Check this out NOT Poliglow...Time will tell..

[RogerDat]

Originally Posted by Roy in TO

TSP comes in powder and liquid forms. Cleaning once more with TSP and rinsing well before waxing would not do any harm. BKF and TSP work on different things.

I used both, BKF to clean stains and for it's mild (really mild) bleaching action. Really did a good job, especially on the black run down streaks.

BKF worked very well on the aluminum windows too. I wanted those frames clean before RMP went on around them so I would not have to be exposing RMP to frame cleaning products.

Followed with some TSP in a bucket with a big soft scrub brush to clean off oil and dirt, followed by a pressure wash rinse. TSP was used sort of like soap when washing the car.

[Perk]

I believe I posted this on the wrong thread so I am moving it from the Poli-Glow thread to here ... sorry guys.

Cleaning and shining my U_Haul
OK after reading a number of posts here on fiberglassRV, this weekend I washed the outside of my very neglected dirty and chalky 1985 VT. I started with Bar Keepers Friend which got some of the dirt, sap, bugs and bird dropping off and was not that easy to use. I then hit some of the serious stains and runs with a liquid stain and scuff remover and had some limited success. I also used a decal remover spray on the tape remains from the "for sale" sigh that had been attached when I bought the VT last month and on a old bumper sticker on the rear bumper.

I then FINALLY used a combination of TSP, Tide liquid laundry soap and Clorox. Now that really helped get things going and removed a lot more oxidation, chalk and grim off the VT. Sap melted and slowly ran down the side of the VT from the roof. A lot of black ran away from the windows. It was like magic how everything dissolved, came loose and the skin became cleaner. Sadly the skin has been neglected for such a long time I was not able to remove as much staining as I wanted to but the results were amazing.

I would suggest that anyone trying to do the same to possibly forgo the BKF or use it after the tri-combination. The TSP and BKF each work in different ways so both may have helped in the actual cleaning, it is just that the BKF was not as dramatic or quick.

The washing was was in the sun and it was about 100 degrees with high humidity for southern NM and was threatening rain in the early PM but didn't. I gave the washing about 5 hours overall.

I continuously made sure that none of the cleaning products dried on the fiberglass and repeatedly went back to rinse previously cleaned areas.

The next morning I made sure any dust and debris that was on the VT was removed and the VT was completely dry, I then applied at least 5 coats of ZEP Floor Finish Wet Look and I was astonished to the resulting shine. I even applied ZEP to the faded black bumper and it looked like I had repainted it. The stop light tail lens application resulted in no chalkiness and a clean glass look again. I am most pleased with the results!!!!

Here are a couple before and after images.

[camper407dm]

I also worked on my project this past weekend. after reading all of the posts and getting stuff lined up and the time to work on my 1985 13' Casita. I first made a bunch of phone calls trying to find the Red Max at Lowes. I called 5 stores in 2 states and only one had any and they only had step 1 and step 4. So I tried to find the Zep and the first and closest Lowes had it for $25 a gallon.

So I made a trip to Des Moines to get supplies. I live in SW Iowa about 1/2 way between Des Moines and Omaha, so either place is about the same drive.

so I get the gallon of Zep, bar keepers friend powder (can't find the liquid) and a few other things and head back home.

bright and early saturday morning I start on the exterior of the old Casita. I took off the spare tire cover and the spare tire looks ok, but it is flat. I get ready to hook it up to the truck and notice that the left tire is low so I swing by the gas station and long story short now have 2 new tires on the camper. I guess I needed them and would rather find out now than when I was on the interstate.

off to the car wash. This thing is really dirty, to the point that I can actually see white under the brown and dirt that is coming off. Lots of stains that I will have to work on with the bar keepers friend.

back home, I spent 5 hours scrubbing the whole thing and some spots up to 8 times and it looks better. I have to stop at 2 in the afternoon because I am exhausted and it is 100 degrees.

back to it again on Sunday morning at 7am. The first coat of Zep (MAKE SURE TO WEAR GLOVES very bad on the hands) and it looks pretty bad, cleaner but no shine. Coat number 2 a little better but can really tell where I start and stop. Coat 3 start to see a good shine. Coat number 4 everything evens out well and shines better than it had in 20 years.

I put on the spare tire and the new tire cover and cleaned things up.

I will post pictures tomorrow night, I don't have the correct cable tonight.

Looks good but now the back bumper needs painted, the wheels need cleaned and painted, the front draw bar needs cleaned and painted..... and a few of the light covers need replacing.

