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Old 10-30-2020, 06:48 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Paul O. View Post
Thank you for amplifying my point. However, if there is a law that prohibits disposal of *uncontaminated* distilled water, I might have a problem with it.
Paul, if you purchase a gallon of distilled water at Walmart and pour it out onto the ground, that is not prohibited. If you mix it with pesticide to apply to landscape plants, and have an unused quantity you dump on the ground, you may be in violation. I will assume that you use common sense, and if my assumption is correct, you should have no reason to have a problem with anything.
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Old 10-30-2020, 09:44 PM   #22
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Carl, I think that all that we are batting around is the distinction between water that is chemically H2O and "water" that might be a water solution of many soluble substances. We both seem to buy into using common sense. Cheers!
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Old 11-04-2020, 12:07 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by biker View Post
Hi,


Curious is anyone runs a dehumidifier in their trailer during the off-season?


If yes, would you provide details such as brand/model, how long you run it each day, and any additional information which may be useful on this topic?


Thank you!
Definitely a must!
I have a very small trailer so I use:



ALROCKET Dehumidifier 35 Ounce Small Dehumidifier for 2100 Cubic Feet 260 Square Foot Portable and Compact Quiet for Home
Sold by: YETHOUTEC CA
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Old 11-04-2020, 05:52 PM   #24
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Using dehumidifier during off season

We have been using a dehumidifier for years with good results. Our 5th wheel is in Florida during the summer. We have a Keystone 70 pint dehumidifier. We put it on the island and run a hose down the kitchen sink drain. We Saran Wrap the hose and sink drain so no bugs can come up from the tank. I put nylon net over the outside outlet. We let the water drip onto the ground. Leave the gally (gray) tank open. We have it on a timer to run continuous for 4 hours at night, when it's cooler, between 10:00 & 2:00, with the fan on high. We point the dehumidifier to blow up the stairs to the bedroom and have a small fan pointed in the other direction to the back of the trailer. The slides are all in, so there's not much area to dehumidify. That set up maintains 70%. To little humidity is not good for all the wood furniture and cabinets. We have a an extension cord with the timer on the end of it. We plug in a multiplier so we can plug the dehumidifier, fan and a light on a cord that we put in the window facing a neighbors house. So they know when it runs and weather or not it's on schedule. We get our power from a cord run in through the floor so we don't have the power on the whole trailer.
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Old 11-04-2020, 06:43 PM   #25
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Humidifier Recall - 5 million units

Take care using older humidifiers as they have caused many hundreds of home fires. The news media has not emphasized this widespread safety hazard. There is some reporting that newer model year humidifiers continue to have overheating / fire risk.
https://evergreenhomeenergy.com/2020...a-fire-hazard/
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Old 11-04-2020, 07:35 PM   #26
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no matter which version of powered dehumidifier you choose they do not work at low temperatures. Read the manual carefully before you make a purchase so that you know for sure if it will work under the temperature situation that is inside of our RV during the off season.

Do not just rely on answers in the forum. Many times people are well meaning but of course only you know the specifics of your situation and many times the person who is asking has no idea what information they need to be stating as the whole subject they are asking about is brand new to them. Plus some of the people responding are not truly familiar with the products, often they might just be repeating what they see posted and it is not always accurate information because of course they don't own everything or every model of a product category.

READ THE MANUAL BEFORE YOU BUY!!!!
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Old 11-04-2020, 10:09 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by k corbin View Post
no matter which version of powered dehumidifier you choose they do not work at low temperatures. Read the manual carefully before you make a purchase so that you know for sure if it will work under the temperature situation that is inside of our RV during the off season.

Do not just rely on answers in the forum. Many times people are well meaning but of course only you know the specifics of your situation and many times the person who is asking has no idea what information they need to be stating as the whole subject they are asking about is brand new to them. Plus some of the people responding are not truly familiar with the products, often they might just be repeating what they see posted and it is not always accurate information because of course they don't own everything or every model of a product category.

