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06-06-2014, 06:47 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Name: Robert
Trailer: Trail-Mite 13"
Colorado
Posts: 21
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bunk bed support
Took today off to tackle the missing bunk bed support. Unless I hear otherwise, I am going to attach a 1x3 piece of pine that I cut to fit the curve today. Am I to use a 2 part glue? or just back it with rubber where it touches the fiberglass wall and screw it through the front? Do I use washers on the outside front? The bunk bed was apparently discarded years ago and the holes filled in (see pic), we had a new one made and I purchased 'chest hinges' as that is what appeared to be used in a Scamp we saw though we could not see the actual wall mount itself as it was covered at time of manufacturing.
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06-06-2014, 08:20 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
California
Posts: 1,889
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The Scamp factory bonds the wood straight to the fiberglass wall and then glasses it in to the wall making it all one piece. Then the whole wall carries the weight and stress. I don't think bolting a piece of wood through the wall is a good idea I think you need more support than that. Any moisture creeping behind the bolt is going to compromise the fastener to the wood joint. If you must do it this way at least use a piece of rot resistant hard wood. Its going to compromise the clean look of fiberglass with a row of bolts and large fender washers on the outside.
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06-06-2014, 09:40 AM
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#3
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Junior Member
Name: Robert
Trailer: Trail-Mite 13"
Colorado
Posts: 21
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Thanks Steve
I will wrap or have it wrapped with fiberglass next week but have to use it this weekend. Stopped by a fire truck and ambulance repair place and they said they use glue and then fiberglass.
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06-06-2014, 11:32 AM
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#4
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Junior Member
Name: Robert
Trailer: Trail-Mite 13"
Colorado
Posts: 21
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Chest hinge position
Anyone have a photo of the front bunk chest hinge, saw a scamp bunk 3 weeks ago and thought I would be able to remember how the hinge is attached but now that I have to screw or bolt mine in, I can't remember if it goes up or down it has so many side/angles?
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06-07-2014, 01:20 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Name: Robert
Trailer: Trail-Mite 13"
Colorado
Posts: 21
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Finished Bunk Bed
Completed the task of mounting the wood brace to the fiberglass body and getting the poles just right without cause for divorce.
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06-25-2014, 01:37 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: Linda
Trailer: Burro 13'. 1982
Montana
Posts: 286
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I'm scratching my head on this one. How exactly is this attached to the wall again? Regarding the poles, what are they attached to? What attaches the bunk to the poles? Does this upper bunk have wood on the bottom that rests on something attached to the wall and poles? I'm a little slow on the uptake so please 'splain.......thanks.
Maybe more pix would help. Can you take some lying on the bottom bunk facing up?
Sent from my iPad using Fiberglass RV
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06-25-2014, 02:02 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: Tim
Trailer: '88 Scamp 16, layout 4
North Florida
Posts: 1,547
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Looks like you have a happy little camper there on the upper bunk. My 10 year old daughter is happy as a clam and snug as a bug up there in our Scamp. She likes it up top because the dog can't cold-nose her during the night.
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06-25-2014, 03:02 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Name: Linda
Trailer: Burro 13'. 1982
Montana
Posts: 286
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It's so wierd.......the cushion I have that, I'm guessing, would be used for the top bunk has dent marks and holes so it was used at some point. But, there are no marks on the molded fiberglass that holds the bottom seat (and is the storage area) indicating anything was ever attached to support the upper bunk. 1982 Burro....double hull. I'm not sure about drilling thru both walls to be able to use washers for support.
Sent from my iPad using Fiberglass RV
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06-27-2014, 07:27 AM
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#9
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Junior Member
Name: Robert
Trailer: Trail-Mite 13"
Colorado
Posts: 21
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where there's Egg there's wine
Ended up using epoxy and screws. At some point you have to believe that simple is better. Used only 2 screws thru existing holes. Used a piece of flexible molding taped to the wall to hold the wood brace level and also to stop the epoxy from running down the wall. Used the plastic caps from roofing nails to put the screws thru as added protection to the outside wall.
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10-27-2020, 03:19 AM
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#10
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Junior Member
Name: John
Trailer: 1972 Trail Mite
California
Posts: 3
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What type of bolt or screws did you use for the wood bunk support? Also did you buy the upper bunk from Scamp website? Also I like what you did on the pipe railing.
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10-27-2020, 07:59 AM
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#11
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Junior Member
Name: Robert
Trailer: Trail-Mite 13"
Colorado
Posts: 21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John1747
What type of bolt or screws did you use for the wood bunk support? Also did you buy the upper bunk from Scamp website? Also I like what you did on the pipe railing.
