Boler 13 kitchen base removal (with 3-way fridge). I'd love to hear any tips! - Fiberglass RV
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Old 08-22-2010, 06:50 PM   #1
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Question Boler 13 kitchen base removal (with 3-way fridge). I'd love to hear any tips!

Fellow Bolerites,

I would like to remove the kitchen base cabinet from my Boler (not permanently - just to do a few things and then put it back), but I am a bit daunted and unsure where to start. Especially because of the 3-way refrigerator.

I did a few searches and only came up with photos that were basically captioned "There, everything is out now!" and showed an empty Boler, plus one thread wherein a fellow (nearly) resorted to hammer and pick to get his refrigerator out and did not really get any step-by-step suggestions.

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ler-25365.html

I do feel like I read something a long while ago (before I was contemplating this), but I can't find it again.

So... specific questions:

1) Does the refrigerator have to come out at all in order to remove the counter base unit? (I think the answer is "yes" to this one.)

2) How does one get the refrigerator out? I just know there must be hidden fasteners! My refrigerator does work, and I want to put it back, so I don't want to just hack it out of there.

3) I don't expect this to be quite as involved, but how about the furnace?(Suburban GT6-3A) (in need of burner assembly if anyone has one for sale).

If it weren't for the refrigerator, I don't think I'd have a problem in taking the kitchen base unit out. I know about drilling out the rivets and I think I can figure out disconnecting the gas, electrical, and water.

Thanks in advance for any advice, links to advice, or other help :thanx:

Raya
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Old 08-22-2010, 07:38 PM   #2
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I will be removing my 3 way fridge, too, so if you want to include how to disconnect gas/electrical/battery I will carefully be following this thread myself!

Thanks!
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Old 08-22-2010, 08:28 PM   #3
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I took the 3-way refrigerator out of my burro and the only fasteners it had were a few in the front flange. I removed them, un plugged the plug, disconnected the 12 volt wiring in the back and removed the gas line and pulled it straight out the front hole. There is probably a trim piece hiding the screws in the front of your refrigerator, just need to pop it off to show the screws. Pretty simple really.
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Old 08-22-2010, 08:30 PM   #4
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Hi Vickie,

Although they are similar, I'm not sure the Perris Pacer base cabinet would be the same as the Boler's. I'm hoping for some Boler-specific info.

As far as disconnecting gas/electrical/battery, I would say to first shut off the gas bottle and then burn out any remaining propane in the system. Then disconnect the fittings (will probably require spanners). For electrical, similarly, unplug the camper and disconnect the cable clamps from the battery, so you do not have an energized system, and then simply disconnect (or cut, if they are not re-usable) the connections. It helps to make photos and sketches of anything you want to put back.

Raya
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Old 08-22-2010, 08:32 PM   #5
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Hi Mark,

Going by the thread I linked to, and looking at what I have, I think there might be more to it in a Boler. I can already see that there is more to it than a few connectors in a front flange (would that it be so simple!)

Oh, and I should add that I'm not sure I even have to remove the 'fridge. I suspect I do, but perhaps not. I don't have any desire to have the 'fridge out, unless it has to be removed in order to remove the kitchen base cabinet (my actual goal here).

Any Bolerites who have gone before me?

Thanks,
Raya
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Old 08-23-2010, 10:30 AM   #6
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It was so many years ago when I did mine the memory is kind of blurry. Mine has the Dometic fridge and from what I can recall it was fairly easy to take out. There is the air baffle that had to be unscrewed from the case of the fridge and it was a tight fit getting to them. There were also screws in the bottom back plate where the fridge instructions are. Then there was the gas line to unscrew and the electric wires which we cut and replaced with connectors.

I don't recall any front screws.

I have a different heater but the same idea as the fridge applies to it. Heaters can be really hard to get out because the vent corrodes to the heater making them hard/impossible to separate. We thought someone had welded our together!

The cabinet was riveted to the walls and screwed to the floor. The sink, stove top, and the faucet had to be disconnected also.

What are you repairing that needs the cabinet removed? Removing it is a lot of work!
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Old 08-23-2010, 12:52 PM   #7
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Hi Liz, and thanks! Well, I don't really *have* to remove it, it's just that my compulsive side wants to get in there and look things over. And I have had the thought in mind that I may tab the cabinets in place (eliminating rivets/fasteners).

But I'm in information-gathering mode right now, and maybe I will decide that things are just fine as they are! There isn't really anything *wrong* - the refrigerator works, it's actually clean, nothing leaks, and... well.... maybe I'm talking myself out of it here

I do appreciate the fridge info. I didn't see any fasteners in front, and then after I read that other fellow's thread I was a little bit... gaaah!

I'll see if anyone else has removal tales and then maybe I will decide to leave well enough alone

Raya
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Old 08-24-2010, 06:04 AM   #8
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My fridge stopped working and I was told to take it out and turn it upside down over night. After disconnecting the propane plumbing from the rear I removed the cutlery drawer and found that the top of the fridge was glassed to the sides and back. [I suspect to keep gasses from the interior] I was able to reach inside and cut these pieces with a dremmel tool and then drilled out the rivets and removed the trim from the face. The glass on the top and the trim pieces were all that held the fridge in place but it was a tight fit and had to do a lot of wiggling to get the thing out. In doing all this I had to demolish the shelb brackets and totally reconstruct the the hangers.
Incidentally, inverting the fridge actually worked. For a while at least. During a 9,500km trip, across the prairies and back, this summer it quit again and will now become another boat anchor. I think that i will convert the space into shelving for canned goods or something. I know that removal this time will be a lot easier.
Replaceing the fridge was another lesson. The fit was so tight at the sides that to get enough leverage, I had to lay on my back and push it into the opening with my feet, Shoes off of course and wife shaking her head.
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Old 08-24-2010, 07:45 PM   #9
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james,

If I remember correctly, you posted in the other fellow's thread and said something like "I just looked and mine is glassed in; hope I don't ever have to remove it..."