READ THE MANUAL BEFORE YOU BUY!!!!
That is totally true. With a compressor dehumidifier the ideal operating temperature is 60° F or above. As temperatures lower, the coils can freeze, resulting in a block of ice and potentially damaging the dehumidifier. Some compressor dehumidifiers have a heating element to prevent freeze-up, with the claim that it will down to the 38°-40° F range. A Peltier type dehumidifier will function down to these temperatures without a heating element. Typically, the ideal humidity level is 40%-50% RH, which doesn’t dry out wood structures and does not result in damp air that condenses on surfaces. One key thing to remember, however, is that cold air will not hold the same moisture content as warm air. A trailer stored in locations where freezing temperatures are the norm may not require dehumidification. Conversely, one stored in a desert environment might benefit from humidification (adding moisture). An analysis of the geographic storage location and its “normal” weather conditions should be considered before purchasing a dehumidifier (they are not inexpensive). For me, it is an easy decision. Florida wintertime temperatures (at least where I live) rarely get low enough where freeze-up is a concern, and winter humidity is often 75% or higher. Damp Rid would not be effective here, it would be saturated in no time.
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Old 11-05-2020, 01:34 AM   #28
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I have never used a dehumidifier in my RVs in Seattle when I am not actively occupying them. But I do keep a roof vent open just enough for an air exchange without letting the rain come in. You must have an air exchange or some way of killing mold spores otherwise it can create a terrarium effect with an ever increasing concentration of mold spores. Air exchange is the most important factor, it is not solely all about the humidity level.
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Old 11-05-2020, 07:28 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CPW View Post
... With a compressor dehumidifier the ideal operating temperature is 60° F or above. ...
Thats a good post with good info. I might add two things. The cold weather dehu's include those made for crawlspaces. But those are usually larger capacity. And they are expensive. The one I had in my prior home's crawlspace was about US $1,000. But with a semi-sealed crawlspace it kept the humidity below 60%... no mold!

Also, humidity is relative.. hence the full and correct term is relative humidity . But its not the relative humidity that counts, .. its the dew point. Dewpoint is the temperature to which air must cool to become saturated. It is saturated air that will produce condensation and lead to moisture problems. Note that the dew point can be much different on the surface of a metal object that is exposed to colder outside air then it might be in the free air nearby. Here is a good article to explain this:
https://www.forbes.com/sites/brianbr...h=548b892c330c
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Old 11-05-2020, 09:12 AM   #30
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I'm on the Wet Coast and use a 'Stor-dry' (for boats) on the floor and a cup of 'dri z air' on the top shelf in the corner. Also cupboards open and cushions on edge, and make sure everything is clean. So far so good!
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Old 11-05-2020, 11:11 AM   #31
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We live in the wet PNW.....our Casita stays outside all year. When I winterize.....I empty all tanks....blow out the lines....open all cabinet/fridge doors....open the roof vent about an inch and place a Davis marine dehumidifier on the floor. Been using this product for years in this trailer and our previous trailer. No water to empty....keeps moisture away and keeps our interior dry. Now...before anyone starts to go negative and say these are no better than having a light bulb in your trailer....please save your comments. I can tell you these work and work well. They've been using them on boats for years. They are a little pricey but...ours has been used every year for the last 15 years. They cost only pennies to run but you do need electricity. Good luck.

https://www.amazon.com/AMRD-1458-Dav.../dp/B00NZJ7Z4C
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Old 11-05-2020, 04:23 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by gordon2 View Post
Also, humidity is relative.. hence the full and correct term is relative humidity . But its not the relative humidity that counts, .. its the dew point. Dewpoint is the temperature to which air must cool to become saturated. It is saturated air that will produce condensation and lead to moisture problems. Note that the dew point can be much different on the surface of a metal object that is exposed to colder outside air.....
Also, very good points. To further clarify, relative humidity (RH) is the percentage of moisture that air holds in relation (relative) to the maximum amount (100%) of moisture it can hold at a given temperature before water starts dripping off of surfaces. Dew point is the temperature at which the moisture in the air will condense on surfaces. That’s why condensation is seen on windows exposed to colder outside temperatures before you will see it on insulated walls.
Heating humid air does not remove humidity. It just raises the temperature of the air higher in relation to the dew point, lowering the relative humidity (warm air can hold more moisture) but it really does not remove the moisture that is present in the air.
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Old 11-05-2020, 06:35 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by jerrybob View Post
... a Davis marine dehumidifier on the floor. ... No water to empty....keeps moisture away and keeps our interior dry. ...
I seriously question if that is dehumidifier or just a very expensive heater. And as CPW explained so well, heated air can hold more water vapor without it condensating out. Heating the air (alone) can prevent moisture problems, but that is not the same as reducing the water vapor in the air. In fact the description says this:
The damp air is heated to the point moisture is held in suspension (above dew point)
But will the metal objects that get cold from the outside also be heated enough to prevent condensation?

