Battery bypass switch - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-02-2012, 01:12 PM   #1
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Battery bypass switch

I have a 19' escape with a group 27 12v battery on a bypass switch.

The switch is under the dinette and I snapped the toggle off the switch. I was looking to replace it and looking for replacements I saw that there are switches with capacities from 20 amps to 1000 amps.

My question is: Will a 20amp switch work or should I go higher?

Thanks
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Old 06-02-2012, 03:00 PM   #2
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Remove the broken switch and find a replacement just like it.
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Old 06-02-2012, 03:04 PM   #3
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The broken switch should have an amperage rating marked on it. You will need to meet or exceed that rating.
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Old 06-02-2012, 03:27 PM   #4
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I pulled it and unfortunately the only marking on it is "made in Taiwan".

I was hoping someone here might might know what is needed.

Thanks
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Old 06-02-2012, 03:47 PM   #5
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Here is what I used for a battery switch:

Heavy Duty Battery Cutoff Switch

It is possible that you don't need one this heavy duty, but I'm not familiar with your trailer and what currents the switch has to handle.
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Old 06-02-2012, 04:09 PM   #6
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100 amp is the norm- see here
Battery Cut Off Switch: BatteryMart.com
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Old 06-02-2012, 04:18 PM   #7
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Autozone sells a 50 amp rated toggle. That's what I installed in my Casita and it's worked fine. I don't think you're ever going to need anything with that much current capacity but it can't hurt.
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Old 06-02-2012, 04:44 PM   #8
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Simply look at the size of the main fuse. It's a 20 Amp then you don't need a switch rated any higher. If it's a 30 Amp, same thing. You can use a higher rated switch but not a lower than the main fuse.
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Old 06-02-2012, 04:55 PM   #9
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Thanks for all the replies. I think I'll go with This one:


Heavy Duty Master Disconnect Switch: BatteryMart.com

Only because it looks like it might be hard to break...

Byron, your point about the fuse is good. I should have thought of that!
Thanks
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Old 06-02-2012, 05:10 PM   #10
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I'd like to post a word of caution here. When you disconnect the battery in your trailer for any reason, then some time later reconnect, via switch or removing batter, etc. I suggest you be careful doing so. When the battery is disconnected your propane detector is non-functional. Therefore it's a good idea to take a good smell inside the trailer before connecting the batter or plugging into shore power. Leave the propane tank valve closed until the propane detector is fully rest and functioning.

Just a couple of easy things to do that could prevent some major problems.

This isn't meant to scare anybody but simple to remind everybody that without battery power the propane detector in NOT functioning.
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Old 06-02-2012, 07:13 PM   #11
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Which do you have, a Bypass or cut off switch?
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Old 06-02-2012, 09:19 PM   #12
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Battery Switch & Propane Detector

Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
I'd like to post a word of caution here. When you disconnect the battery in your trailer for any reason, then some time later reconnect, via switch or removing batter, etc. I suggest you be careful doing so.
This isn't meant to scare anybody but simple to remind everybody that without battery power the propane detector in NOT functioning.
Are you sure???
In my trailer, with the battery in place, I can turn the battery cutoff switch to the off position and the propane detector still works. It is my understanding that this is part of the "code" that trailer builders must follow.

If the detector isn't powered with just the switch turned off, then I would think that it is wired incorrectly. YMMV.....
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Old 06-02-2012, 09:24 PM   #13
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It should still work if you are using shore power and your converter supplies 12VDC.
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Old 06-02-2012, 09:36 PM   #14
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Maybe mine is different but the detector works with or without shore power being hooked up so the converter really doesn't play a part in it other than keeping the battery charged.

I use my trailer on just the battery quite often and the detector is always operational. It is wired so that it is directly fed from the battery.
YMMV.....
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Old 06-02-2012, 09:36 PM   #15
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I wired mine so that the battery switch removes the battery from EVERYTHING so that I can (finally - maybe - perhaps - I hope!) stop running my battery to a zero charge state every time I come home and unhook. As it was the batt was still running the "profane" detector, the circuit boards in the fridge and various & sundry other stuff. A week or two and sure 'nuff - batt is dead again. I used the same race car battery disconnect switch that is featured in other posts in this thread (I had one laying around anyway).

Now its just part of my "pretrip" to turn the battery back on, and hit the monitor panel switch to see if I need to plug the converter in to recharge the batt before leaving


By the way - just in case I come down with the occasional bout of "OOOPs", the trailer breakaway switch is NOT disconnected by that switch!
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Old 06-03-2012, 06:53 AM   #16
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This a problem with used trailers that have been modified by prior owners. The intent of the the battery "disconnect" switch is just that, to disconnect the battery from the trailer. It is intended for periods on being out of use, so any detectors would not be relevant. While occupied, all detectors and the battery should be in use. Prior owners will change all this so each used trailer will have it's own peculiar set up.
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Old 06-03-2012, 08:24 AM   #17
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Why not just get Reace to send you a new one. Escape is still in business.

Oh to have the original manufacturer still in business and all the parts recent.
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Old 06-03-2012, 09:30 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darwin Maring View Post
It should still work if you are using shore power and your converter supplies 12VDC.
I'm assuming that the battery is disconnected from the 12 volt system for storage. There's no need to disconnect the battery when connected to shore power.

Jane.
The propane detector is powered by the 12 Volt system. Both disconnecting shore power and battery will disable the propane detector. I suppose there might be some propane detectors that are powered by disposable batteries. If that's the case they should be replaced at least once a year.
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Old 06-03-2012, 09:34 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BCDave View Post
I wired mine so that the battery switch removes the battery from EVERYTHING so that I can (finally - maybe - perhaps - I hope!) stop running my battery to a zero charge state every time I come home and unhook. As it was the batt was still running the "profane" detector, the circuit boards in the fridge and various & sundry other stuff. A week or two and sure 'nuff - batt is dead again. I used the same race car battery disconnect switch that is featured in other posts in this thread (I had one laying around anyway).

Now its just part of my "pretrip" to turn the battery back on, and hit the monitor panel switch to see if I need to plug the converter in to recharge the batt before leaving


By the way - just in case I come down with the occasional bout of "OOOPs", the trailer breakaway switch is NOT disconnected by that switch!

I turned off my converter. When at home the battery is connected to one of maintaining battery chargers. (Battery Minder, Battery tender, etc.)
The only thing running when I'm not using it is the propane detector.
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