Cleaning out water tank?

[Glenn Baglo]

How do you get rid of the vinegar taste?

[rdickens]

Same as the instructions for my coffee pot.
Just a thorough flushing with fresh water after the cleaning. .???

After the de-winterization, I haven't the opportunity to use the fresh water tank yet.
..... just the city water inlet last time out.

Ray


Sent from my iPad using Fiberglass RV

[The Minimalist]

"Or just put in a bunch of vodka in the tank and drive around a bunch!

Who has the olives? "

And then, who cares? We don't need no stinkin' clean water.................

[Pineapple Man]

Originally Posted by Bob Miller

Food Grade Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) is very, very expensive when compared to common bleach and really won't do any better a job.


In some venues you can't buy that strength over-the-counter and have to have a permit. It's a primary ingredient (oxidizer) in some rocket fuels and is useful when making homemade explosives. Stick with the bleach....


I used to have to buy it from a source in Texas and there was all kinds of paperwork and permits required for the strength I was buying for cleaning cooling systems in direct-to-plate imagers.

Well Bob, I was just bringing up a product that I used to use and like, because it did an excellent job with NO odor, and took so very little to work, it wasn't cost prohibitive. But I agree, not for a novice.

[Borrego Dave]

Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman

I think it's not necessary to ever dry out the tanks. In my opinion if the fresh water tank is always full there's no room for stuff to grow.
If you look at city reservoirs you'll see they never empty them unless there's been some know contaminate introduced into them.
When empty there's always the chance of collecting some moisture and growing algae. Algae needs air to grow.

Fresh water RV tanks are a piece of cake. After working 30 year for a major water district I can tell you how our 20+ storage tanks, above and below ground were maintained. Every two to three years they were emptied, cleaned and checked for any maintenance repair. All our raw incoming water went through our treatment plant, even if was treated water. At the end of the filtering plant chlorine was added as per the chemists tests before it was introduced into the system. BTW, chlorine dissipates fairly quickly as it travels down the line and sunlight makes it even faster. Our testing and filtration was always over and above federal standards too.
I add a cup of bleach, a hot mix once a year to my full tank, run the water through the faucets, let it sit for a day and flush it once. Been doing that for over 30 years with many RV's with no problems and also use it for coffee. I do have to add that I always leave the house with a full fresh tank and a few one gallon jugs. Good water here at the house . I also keep the tank full when parked and I'm in the desert with 120+ summer temps and have had no problems with anything growing in the tank. I also have a deck plate added just to check on things and have had no problems with something "growing" in the tank.
From reading posts it seems that most are worried about "bad tasting" water from camping spots or leaving water in the tank. Totally understand that and can't change where you have to get water from on a trip. Just telling everyone that using chorine/bleach to sanitize your tank is all you need to do. Easy, quick and cheap.
Anyway, that's my two cents worth from my career of serving a few million customers with good water.

[theresa p]

Dave---your experience is good enough for me! Thanks. We haven't ever used our water tank. But this summer we intend to give it a go when doing some boondocking so I will gratefully heed your advice.

[rdickens]

Dave,

Since you appear to be from California, I'm guessing that you may have
no need for the RV antifreeze winterization process that we mid-westerners
have to go through? (either in your RV tanks or your professional tanks?)

Do you know if a bleach solution will also dissolve/remove any residual RV
antifreeze in an RV fresh water tank?

I had heard so many stories about bad tasting water from bacteria-free
(bleach-sanitized?) tanks, that I figured to use the cleaning strength
white vinegar to dissolve/remove any antifreeze residue and then, maybe
closer to the end of the camping season, use the bleach solution to more
completely sanitize the tank before winterization with RV antifreeze.

Does that sound like a workable solution to you or is it just plain
overkill?

Ray

[Bob Miller]

Also in agreement with Dave, Chlorine Bleach is the way to go. Anything else is at ones own risk and peril. Here's another link from those that should know:https://www.clorox.com/dr-laundry/bl...g-water-tanks/

[Bob Miller]

Originally Posted by Pineapple Man

Well Bob, I was just bringing up a product that I used to use and like, because it did an excellent job with NO odor, and took so very little to work, it wasn't cost prohibitive. But I agree, not for a novice.