EDIT: Sorry.. I just reread and saw that you did not want comments. Well, before you comment in reply to my comment.. try a light blub
Quote:
Originally Posted by CPW View Post
Also, very good points. To further clarify, relative humidity (RH) is the percentage of moisture that air holds in relation (relative) to the maximum amount (100%) of moisture it can hold at a given temperature before water starts dripping off of surfaces. Dew point is the temperature at which the moisture in the air will condense on surfaces. That’s why condensation is seen on windows exposed to colder outside temperatures before you will see it on insulated walls.
Heating humid air does not remove humidity. It just raises the temperature of the air higher in relation to the dew point, lowering the relative humidity (warm air can hold more moisture) but it really does not remove the moisture that is present in the air.
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Old 11-05-2020, 06:47 PM   #34
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No water to empty...

I know you don't want to discuss, but where then is the water that it has removed?

I tossed my Davis "dehumidifier".
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Old 11-06-2020, 11:33 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by gordon2 View Post
I seriously question if that is dehumidifier or just a very expensive heater. And as CPW explained so well, heated air can hold more water vapor without it condensating out. Heating the air (alone) can prevent moisture problems, but that is not the same as reducing the water vapor in the air. In fact the description says this:
The damp air is heated to the point moisture is held in suspension (above dew point)
But will the metal objects that get cold from the outside also be heated enough to prevent condensation?

EDIT: Sorry.. I just reread and saw that you did not want comments. Well, before you comment in reply to my comment.. try a light blub


Heard it all before on these forums.....no argument from me....don't care what you call it....I can just tell you....been using the same unit for years in two different trailers.....we have no moisture....I don't have to empty water and the unit works really well for us. Whatever works for others is fine with me......just sharing my experience for a moisture free trailer. Life is good.
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Old 11-06-2020, 11:41 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo View Post
I know you don't want to discuss, but where then is the water that it has removed?

I tossed my Davis "dehumidifier".

Don't know...don't care.....I can just tell you....our trailer sits outside in an area that gets 80 to 100 inches of rain yearly.....I have used the unit for years.....I don't have any moisture inside the trailer....it works for us....sorry it didn't work for you. Maybe it's magic? Maybe my wife goes out once a week and wipes down the interior but I doubt it. Another mystery of life.
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Old 11-06-2020, 11:50 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by jerrybob View Post
. Maybe it's magic? Maybe my wife goes out once a week and wipes down the interior but I doubt it. Another mystery of life.
..
No magic.. no mystery.. just science.mm Heating the air will raise the dew point and reduce condensation.
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Old 11-06-2020, 07:20 PM   #38
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Here is from the Amazon description:
  • Inexpensive and effective way to fight moisture problems, cold drafts, and corrosion. Place Air-Dryr on the floor in any damp, enclosed space and plug into a 110/120 volt outlet. As warmed air rises, cooler damp air is drawn in, where it too is heated. Air-Dryr costs no more to operate than the burning of a light bulb. A thermal cutoff turns the unit off should air flow be impeded.
  • Attractive, neutral beige housing made of polycarbonate for strength and durability Slim and stable
  • Can be placed out of the way in confined spaces Handles a high volume of air Designed to be left on 24 hours a day Safe to the touch
  • Safe for marine use No switch, fan, or thermostat; uses natural convection to circulate the air No components which cause sparking
The above does not say how much power it draws, but a comparable one does:
  • The Stor-Dry warm air circulator combats mold, mildew and odor in spaces up to 1000ft3
  • Gentle heat from quiet internal blower protects cabins, lockers, and closets
  • Corrosion resistant compact design perfect for damp areas
  • 120V AC Low power draw; 70 Watts
  • Plug in and use; no messy water reservoir to empty
No magic, it is just a heater. That's it. The warmed air with slightly more water content will leak out of the trailer or boat and be replaced with outside air that carries less water vapor, being cooler. Gordon nailed it. A light bulb would do it cheaper, but it would be dangerous, since it gets too hot.
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Old 11-06-2020, 07:26 PM   #39
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I’m with jerrybob on this. We use a Davis and a small heater and have for years. We live in “wetstern” Washington and have never had a moisture or mildew issue. Very commonly used in boats and wouldn’t be if they didn’t work.
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Old 11-08-2020, 10:55 AM   #40
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Yep....they work...they work well....no moisture....no mess.....ya gotta believe.....may your trailers remain dry.
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