[Perk]

I understand your challenges in finding the #3 ZEP ... I called several Lowes and Home Depots in Tucson and a couple other towns before finding Zep #3 Wet Look in Las Cruces NM. I also used and recommend good rubber gloves during the chemical washing and ZEPing as the chemicals and ZEP can really do damage to the skin. I ZEPed the bumper and mine turned out better than I thought. I need to really work on my wheels as they have some rust and the trailer tongue needs cleaning and painting too. But I, as you, really feel good about having the trailer cleaned and shining! Congrats on your success. Waiting to see your before and after pictures.

Originally Posted by camper407dm

I also worked on my project this past weekend. after reading all of the posts and getting stuff lined up and the time to work on my 1985 13' Casita. I first made a bunch of phone calls trying to find the Red Max at Lowes. I called 5 stores in 2 states and only one had any and they only had step 1 and step 4. So I tried to find the Zep and the first and closest Lowes had it for $25 a gallon.

So I made a trip to Des Moines to get supplies. I live in SW Iowa about 1/2 way between Des Moines and Omaha, so either place is about the same drive.

so I get the gallon of Zep, bar keepers friend powder (can't find the liquid) and a few other things and head back home.

bright and early saturday morning I start on the exterior of the old Casita. I took off the spare tire cover and the spare tire looks ok, but it is flat. I get ready to hook it up to the truck and notice that the left tire is low so I swing by the gas station and long story short now have 2 new tires on the camper. I guess I needed them and would rather find out now than when I was on the interstate.

off to the car wash. This thing is really dirty, to the point that I can actually see white under the brown and dirt that is coming off. Lots of stains that I will have to work on with the bar keepers friend.

back home, I spent 5 hours scrubbing the whole thing and some spots up to 8 times and it looks better. I have to stop at 2 in the afternoon because I am exhausted and it is 100 degrees.

back to it again on Sunday morning at 7am. The first coat of Zep (MAKE SURE TO WEAR GLOVES very bad on the hands) and it looks pretty bad, cleaner but no shine. Coat number 2 a little better but can really tell where I start and stop. Coat 3 start to see a good shine. Coat number 4 everything evens out well and shines better than it had in 20 years.

I put on the spare tire and the new tire cover and cleaned things up.

I will post pictures tomorrow night, I don't have the correct cable tonight.

Looks good but now the back bumper needs painted, the wheels need cleaned and painted, the front draw bar needs cleaned and painted..... and a few of the light covers need replacing.

[Carol H]

I know there are lots of people that have had great results using Red Max but IMHO there seems to be a bit of information about using an acrylic floor finish product such as Red Max that has gotten lost in this lengthily thread that someone new to maintaining fiberglass may not be aware of. It may not actually be lost but simple the result of few people on this forum have using Red Max for long enough to be aware of this additional information.

A downside that I haven't seen mentioned here to often is found posted (off this list) by a good number of people who have using Red Max for more than a couple of years is that its an acrylic finish and as such it will need yearly reapplication to maintain & after 4 or 5 years of multi coating acrylic will become hard and brittle and as such is likely to crack and peel and will have to be totally removed before reapplying. Some folks have also reported that they have seen some premature peeling take place in areas around rock chips which will require a reapplication.

As has already been suggested here its also not a product that body shops or boat shops like to see used on an RV or boat that is going to be repainted anytime soon.

If you do a Google and read through many of the posts off this list by people with a number of years of experience using Red Max (and its new name) on fiberglass boats & on RV's suggest Red Max should be only used as a last resort product. It IMHO appears that those with lots of experience with the product seem to feel that its well worth trying to rejuvenation a fiberglass boat or RV with a good compound and wax before resorting to the Red Max treatment. Most seem to agree that on an older trailer that requires constant compounding and waxing to keep a shine Red Max works well but that its not a product those who have been using it for many years would use on newer fiberglass or on fiberglass that the original finish is still in good condition as they feel a good compound and wax will give the same results.

I have no intreast in debating the pros and cons of using the product and the above information is simply for sharing purposes. I would encourage folks considering using an acrylic floor finish product on fiberglass to read up on it on and off of this forum to determine if its the right product for their situation.

[cpaharley2008]

I agree Carol,
ReddMaxx is for older units, I doubt that you can even apply it to a newer unit because is will not stick. The Barkeepers application prepares the surface, like sanding prior to applying ReddMaxx. But I would never apply either of these items to a perfectly new or normal fiberglass surface. Wax is best. Similar to an automotive finish, the older ones need a rubbing compound, whereas the newer ones just need wax.