I can't find any documentation as to strength of H2O2 to use for disinfecting water tanks. Can you post any information you have found and what strength and dilution rates you are using.

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by Borrego Dave

Fresh water RV tanks are a piece of cake. After working 30 year for a major water district I can tell you how our 20+ storage tanks, above and below ground were maintained. Every two to three years they were emptied, cleaned and checked for any maintenance repair. All our raw incoming water went through our treatment plant, even if was treated water. At the end of the filtering plant chlorine was added as per the chemists tests before it was introduced into the system. BTW, chlorine dissipates fairly quickly as it travels down the line and sunlight makes it even faster. Our testing and filtration was always over and above federal standards too.
I add a cup of bleach, a hot mix once a year to my full tank, run the water through the faucets, let it sit for a day and flush it once. Been doing that for over 30 years with many RV's with no problems and also use it for coffee. I do have to add that I always leave the house with a full fresh tank and a few one gallon jugs. Good water here at the house . I also keep the tank full when parked and I'm in the desert with 120+ summer temps and have had no problems with anything growing in the tank. I also have a deck plate added just to check on things and have had no problems with something "growing" in the tank.
From reading posts it seems that most are worried about "bad tasting" water from camping spots or leaving water in the tank. Totally understand that and can't change where you have to get water from on a trip. Just telling everyone that using chorine/bleach to sanitize your tank is all you need to do. Easy, quick and cheap.
Anyway, that's my two cents worth from my career of serving a few million customers with good water.

I have been looking for and not been able to find in chlorine bleach. Are you sure the bleach you're using has chlorine in it?

[Bob Miller]

As mentioned in the following link, common bleach does not contain any "Free Chlorine". I believe that the term "Chlorine Bleach" refers to any bleaching product containing Sodium Hypochlorite.


Bleach referred to as "Non-Chlorine" seems to use Hydrogen Peroxide as an active ingredient.
https://www.clorox.com/dr-laundry/ch...lorine-bleach/


Soooo... Look for "Sodium Hypochlorite" on the label which, by the way, is the active ingredient in almost all those expensive tank sanitizers sold for 10x the price at places like Camping World.

[Glenn Baglo]

This is from US government emergency preparedness site. http://water.epa.gov/drink/emerprep/...sinfection.cfm

If you can't boil water, you can disinfect it using household bleach. Bleach will kill some, but not all, types of disease-causing organisms that may be in the water. If the water is cloudy, filter it through clean cloths or allow it to settle, and draw off the clear water for disinfection. Add 1⁄8 teaspoon (or 8 drops) of regular, unscented, liquid household bleach for each gallon of water, stir it well and let it stand for 30 minutes before you use it. Store disinfected water in clean containers with covers.

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by rdickens

Dave,

Since you appear to be from California, I'm guessing that you may have
no need for the RV antifreeze winterization process that we mid-westerners
have to go through? (either in your RV tanks or your professional tanks?)

Do you know if a bleach solution will also dissolve/remove any residual RV
antifreeze in an RV fresh water tank?

I had heard so many stories about bad tasting water from bacteria-free
(bleach-sanitized?) tanks, that I figured to use the cleaning strength
white vinegar to dissolve/remove any antifreeze residue and then, maybe
closer to the end of the camping season, use the bleach solution to more
completely sanitize the tank before winterization with RV antifreeze.

Does that sound like a workable solution to you or is it just plain
overkill?

Ray

Why would anybody put antifreeze in a fresh water tank. Mythology, I guess. The science of freezing water expanding seems to be ignored.
1. A small amount of water in the bottom of a plastic container isn't going to expand enough to cause any problems.
2. To freeze a 12 gallon or larger cube of water takes a whole lot of cold.

At times here in Oregon the weather will get well below freezing for a week or two. At those times I keep the tank almost full, and a space heater in the trailer. The inside of trailer stays above 40°F, the water tank and plumbing is inside. No problems.

Before the day of pink Cr...p water tanks were emptied and an air fitting of in the water system to blow the water out. Now that pink Cr...p has been invented it necessary to spend money for stuff and then try to get out of the system. The makers saw you coming.

