Check this out NOT Poliglow...Time will tell..

[Fred Patterson]

KellyT,
I found the Barkeeper Friend at Lowe's in the aisle with all the other cleaning products i.e. Tide, Lysol, etc. I had to look two or three times as they only had a few cans and were hard to see. You can also find it a Dollar stores if you have those in your town.
Fred

[Fred Patterson]

Originally Posted by Rick Brown

Fred
That looks awesome and although I posted my results 3 years ago, it was Randy who gave floor finish a new life on the forum. I hope Poli Glow is not to upset with the results. I just want to add again make sure your egg is clean of old wax and dirt. The old wax will effect the wax bonding to your trailer. It is great to see all the before and after pictures. You can be proud of your "new eggs".

Sorry to Randy for not giving him proper credit. So, to Randy and Rick and whomever else is responsible for getting out the word, I appreciate learning about this product. You're exactly right about getting off all dirt, debris, wax, etc., the prep is the hardest part but more than worth it!
Fred

[Tom Trostel]

By the way, Bar Keepers Friend will removed the dull gray oxidized layer from old aluminum trim. It's not a lot of work, and it leaves a nice shine.

[Randy Bishop]

Fred yours turned out great!!! One thing I found out this weekend after a camping trip down on the river, the road down was really BAD muddy and got the camper muddy so on the way home stopped by the car wash and blew it off, then I saw how bad the tires was and sprayed them down with the TIRE/ENGINE CLEANER the stuff that will bring the black off the tires, well after I got home I could tell it also took off the shine around the wheel wells and around the spare on the back that I also sprayed This camper was the one with Poli-Glow on it so now I'm going to carry it back to the car wash and see if it will totally strip it off and go back with the ProMax...If it works this may take care of any future problems that might/ or even if it starts peeling as some has suggested...If it keeps the camper looking as good as it does for 3 to 4 years and all I have to do is spray it off at the carwash and reapply IT"S still the greatest thing since slice bread...Just remember everyone I wouldn't hit it with the tire cleaner at the car wash I'll let everyone know my results with the stripping..... RANDY

[Fred Patterson]

Moral of the story - clean thoroughly, scrub, coat with RedMax3 - then leave the trailer in the garage!

Fred

[Sandra L]

Originally Posted by Fred Patterson

Rick,

I have followed this thread with great interest because my 2001 Casita was purchased from an individual who had stored it in a lot in the hot Alabama sun. I have had the trailer for about four years and in all that time I have rubbed and scrubbed and waxed and 303ed, etc. As a result, the trailer looked "pretty good" but I was disappointed that I could never bring it anywhere near that new look. After reading this thread, I decided to go ahead and take the risk of having the first yellow Casita (although I don't really think it will yellow based on other's reports). Anyway, yesterday I got out and scrubbed the trailer down with Barkeepers Friend, waited for everything to dry and put on the Red Max. By the time I got to the fourth coat, I was grinning from ear to ear. As you have stated, I don't know what the future will be, but for now I am elated with the results. Thanks for posting your discovery and for giving directions on how you got it done.

Fred

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WOW!!!

[Jayfor]

Several years ago I used poly-glow on my Big Foot with great success. However, in the past couple of weeks following this thread I decided to try Red Max on my 5% molded fiberglass front and back, and I think it actually has done a better job.

See pictures. I put four coats on my aluminum roof to see how it would work. Hopefully it will work. I'll let you know. Keith

[Fred Patterson]

That looks great! I'm anxious to see what kind of longevity we can get from this treatment.
Fred

[Rob and Linda]

Does one have to remove all the wax from the fiberglas surface before applying either of these 'finishes?'

Thanks!

Rob

[Fred Patterson]

The short answer is yes. If you look at the posts earlier, the best method is to use Barkeepers friend and a scrub pad which removes all wax, streaks, stains, etc. I found that to be the best bet.
Fred

[Randy Bishop]

When I first tried the poli-glow I had a few places that had wax and silcone residue still on the camper mostly around a couple of windows and a few hard to get to places..The refinisher beaded up just like water does on wax and I had to go back and scrub those areas to remove all left over residue before I reapplied the finish..So make sure you remove all wax, silcone and stains...................