[Carol H]

Jim your comparison to using Barkeepers on fiberglass to sanding a wood floor prior to refinishing is a good one. My post was actually the result of a conversation I had at a recent meet with someone with a 5 year old trailer who was about to head off to purchase Barkeepers as a result of advise they had received at the meet on removing some streaks from their trailer. They didnt realize that there were are much gentler products they could use to achieve the same result.

[Perk]

CarolH,

Very good and helpful insight and cautionary notes. No need to worry about any debate here as your and others experiences are good to know so a person can make the best decision and choice possible for themselves. I appreciate and thank you for offering the information in such a nice way. I think my particular U-Haul VT falls into your exception for use category. My VT appears to not had a ounce of finish attention since it rolled off the factory floor in May of 1985 and is in bad need of a new paint job and clear coating as the original finish was left in a distant camp ground a decade or two ago. The ZEP will afford me time to attend to other needed details before the expense and luxury of a paint job but helps prevent continued deterioration of the skin.

Again thank you for sharing your cautionary thoughts.

Perk

Originally Posted by Carol H

I know there are lots of people that have had great results using Red Max but IMHO there seems to be a bit of information about using an acrylic floor finish product such as Red Max that has gotten lost in this lengthily thread that someone new to maintaining fiberglass may not be aware of. It may not actually be lost but simple the result of few people on this forum have using Red Max for long enough to be aware of this additional information.

A downside that I haven't seen mentioned here to often is found posted (off this list) by a good number of people who have using Red Max for more than a couple of years is that its an acrylic finish and as such it will need yearly reapplication to maintain & after 4 or 5 years of multi coating acrylic will become hard and brittle and as such is likely to crack and peel and will have to be totally removed before reapplying. Some folks have also reported that they have seen some premature peeling take place in areas around rock chips which will require a reapplication.

As has already been suggested here its also not a product that body shops or boat shops like to see used on an RV or boat that is going to be repainted anytime soon.

If you do a Google and read through many of the posts off this list by people with a number of years of experience using Red Max (and its new name) on fiberglass boats & on RV's suggest Red Max should be only used as a last resort product. It IMHO appears that those with lots of experience with the product seem to feel that its well worth trying to rejuvenation a fiberglass boat or RV with a good compound and wax before resorting to the Red Max treatment. Most seem to agree that on an older trailer that requires constant compounding and waxing to keep a shine Red Max works well but that its not a product those who have been using it for many years would use on newer fiberglass or on fiberglass that the original finish is still in good condition as they feel a good compound and wax will give the same results.

I have no intreast in debating the pros and cons of using the product and the above information is simply for sharing purposes. I would encourage folks considering using an acrylic floor finish product on fiberglass to read up on it on and off of this forum to determine if its the right product for their situation.

[rabbit]

I intend to respect the "gag rule" imposed by Carol. Day 2 post-application testimonials clearly are not the whole story. However, in the immortal words of Randy Bishop, "time will tell." I hope those of us who took the plunge on "floor wax" will report candidly about the condition and appearance of this coating 2, 3, 4 yrs. down the line and I trust we will be allowed to do so.

jack

[Carol H]

No gag rule imposed Jack. I really do hope that you and others that have used the product do come back and share what's happening 4 or 5 years down the road as thats that part that I am not sure we clearly have recorded here for reference. Suspect its due to no one here has actually been using it for 5 years or more yet.

[camper407dm]

I agree, I don't think that I would use Zep on a new camper but look what it did to my 27 year old Casita

woooHOOOooooo

[camper407dm]

and 2 more

[rabbit]

Shinola De luxe!! Yeh, those testimonials can really hook you and a great many of us have swallowed the bait.

jack (still happy with the adhesion, dirt and water shedding capability, and color cast of floor wax 13 months after application)

[Deb & Chuck]

