cabinet latches? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-08-2015, 10:13 PM   #1
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Name: Deb
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cabinet latches?

Hi everyone! I finally got my '84 Scamp redone and on the road for the first time. When I opened the door at my stop, I realized I have more work to do on the cabinets. Needless to say, things were everywhere! The hinges on the closet door actually lost the screws and the whole door came off. What do you use to help keep cabinets closed tightly? I am considering toddler latches of some kind but would like your input.
Thanks in advance!
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Old 06-08-2015, 10:37 PM   #2
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Things inside the cabinets banging against the door cause the problems. Stop the stuff from banging against the doors and no more problems. I have had my Scamp for 10 Years with close to 100,000 miles on it, some it over gravel washboard. I have plastic containers in the overhead cabinets to contain small items. Stuff in tight in the closet so it doesn't bang around. The refrigerator has refrigerator bars to keep stuff from banging into the door.
That slowing down has prevented stuff from cabinets from ending up on the floor and there's been zero damage to the doors or hardware.
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Old 06-09-2015, 03:00 AM   #3
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Went to these, so far so good.

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Old 06-09-2015, 09:52 AM   #4
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Yes, this is an issue with both old and new trailers. It's frustrating that stronger, more efficient locks don't come with the new trailers. I'm still looking for the solution I want to install with minimum drilling.

Take a look at this thread http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...hes-56105.html for some solutions others have come up with. You can do your own search on this forum. Simply go to the "Search" bar, drop down to the "Google Search" and enter the words cabinet latch. There you will find other's solutions/suggestions.

When we traveled in New Zealand in a "caravan" camper, similar to a VW bus, the cabinets had the push-in (lock) pull-out (unlock) knobs and they worked great. As for me, I would rather have a retro look to my cabinets or a hidden latch system.
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Old 06-09-2015, 11:42 AM   #5
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Thank you all! You have given me some nice options!
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Old 06-09-2015, 02:59 PM   #6
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I had an issue with the screws loosening and doors falling off with my Scamp. Screws don't hold well forever in partial board. I made new doors of wood, then reused the original catches, I've had no problems.
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Old 06-14-2015, 04:13 PM   #7
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Here's my solution to the 3 cabinet doors over the kitchen in my 13 Scamp.
The is felt on the back side so as not to scratch the doors.
Attached Thumbnails
kitchen cabinet lock #1.JPG   kitchen cabinet lock #2.JPG  

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Old 06-14-2015, 06:03 PM   #8
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Here is what I did: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...now-58881.html

Quick summary in pictures:


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Old 06-14-2015, 06:59 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joy A View Post
Here's my solution to the 3 cabinet doors over the kitchen in my 13 Scamp.
The is felt on the back side so as not to scratch the doors.
GREAT idea Joy for those that have knob pulls.
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Old 06-14-2015, 07:43 PM   #10
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Found them at Home Depot online. I confess to splurging a bit - but really like the look. Have yet to have one pop open on its own. Put them everywhere except for a couple magnet latched doors that so far have not opened up.

Deb - it looks like you are discovering there are a range of options for keeping things where they belong while rolling down the road. I think the bottom line is the sorts of roads you like to travel. Rough & bumpy calls for more strenuous solutions, such as Joy's.
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Old 06-15-2015, 11:39 PM   #11
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Thanks again everyone! I love all of the ideas. I have found that, as Dennis said, the screws don't hold in the particle board. I may have to replace doors eventually. My most recent "chick fix" was to drill all the way through the fiberglass to use a bolt through the hinges on the closet door. Still won't fix the problem of screws in particle board, but it is a start. Going on a test run this weekend. Stay tuned. I'll let you know how they worked.
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Old 06-16-2015, 01:47 AM   #12
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Trial and error is how it works
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Old 06-16-2015, 06:19 AM   #13
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I have a bungy cord covered in bunting flag that I use. A little hole drilled in either end to hook the bungy to. The bungy system was in place when I bought the trailer last year. I covered it in bunting flags to match my new decor. Click image for larger version

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Old 06-16-2015, 06:32 AM   #14
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I am just curious, as I have not finished my Trillium yet to try them out, but are most people using sprung cabinet hinges that hold tension on the cabinet door in the closed position? They even help close the door. Like these that I was going to get from Leevalley?
Standard Steel Door Hinges - Lee Valley Tools

Do I need some sort of secondary 'door latching' system as these are not enough?