[Glenn Baglo]

I drain the fresh water tank.
Bypass the water heater.
Pump RV anti-freeze into the lines ( not the tanks ). It actually takes very little to fill the lines.
More antifreeze into traps.
Flush with fresh water in the spring. Have no issues with water taste.

I have air compressor and have used air, but it's easier and I have more confidence in the anti-freeze method.

[rdickens]

Byron,

To answer your question -

I put a little bit (1/2 gallon?) of RV antifreeze into the fresh water tank in order to draw it into
and through the electric 12v pump and be able to fill the water lines between the pump and
and the faucet. After it came out of the faucet, it went down the drain lines and into the
gray water tank.

I was then able to drain most, but not all, of the anti-freeze from the fresh water tank and
the gray water tank.

The remaining task was to remove a small screen/filter from the city water inlet and push
a button to release most (but, sadly, not all) of the water from that higher-pressure city
water connection area.

This was my first winterization/de-winterization with this trailer. If there is a better/easier
way, I would certainly be interested in learning! I just didn't want to take apart any of the
non-leaking connections in order to protect the pump and the lines .... heavy sigh! 😞

BTW - The last re-winterization took place as we were leaving ScampCamp 2015 down in
Sebring, Fl. We were in a hurry to get out of there and try to get past the worst of winter
storm Octavia (which dumped 10-12 inches of snow into Memphis and St. Louis shortly
after we drove through.) During that final night and day of the trip home, we were in close
to single digit temperatures. 😥

Ray


Sent from my iPad using Fiberglass RV

[Glenn Baglo]

On my Escape, I run the pump for about 15 seconds after draining the fresh water tank. That clears pump and lines.
I use hand pump ( see post 34 ) to pump antifreeze though city water inlet. Wife, inside the trailer, opens taps one at a time until pink stuff comes out.

[Cathi]

[QUOTE=Glenn Baglo;511663]I drain the fresh water tank.
Bypass the water heater.
Pump RV anti-freeze into the lines ( not the tanks ). It actually takes very little to fill the lines.
More antifreeze into traps.
Flush with fresh water in the spring. Have no issues with water taste.

This is exactly what we do. Pumping through from city water keeps the toilet valve from freezing (which commonly happens.) No anti-freeze in fresh water tank. Very easy and fast.

[rdickens]

Sadly, we have no hand pump. Only the 12v electric. Maybe that is something I will want
to change someday soon? 😞
Ray


Sent from my iPad using Fiberglass RV

[Pineapple Man]

Originally Posted by Bob Miller

I can't find any documentation as to strength of H2O2 to use for disinfecting water tanks. Can you post any information you have found and what strength and dilution rates you are using.

I said when I "used to", past tense. Retired from dairy almost 15 yrs. ago.
Even though some other farmers still may, I am NOT trying to suggest it to other people. I just thought it was a good organic method.
Am sorry I ever posted it. I didn't realize it would be so controversial.

[Borrego Dave]

Originally Posted by rdickens

Dave,

Since you appear to be from California, I'm guessing that you may have
no need for the RV antifreeze winterization process that we mid-westerners
have to go through? (either in your RV tanks or your professional tanks?)

Do you know if a bleach solution will also dissolve/remove any residual RV
antifreeze in an RV fresh water tank?

I had heard so many stories about bad tasting water from bacteria-free
(bleach-sanitized?) tanks, that I figured to use the cleaning strength
white vinegar to dissolve/remove any antifreeze residue and then, maybe
closer to the end of the camping season, use the bleach solution to more
completely sanitize the tank before winterization with RV antifreeze.

Does that sound like a workable solution to you or is it just plain
overkill?

Ray

No winterization in my life....born in the Midwest, live in the desert and only want to see snow on TV . So, I really have no answer to the winter antifreeze you use. Sounds like your good to go with a flush from reading posts. Others that go through that would be a better source for that info. Yes I do think that would be overkill.
My only reason for posting was to tell everyone how it's done in a water district that has to answer and conform to State and Federal laws. A RV system is simple and to me it seemed that some folks were trying to over think it. That's not to say that someone may have a strange problem pop up....cause unknown. MMMMM, that sounds like a new post.