Sure did sound like a typical boat project!

Thanks for the info :thanx:

Raya
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Old 08-24-2010, 10:49 PM   #10
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Isn't the first rule of owning anything, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it?"
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Old 08-25-2010, 12:27 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger C H View Post
Isn't the first rule of owning anything, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it?"
Roger: I do sometimes take things apart to maintain or improve them before they break

Anyway, just considering. That's part of the fun of owning my own camper
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Old 08-25-2010, 12:55 PM   #12
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Hi Raya,

As you know, I have a Boler very similar to yours, with the original fridge and kitchen cupboard assembly in it. My thought is that you must remove the fridge in order to remove the kitchen base cabinet assembly, because the fridge sits on it at the front. Also, I believe that there are some screws fastening the front of the fridge to the front face of the cabinet all the way around, at least if you have the same fridge as me.

I removed the fridge and furnace last winter, as well as the sink for renovations this year. I can’t remember the whole thing, but I do recall that the fridge was held down to the trailer by a long metal strap that started on the floor on one side, went up over the top, and down to the floor on the other side. On both ends, it has bolts welded on to the strap. The bolts go through the floor and are fastened with a nut and washer underneath the trailer. The strap holds the fridge down by tightening the bolts under the trailer, and is not otherwise attached to the fridge.

So, in order to remove the fridge, you would have to unfasten the bolts underneath the trailer, which was easy to do after I used penetrating oil on them since they appeared to have never been removed since 1974. The bolts can be easily seen from underneath the trailer, if you have them.

There were also several screws inside the cupboard which attached a large sheet metal skirt, the purpose of which appears to be to form a wall to the outside so that cold air and fumes do not get into the trailer from the outside fridge vent. This was screwed onto the fridge at the top, and also the left side floor (looking at it from inside the trailer). It was sealed with plumber’s putty between the sheet metal and the top of the fridge. I had to remove the kitchen drawer beneath the stovetop to get at this. I did not have to remove the stovetop in order to remove the fridge.

Finally, the fridge on mine is a very tight fit, and required some contortions to take it out, and more but different contortions to put it back in. I was able to do it with one person without difficulty as to weight. It was removed from inside the trailer, since the front mounting flange on the fridge was larger than the opening in the cabinet.

On mine, the furnace is also attached to the cabinet face at the front as well, but furnace removal is very straightforward.

Hope that helps.
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Old 08-25-2010, 02:43 PM   #13
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Thanks, Rick! Very helpful Nice to have a "sister Boler" report in (in another thread Rick and I determined that our Bolers were made at the same plant and are fairly close siblings).

Raya
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Old 09-10-2010, 05:59 PM   #14
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Alright, I'm baaaack

I have started removal operations. I decided to start with the furnace. I got the front grille off, and removed the four long screws that go in from the front and hold the furnace onto the front of the base cabinet. This seems to be all of the fasteners. But, surprise, surprise.... it isn't coming out.

I can pull the bottom out an inch or so, and from that I can see that the furnace end of the vent pipe is also wiggling the part of the vent pipe that goes to the exhaust on the outside wall. Even though they are clearly two separate pipes (furnace part goes inside of exhaust part).

Things aren't very rusty in there, but I guess they have rusted/stuck together. I can't get them apart from the outside either (tried that next).



It seems like a hard area to get any leverage. Both the front of the kitchen base, and the outer shell of the camper are too flexible to really pry on. Does anyone have any tips for separating the two sections of pipe, and/or getting the furnace out?

Thank you!

Raya
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Old 09-10-2010, 08:17 PM   #15
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Ours had no fasteners holding the two pipes together, just friction. We had already removed the sink, so being able to hit at the furnace from behind did the trick. It took a mallet, a lot of noise, and stopping after a few hits to pull from the front.
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Old 09-10-2010, 08:23 PM   #16
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Aha! I was planning to leave the sink in place but... I may have to re-think that. Tapping on the furnace from behind (okay, banging on it) is a good idea.

Funny but I was just looking at your "demo" photos and thinking about sending you a PM. Thanks for piping in

Raya
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Old 09-13-2010, 01:45 PM   #17
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Hi Raya,

The furnace pipes were also stuck on my furnace, which is an old Wagion Master 6000 gravity type. I released them (there were 2, one concentric within the outer one) by banging on the pipe near the exhaust vent with a rubber hammer (not hard enough to dent it). When the furnace came off, one of the pipes was stuck to the exhaust vent, and one to the furnace body. It was just rust holding it together, no fasteners. I also took my sink out to make the whole thing easier to get at.

I wonder if your furnace body is catching on the temperature sensor that is attached to the controller with a thin metal capillary tube? It often hangs around the front of the furnace and can get in the way.

Hope that helps,
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Old 09-13-2010, 03:52 PM   #18
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Told ya so........

That was the hardest part.
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Old 09-13-2010, 09:48 PM   #19
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Old 09-26-2010, 07:58 PM   #20
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Just thought I'd update because I did remove the furnace today (Suburban GT3). I did not need to remove the sink. I sprayed some corrosion inhibitor into the space between the two pipes to help them separate, and then tapped (firmly!) on the back of the furnace unit with a hammer.

The pipes started to separate right away, but I had to keep tapping for the whole 8" or so that the pipes overlapped. There was only light surface-type rust, but it was a friction fit that had been in place for 30+ years. I spent about ten minutes today getting it out (thanks to the info in this thread, I went in with a plan )

If I can only find a burner for it (have not been able to find one ), I will reinstall it (or a whole 'nother Suburban GT3, if anyone has one they would like to sell).

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