|
06-02-2012, 01:12 PM
|
#1
|
Member
Name: K
Trailer: 2009 Escape 19
California
Posts: 43
|
Battery bypass switch
I have a 19' escape with a group 27 12v battery on a bypass switch.
The switch is under the dinette and I snapped the toggle off the switch. I was looking to replace it and looking for replacements I saw that there are switches with capacities from 20 amps to 1000 amps.
My question is: Will a 20amp switch work or should I go higher?
Thanks
__________________
Mike and Kimberly
Teen Boy #1 and Teen Boy #2
Monster and Brat (the dogs, not the boys)
|
|
|
06-02-2012, 03:00 PM
|
#2
|
Senior Member
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,640
|
Remove the broken switch and find a replacement just like it.
|
|
|
06-02-2012, 03:04 PM
|
#3
|
Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 5,112
|
The broken switch should have an amperage rating marked on it. You will need to meet or exceed that rating.
|
|
|
06-02-2012, 03:27 PM
|
#4
|
Member
Name: K
Trailer: 2009 Escape 19
California
Posts: 43
|
I pulled it and unfortunately the only marking on it is "made in Taiwan".
I was hoping someone here might might know what is needed.
Thanks
__________________
Mike and Kimberly
Teen Boy #1 and Teen Boy #2
Monster and Brat (the dogs, not the boys)
|
|
|
06-02-2012, 03:47 PM
|
#5
|
Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 5,112
|
Here is what I used for a battery switch:
Heavy Duty Battery Cutoff Switch
It is possible that you don't need one this heavy duty, but I'm not familiar with your trailer and what currents the switch has to handle.
|
|
|
06-02-2012, 04:09 PM
|
#6
|
Senior Member
Name: jim
Trailer: 2022 Escape19 pulled by 2014 Dodge Ram Hemi Sport
Pennsylvania
Posts: 6,710
|
|
|
|
06-02-2012, 04:18 PM
|
#7
|
Senior Member
Trailer: 1996 Casita Freedom Deluxe 17 ft
Posts: 454
|
Autozone sells a 50 amp rated toggle. That's what I installed in my Casita and it's worked fine. I don't think you're ever going to need anything with that much current capacity but it can't hurt.
|
|
|
06-02-2012, 04:44 PM
|
#8
|
Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 7,056
|
Simply look at the size of the main fuse. It's a 20 Amp then you don't need a switch rated any higher. If it's a 30 Amp, same thing. You can use a higher rated switch but not a lower than the main fuse.
__________________
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
|
|
|
06-02-2012, 04:55 PM
|
#9
|
Member
Name: K
Trailer: 2009 Escape 19
California
Posts: 43
|
Thanks for all the replies. I think I'll go with This one:
Heavy Duty Master Disconnect Switch: BatteryMart.com
Only because it looks like it might be hard to break...
Byron, your point about the fuse is good. I should have thought of that!
Thanks
__________________
Mike and Kimberly
Teen Boy #1 and Teen Boy #2
Monster and Brat (the dogs, not the boys)
|
|
|
06-02-2012, 05:10 PM
|
#10
|
Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 7,056
|
I'd like to post a word of caution here. When you disconnect the battery in your trailer for any reason, then some time later reconnect, via switch or removing batter, etc. I suggest you be careful doing so. When the battery is disconnected your propane detector is non-functional. Therefore it's a good idea to take a good smell inside the trailer before connecting the batter or plugging into shore power. Leave the propane tank valve closed until the propane detector is fully rest and functioning.
Just a couple of easy things to do that could prevent some major problems.
This isn't meant to scare anybody but simple to remind everybody that without battery power the propane detector in NOT functioning.
__________________
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
|
|
|
06-02-2012, 07:13 PM
|
#11
|
Senior Member
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,640
|
Which do you have, a Bypass or cut off switch?
|
|
|
06-02-2012, 09:19 PM
|
#12
|
Member
|
Battery Switch & Propane Detector
Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman
I'd like to post a word of caution here. When you disconnect the battery in your trailer for any reason, then some time later reconnect, via switch or removing batter, etc. I suggest you be careful doing so.
