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Old 09-08-2015, 06:15 AM   #21
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Some of the blow out plugs, my unknown brand being one, have baffles inside the connector end that accepts the compressor. There has been a discussion that if you have these inside the plug the amount of air is reduced significantly, possibly so much that using a 30-45 psi will not remove the necessary water.

Since my plug is plastic, I plan to use a drill to remove those baffles before putting to use this fall.
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Old 09-08-2015, 06:24 PM   #22
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Hi Darral thank you. That all makes sense. So I open the cold first and then the hot faucet after? And when I do this in outside, so I guess I'd want somebody standing at sink noticing when the water blowing out becomes minimal right?

Also, just like you said to leave drain plug in hot water tank, I assume I would close Petcock on fresh water tank too, after draining much of it first?

Finally should I return the black stem valve blow out plug and get the quick connect instead? I thought the black one would be easy...just put air in it like a tire valve stem. No?

Cheers!

Wendy


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Old 09-08-2015, 06:50 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger C H View Post

Try sailing where every line (rope to landlubbers) has a name.
Or sailing where every line is called a "sheet." (Very confusing to the lady of the house)
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Old 09-08-2015, 07:52 PM   #24
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There are a few different types of quick connects or couplers. For example all my compressors and air tools have the "A" type. Others are designated by a letter like "S" or "M". Don't exactly remember as I don't use them.
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Old 09-09-2015, 04:15 AM   #25
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Paul, this is the blow out plug I purchased. Is it similar to yours? I would have no idea how to remove baffles if it does, but would you please let us know how it goes for you?

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-Bras...-Plug/23529548


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Old 09-09-2015, 07:17 AM   #26
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I use a fitting that I put together myself that my compressor quick connect hose clips onto. Allows for me to go around the trailer and open/shut the various waterlines/valves at will.

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Old 09-09-2015, 03:45 PM   #27
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Yeah..you could open either just as long as they're opened, it doesnt matter in which order...or I've never done it in any certain order.

One thing good about a disconnect, you can attach the hose and not have to hold it on the adapter like airing up a bicyle. Obviously, you cant do both at one time- hold the air nozzle on the adapter and open the water faucets on the inside. But again, WATCH YOUR AIR PRESSURE. For me, I let the wife do the valve opening so I could stand outside and keep a watch on the gauges. Dont forget to drain your black/grey tanks when you're finished!

When I drain ANY of my tanks, I always make sure I close the drain valves. On the water heater, make sure the pressure relief valve is closed as well. I always open mine when I'm draining my tank to help the water run out faster.

Just as a final tip, you might want to browse over to Youtube and search for some clips on draining tanks, winterizing etc. I always do that when I'm tackling a new task.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CampyTime View Post
Hi Darral thank you. That all makes sense. So I open the cold first and then the hot faucet after? And when I do this in outside, so I guess I'd want somebody standing at sink noticing when the water blowing out becomes minimal right?

Also, just like you said to leave drain plug in hot water tank, I assume I would close Petcock on fresh water tank too, after draining much of it first?

Finally should I return the black stem valve blow out plug and get the quick connect instead? I thought the black one would be easy...just put air in it like a tire valve stem. No?

Cheers!

Wendy


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Old 09-11-2015, 02:26 PM   #28
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The Walmart model of plug in the photo "appears" to have a standard Schroeder valve under the valve cover. If so, that would restrict the air flow too much for proper pressure to remove the water from your lines. There is a special tool to remove valve stems, it might be easiest to stop at a tire store to have them remove the stem, it screws out.


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