name: Harvey
Trailer: '84 Scamp 13' & 2001 Casita 17' Spirit Deluxe
Arkansas
Posts: 322
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Gibbens
Just to hijack the thread, are you (that is, the original poster) the Steve Wolverton of Puffin fame?
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I've kinda wondered about that too Andrew. Last time I saw Steve & The Puffin was at LCG-II in 2007 I think. Unless my memory fails (not unlikely ) Steve at that time was either thinking of or had sold The Puffin & was considering another build??
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07-03-2012, 11:12 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by floyd
Sorry Roy, but my trailing arm 2004 came with a 22.5 up angle...
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Sorry Floyd, my response was with respect to the OP's initial question of deciphering a short form order and stating what Dexter reccommends.
Each person needs to determine what best suits their needs.
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07-03-2012, 11:39 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john warren
pretty sure all that happens is the rubber weakens and sags so unless it was multi colored rubber it wouldn't look like much.
my questionis this though,,,new high performance specs are to use urethane bushings in things like sway bars, control arms ...
wonder if urethane would outlast rubber in these suspensions?
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The rubber compresses and loses it's elasticity. There are pictures posted but the photographs could better show exactly what happens. The deformation is permanent.
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07-03-2012, 10:22 PM
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#20
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Junior Member
Name: Evan
Trailer: 1983 13' Scamp
Oregon
Posts: 14
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I just sent an email asking for the specs for my '84 13' axle and Kent said 22.5" down. Must have been a typo in your email from him.
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