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Old 06-16-2015, 08:29 AM   #15
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Stefan, the problem is that the screws that come with the hinges must be cut down for the size of the door or they will go through to the other side. You will still need something on the other side of the door to keep it closed. I am using bungy cord for some. The closet door is the biggest issue. I haven't found "hookable" spots for the cord.
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Old 06-16-2015, 09:37 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Durangodeb View Post
Thanks again everyone! I love all of the ideas. I have found that, as Dennis said, the screws don't hold in the particle board. I may have to replace doors eventually. My most recent "chick fix" was to drill all the way through the fiberglass to use a bolt through the hinges on the closet door. Still won't fix the problem of screws in particle board, but it is a start. Going on a test run this weekend. Stay tuned. I'll let you know how they worked.
As an alternative to building new doors, I have drilled out the screw holes and glued pieces of dowell that fit the diameter of the drilled holes, then use the original screws into the dowell. This is not ideal, because screws into the end grain of wood is only marginally better than screws into partial board. I purchase my dowells from a local wood supplier, so they are of higher quality and screws hold better than they do in dowells purchased from a craft store. A better solution is to buy a plug cutter. (I bought mine from Lee Valley). Then you can make your "dowells" with cross grain so the screws hold better. You have to decide if the more permanent solution is worth the additional expense.
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Old 06-16-2015, 10:02 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Durangodeb View Post
Stefan, the problem is that the screws that come with the hinges must be cut down for the size of the door or they will go through to the other side. You will still need something on the other side of the door to keep it closed. I am using bungy cord for some. The closet door is the biggest issue. I haven't found "hookable" spots for the cord.
If I get a chance I'll try to hot glue a rare earth magnet to the top and bottom of my old closet door and then temporarily tape a piece of steel to the inside of the cabinet (both of these things on the side away from the hinges) and see how that holds. Actually could maybe do it in a few spots on the way down and see if that, combined with the spring hinges, feels like it would have enough strength.

It might be a while as I am just starting to primer all my cabinets to do a color change.

Maybe you could tape some on and see if it works/helps. Know any one with some old computer hard drives. I love the magnets in there.


As far as the screws are concerned, I was thinking rivets. I usually put a small dab of epoxy in the hole and then use an appropriate sized aluminum rivet. Have never had those come loose on other projects. Never tried it on a trailer though.


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Old 06-16-2015, 12:46 PM   #18
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cabinet latches?

It's possible the problem is not the cabinets, but the axle on the trailer. The rubber in old torsion axles can become hardened and lose its spring. One test is to jack up the trailer on one side (on the frame near the wheel). Watch to see if the wheel drops as the frame rises. Little or no movement means a shot axle and a very rough ride.



I have never had anything come out of our cabinets (standard Scamp hardware). We installed stacking bins in the large closet:

Click image for larger version

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and small crates in the overhead cabinets:

Click image for larger version

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Doors remain closed and everything stays in place just fine.
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Old 06-16-2015, 01:12 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
I have never had anything come out of our cabinets (standard Scamp hardware). We installed stacking bins in the large closet:

and small crates in the overhead cabinets:

Everything stays in place just fine.
Good to hear. I would assume that the standard Scamp hardware has springs on the hinges? I know the original Trillium hardware in 1977 did not. Love the bins. Was thinking of something similar, when I get that far. Now I have primed white cabinets instead of yellow (colonial white).
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Old 06-16-2015, 01:18 PM   #20
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cabinet latches?

Nope. Scamp uses the cheapest hardware store hinges and friction roller latches. Very basic. When I first got my trailer (used) three years ago, the latch on the closet door was misaligned (from the factory, I presume) and wouldn't stay closed. I rotated the door 180 degrees and reinstalled the hardware and haven't had any trouble since.

BTW- the bins in the closet are from Big Lots. Perfect size, and they latch together for stability. Only $3.50 each.
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