This isn't meant to scare anybody but simple to remind everybody that without battery power the propane detector in NOT functioning.
|
Are you sure???
In my trailer, with the battery in place, I can turn the battery cutoff switch to the off position and the propane detector still works. It is my understanding that this is part of the "code" that trailer builders must follow.
If the detector isn't powered with just the switch turned off, then I would think that it is wired incorrectly. YMMV.....
|
|
|
06-02-2012, 09:24 PM
|
#13
|
Senior Member
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,640
|
It should still work if you are using shore power and your converter supplies 12VDC.
|
|
|
06-02-2012, 09:36 PM
|
#14
|
Member
|
Maybe mine is different but the detector works with or without shore power being hooked up so the converter really doesn't play a part in it other than keeping the battery charged.
I use my trailer on just the battery quite often and the detector is always operational. It is wired so that it is directly fed from the battery.
YMMV.....
|
|
|
06-02-2012, 09:36 PM
|
#15
|
Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: ,Bigfoot 25 foot plus Surfside 14 foot
British Columbia
Posts: 1,148
|
I wired mine so that the battery switch removes the battery from EVERYTHING so that I can (finally - maybe - perhaps - I hope!) stop running my battery to a zero charge state every time I come home and unhook. As it was the batt was still running the "profane" detector, the circuit boards in the fridge and various & sundry other stuff. A week or two and sure 'nuff - batt is dead again. I used the same race car battery disconnect switch that is featured in other posts in this thread (I had one laying around anyway).
Now its just part of my "pretrip" to turn the battery back on, and hit the monitor panel switch to see if I need to plug the converter in to recharge the batt before leaving
By the way - just in case I come down with the occasional bout of "OOOPs", the trailer breakaway switch is NOT disconnected by that switch!
|
|
|
06-03-2012, 06:53 AM
|
#16
|
Senior Member
Name: jim
Trailer: 2022 Escape19 pulled by 2014 Dodge Ram Hemi Sport
Pennsylvania
Posts: 6,710
|
This a problem with used trailers that have been modified by prior owners. The intent of the the battery "disconnect" switch is just that, to disconnect the battery from the trailer. It is intended for periods on being out of use, so any detectors would not be relevant. While occupied, all detectors and the battery should be in use. Prior owners will change all this so each used trailer will have it's own peculiar set up.
|
|
|
06-03-2012, 08:24 AM
|
#17
|
Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,141
|
Why not just get Reace to send you a new one. Escape is still in business.
Oh to have the original manufacturer still in business and all the parts recent.
|
|
|
06-03-2012, 09:30 AM
|
#18
|
Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 7,056
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darwin Maring
It should still work if you are using shore power and your converter supplies 12VDC.
|
I'm assuming that the battery is disconnected from the 12 volt system for storage. There's no need to disconnect the battery when connected to shore power.
Jane.
The propane detector is powered by the 12 Volt system. Both disconnecting shore power and battery will disable the propane detector. I suppose there might be some propane detectors that are powered by disposable batteries. If that's the case they should be replaced at least once a year.
__________________
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
|
|
|
06-03-2012, 09:34 AM
|
#19
|
Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 7,056
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by BCDave
I wired mine so that the battery switch removes the battery from EVERYTHING so that I can (finally - maybe - perhaps - I hope!) stop running my battery to a zero charge state every time I come home and unhook. As it was the batt was still running the "profane" detector, the circuit boards in the fridge and various & sundry other stuff. A week or two and sure 'nuff - batt is dead again. I used the same race car battery disconnect switch that is featured in other posts in this thread (I had one laying around anyway).
Now its just part of my "pretrip" to turn the battery back on, and hit the monitor panel switch to see if I need to plug the converter in to recharge the batt before leaving
By the way - just in case I come down with the occasional bout of "OOOPs", the trailer breakaway switch is NOT disconnected by that switch!
|
I turned off my converter. When at home the battery is connected to one of maintaining battery chargers. (Battery Minder, Battery tender, etc.)
The only thing running when I'm not using it is the propane detector.
__________________
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
» Upcoming Events |
No events scheduled in the next 465 days.
|
|