[mcbrew]

I bought my '84 Scamp 13 less than a week ago. Between yesterday and today, I used Barkeepers Friend and a few scotchbrite pads to get the filth off, then washed it with Dawn dish soap to remove any wax or residue, and have put four coats of RedMax on it so far. In ten minutes, I will add the fifth and final coat. It looks great already. It was absolutely flat white before I started... now it has a nice reflection to it. It is not perfect, but that is my fault plus 26 years in the weather.

I'll post pics when I get finished (and have good light). Thanks everyone for the info!

Oh, by the way... my Lowes keeps the RedMax stripper near the flooring section, but the RedMax finish is where the cleaning supplies are sold.

[mcbrew]

Well, here it is... I didn't have much light left, but you can see a little of the shine where the wall meets the roof.

[Mark G.]

Originally Posted by mcbrew

Well, here it is... I didn't have much light left, but you can see a little of the shine where the wall meets the roof.

Looking good. Now go get a can of spray paint and some tape for $8 and paint that bumper.

Many over think easy things like this. Tape off the trailer in the area being painted, scotchbrite the bumper, then spray.

Should take about 10 minutes.

[mcbrew]

Mark, I'm only over thinking it a little... I just got finished masking off the front and back, then painting it with a rust reformer (which is flat black). Tomorrow, I will finish it off with some Rustoleum gloss black.

It has been raining for 14 hours straight... and the dinette cushions and carpet were wet. I think it is my fault, as I started peeling caulk from the rear window and didn't know it was going to rain overnight. I have the Scamp in my garage now with a dehumidifier running in it (inside the Scamp with the windows and door shut).

Other projects: I am rewiring the trailer lights, as they were a but twitchy and have been spliced a few times. I am painting the metal support for the kitchen cabinets white like the new Scamps. I also need to order a few things: The roof/escape hatch is cracked, new tail lights (they have been replaced with smaller ones... poorly, and I need a new stabilizer jack for the rear (one is missing).

[Donna D.]

Humm, those windows look like they've been pulled and replaced incorrectly. No way to fix them now. These windows should not have screws from the outside IN. The clamp ring on the inside holds the window to the body. This is conjecture, but perhaps there was a leak and the prior owner(s) took the trailer to a "professional" shop and this is what was done. It still looks like a nice trailer and I'm sure it's going to give you lots of memories!

[mcbrew]

Donna, my windows do have screws in the inside. They have rivets on the outside. Maybe they are a different brand?

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by mcbrew

Donna, my windows do have screws in the inside. They have rivets on the outside. Maybe they are a different brand?

Mark I have an 82 and I think Donna may be right as I just had a closer look at my rear window and a few things hit me about how different it looks from yours. First mine as Donna suggested has no screws or rivets showing on the outside frame. Second if looking at the outside of the trailer from the back, the screen and half of the window that slides is on the left side of mine - yours looks like its on the right side? The half of the window that slides on mine actually slides to the inside - your looks to slide to the outside? Or the picture just looks that way. Makes me think that maybe it was taken out and put back in backwards and upside down.

[mcbrew]

Interesting... The open part of the window is on the door side of the Scamp. I think the window is putnin correctly, but might just be a different model. I say this because 1) the screen is on the inside like it should be and 2) because I notices drain slots on the outside at the bottom of the frame where water can drain out. If it were in upside down, they slots would be at the top, which wouldn't make sense, right? Again, there are screws around the inside frame as well as the rivets on the outside.

When I get home, I will check to see if the is any manufacturer info on the windows. Anybody know what was originally in there?

[Raya]

I thought the screen would be on the outside of a slider window Otherwise, wouldn't you have to move the screen to get to the sliding part to open and close it?

I would imagine that when the window is closed, the screen is on the outside; then when you slide the opening part so the window is open, then you can touch the screen (but it is still "on the outside" of the window).