Originally Posted by Randy Bishop

I had read several post on here about Poliglow and bought some off e-bay for around $70.00 with shipping. I put 4 coats on one of my campers and I thought it really turn out great..then I found a post on a boat site where a guy said that Poliglow was the exact same thing as a floor finish..So after I bought this Trillium 1300 I'm working on I went to the local Lowes and bought a gallon jug of RED MAX PRO floor finish..The guy at the store told me it was used a lot on church floors and it really could take alot of abuse...I used the applicator I had from the Poliglow and after a really good cleaning with Bar Keepers Friend ( Dave the Trillium King told me about this product) I put 4 coats of the floor finish on..The 2 campers have been setting in the hot summer sun now for 2 1/2 months and I really think the one with the floor finish looks the best..I don't know how the products will standup over time but I will keep everyone up dated..I do know that mud and bird droppings wash off with a spray of the hose, it seams nothing really sticks to either of them..The poliglow says you need to put 1 refresher coat once a year and thats what I plan to do on the other one also..So now for pictures and I hope I can get them posted...Here are 3 of the 1300 with floor finish and the jug of finish I used..I'll post pictures of the one with poliglow in the next reply..I'm a chicken picker so it will take me a little time..

I did a trailer in Red Max Pro. Removing a run today made me real mad I used Mineral Spirits to removed the floor wax. It was a big job. Going back to Poli-Glow which is easier to remove with the cleaner.
Chuck

[gail w.]

WOW WOW...Photos look fantastic!! Thanks for sharing

[Thee Jimbo]

Originally Posted by Deb & Chuck

I did a trailer in Red Max Pro. Removing a run today made me real mad I used Mineral Spirits to removed the floor wax. It was a big job. Going back to Poli-Glow which is easier to remove with the cleaner.
Chuck

Thanks for the info on the PItA removal process. Has anyone tried ammonia of designated floor stripper produducs!???

[Thee Jimbo]

Originally Posted by camper407dm

and 2 more

Amazing before and after photos. I like that you shot from the same angles. Very nicely done

[Roy in TO]

Originally Posted by Deb & Chuck

I did a trailer in Red Max Pro. Removing a run today made me real mad I used Mineral Spirits to removed the floor wax. It was a big job. Going back to Poli-Glow which is easier to remove with the cleaner.
Chuck

How long was the run there? Fixing it when it happened would be a lot easier.
Why use mineral spirits when the waxes have strippers in their systems?
What cleaner were you using with Poli-Glow?

[rabbit]

Red Max Pro is/was a 3 part system with a primer, finish, and remover. I assume ZEP has somethilng similar. No question 12% ammonia from the hardware (most will have to order it) is strong enuf to cut Red Max. Best wear gloves as considerable exposure to ammonia will dry and burn your hands, unless of course you didn't wear them while applying the wax, in which case you might want to use the ammonia to remove your shiny manicure. As to the relative insolubility (w/ resulting durability) of the finish (including the runs), the floor waxes wouldn't be of much more interest than a buffing wax if they washed off in the first rainstorm. As to the problem of the relative porosity of gelcoat (which can be seen on many an old trailer with a healthy crop of algae and moss), the ability of the liquid waxes to flat out and seal is also a positive benefit imo. The necessity of deep cleaning and light abrasion of the surface prior to application (Barkeeper's Friend. Simple Green, Tri-sodium phosphate) has been emphasized by many who have gone this route and can't be over-emphasized. I believe many older trailers exhibit two quite different qualities of deterioration of the surface: very chalky and porous gelcoat on the roof along with vertical areas lower down which retain a less degraded surface quality (smooth to the touch, retaining some reflectivity of light). Removal of the chalked and presumably very porous gelcoat (the result is the rinse water running white into the storm sewer) as well as a light, uniform cutdown of areas which retain some surface cohesion and integrity are both a vital part of prep as they would also be for a sprayed paint finish. The removal of loose material and the slight "etching" of better preserved areas is not the end of the work. Obviously the removal of surface contaminants (buffing waxes which may remain in protected areas) is vital. And the removal or depigmentation of mineral stains with bleach or the weapon of your choice also contributes to a uniform appearance thru the transparent wax. Clean, clean and clean again.

The possible present and future negatives contingent on this treatment have been made clear by other posters to the thread. The view that this is a "last resort" for an inexpensive surface restoration of older trailers has been mentioned many times by the original poster and subsequently by many to whom the treatment appears to look good, reduce maintenance, and evidence the promise of at least medium term durability exposed to the elements. Nothing is forever as those with expensive repaints will also discover in the fullness of time. Whatever paths your restoration efforts take you down, may you have immediate success and enduring satisfaction.

jack

[Thomas G.]

Originally Posted by rabbit

..........
The possible present and future negatives contingent on this treatment have been made clear by other posters to the thread. ..............jack

Well said. It's floor wax, not holy water. I'm guessing that if one uses it on the floor there may be subsequent maintenance required, too.