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Any screw will do, as long as it is long enough to go through Most of the wood...the plastic washer from roofing nails is key to not damaging the exterior. It is literally just a brace. A really good Epoxy is the key.
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06-24-2021, 12:46 PM
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#12
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Junior Member
Name: becca
Trailer: 1972 trail mite
California
Posts: 18
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to John and rrank. I have heavy wood attached to bottom bunk in my trail mite is this normal? or is it suppose to be top bunk? thx for any answer !
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06-24-2021, 12:49 PM
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#13
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Junior Member
Name: becca
Trailer: 1972 trail mite
California
Posts: 18
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trail mite front bunk
to John and rrank. I have heavy wood attached to bottom bunk in my trail mite is this normal? or is it suppose to be top bunk? thx for any answer !
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06-24-2021, 08:24 PM
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#14
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Junior Member
Name: John
Trailer: 1972 Trail Mite
California
Posts: 3
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Does it have a metal swing attachment? Does it open up like if it was a top bunk? If so your suppose to have to metal bar attachments to secure the bunk as well. Hope this helps
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06-24-2021, 11:11 PM
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#15
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Junior Member
Name: becca
Trailer: 1972 trail mite
California
Posts: 18
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no hinge its a loose cushion with a heavy wood stuck to the bottom of it.
there is a small wood shelf under the window for the bunk
however no other cushion was in the trailer.
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06-25-2021, 02:12 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Name: Diane
Trailer: Scamp 13’
Wisconsin
Posts: 161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinkandi
no hinge its a loose cushion with a heavy wood stuck to the bottom of it.
there is a small wood shelf under the window for the bunk
however no other cushion was in the trailer.
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That sounds like the top bunk - a cushion just like bottom cushion, but with a sturdy wooden base. It would have originally been hinged to that narrow shelf on the front wall.
Maybe the original owner wore out the bottom cushion and decided to substitute the upper one.
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06-25-2021, 06:01 PM
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#17
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Junior Member
Name: becca
Trailer: 1972 trail mite
California
Posts: 18
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ok that makes the most sense, huge on ledge
ya dont think I'll put it back up. thxx!!
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11-07-2021, 03:23 PM
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#18
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Member
Name: Heather
Trailer: Trail Mite
Michigan
Posts: 89
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Anyone know if its possible to get that metal support rail? I have all of the rivet holes still.
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11-08-2021, 06:58 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
Posts: 12,087
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Here’s a detailed description of the Scamp bunk set-up. Scamp sells the support posts. Everything else is common hardware store stock. You’ll have to determine if your Trail Mite is the same. If the pictures don’t display (depends on your settings), click the attachment to view or click the little arrow to go to the original post.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon in AZ
The upper bunk platform consists of three pieces of 3/4" plywood, a main center piece and two small wings. The wings allow the platform to conform to the curve of the shell when lowered. It is pretty much the same size as the lower bench, so you could use it to make your template. The wings are attached with piano hinges facing the foam side. The foam is only 3" (versus 4" for the loose cushions) and is attached to the plywood with spray adhesive. A removable cover goes over the whole platform.
Attachment 90213
Attachment 90214
The front of the platform rests on a ledge under the front window. In an older trailer, it would be good to make sure the ledge is strong. Offset hinges attach the platform from the bottom.
Attachment 90215
The posts are painted steel, 7/8" outside diameter, 25-1/2" long. The loops are bent hardware staples welded to the post. The bent portion is about 22-1/2" from the bottom and catches a screw on the underside of the platform. The vertical position of the posts is even with the ends of the bunk ledge (the safety rail uprights just barely clear the ledge and hang down behind the backrest in the last photo).
Attachment 90217
Attachment 90218
The bottom of the post has a plastic cap and rests in a (shower curtain?) ring riveted to the bench. The inside diameter of the ring is 1".
Attachment 90219
Attachment 90220
I removed the caps on the tops of the posts and built a safety rail out of PVC.
Attachment 90221
Attachment 90222
All the parts- posts and safety rail- store on top of the ledge behind the backrest when the bunk is lowered for travel.
Attachment 90223
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04-29-2024, 11:12 PM
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#20
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Junior Member
Name: Em
Trailer: Boler
BC
Posts: 1
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Upper bunk support
How do you know the support is strong enough?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon in AZ
Here’s a detailed description of the Scamp bunk set-up. Scamp sells the support posts. Everything else is common hardware store stock. You’ll have to determine if your Trail Mite is the same. If the pictures don’t display (depends on your settings), click the attachment to view or click the little arrow to go to the original post.
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Tags
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boler 1300, bunk bed, burro, casita, egg camper, glue, scamp, screws, support, trailmite, trillium scamp fiberglass |
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