Condensation - Fiberglass RV
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Old 12-15-2005, 10:36 AM   #1
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Whatare good things to stop condensation short of turning the heat off. We do keep a window open at nite (a little).
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Old 12-15-2005, 10:48 AM   #2
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In order to get air movement, you need two openings. Either another window on a different wall, or open the roof vent a little. If air is going to come in it also has to have a way to escape.
Works for us!
Kurt & Ann K.
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Old 12-15-2005, 12:15 PM   #3
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Not breathing is NOT an option, but that would work....

Circulation does, as Kurt said. I have a little tiny baterry powered fan that runs, that helps with most of it.
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Old 12-15-2005, 04:43 PM   #4
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Thick curtains are supposed to help insulate the windows....I wouldn't know, I have socks that are thicker than the curtains in my Scamp. But it seems reasonable.

Pete Dumbleton has recommended putting a layer of a backpacker foam pad between the front window and gravel shield...if your trailer is so equipped. I did this on a camping trip the end of October and it helped cut the condensation on the front window tremendously.
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Old 12-15-2005, 05:36 PM   #5
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You did not say what you were heating the sacmp with. Condesation is horrible if you use a cat type heater for any period of time.
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Old 12-15-2005, 06:24 PM   #6
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We live where it's very humid, and were happy to find a product that helps keep the inside of our trailer dry. So far we've only used it when the trailer has been in storage (while parked outside), but I suspect it would help while you're camping too.


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The Eva-Dry mini dehumidifier is small (4 1/2 X 6 X 1 1/2 inches), is filled with dryrite crystals, and dries the air without using electricity. As the crystals absorb water, they change from a blue color to pink. When the crystals are pink (which means they are unable to absorb any more moisture) you remove the dehumidifier and plug it into an outlet elsewhere (where it will heat up and release the moisture it has absorbed - this usually takes overnight). Then unplug it and put it back in the trailer. We usually leave it there for a few weeks before needing to plug it in.

We originally found it at Real Goods, and later bought another one for the cab of our pickup at our local True Value Hardware store (it cost about $20). I hope this helps!

Jeanne
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Old 12-15-2005, 08:19 PM   #7
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Quote:
open the roof vent a little. If air is going to come in it also has to have a way to escape.
Works for us!
Kurt & Ann K.
I usually just crack open the roof vent a tiny bit when I am running the heater, except during heavy rain. My Fiber Stream has no added insulation (like the origonal Bolers), and I experience no condensation this way. However, when it is cold AND raining hard, I get condensation, even with a side window cracked open.
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Old 12-16-2005, 01:12 AM   #8
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Thick curtains are supposed to help insulate the windows
My "curtains" are actually heavy vinyl sheets that I roll up instead of hang side to side.

These help tremendously for temperature control. (Keeps the breeze and cold out by quite a bit) but instead of the condensation forming on the windows, it happens on the shades instead. Not nearly what I have seen on the windows tho, with the shades up.
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Old 12-16-2005, 07:12 AM   #9
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Condensation is a small price to pay for some spectacular winter camping.

Whenever warm moist air contacts a cold surface, moisture is going to condensate.

Ventilation ... as others have said ... will help but never eliminate it entirely.

Make sure you ventilate your trailer for several days after your winter camping trip ... and any residual moisture will clear up.

My advice ... don't worry about it.

In my opinion, camping in the snow is about as good as it gets.

Wipe the windows off while you are winter camping and enjoy the views.

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Old 12-16-2005, 09:16 AM   #10
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There was also a discussion about the 3M Window stuff here:

Another Way to Winterize.
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Old 12-16-2005, 11:22 AM   #11
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We live where it's very humid, and were happy to find a product that helps keep the inside of our trailer dry. So far we've only used it when the trailer has been in storage (while parked outside), but I suspect it would help while you're camping too.


Attachment 635


The Eva-Dry mini dehumidifier is small (4 1/2 X 6 X 1 1/2 inches), is filled with dryrite crystals, and dries the air without using electricity. As the crystals absorb water, they change from a blue color to pink. When the crystals are pink (which means they are unable to absorb any more moisture) you remove the dehumidifier and plug it into an outlet elsewhere (where it will heat up and release the moisture it has absorbed - this usually takes overnight). Then unplug it and put it back in the trailer. We usually leave it there for a few weeks before needing to plug it in.

We originally found it at Real Goods, and later bought another one for the cab of our pickup at our local True Value Hardware store (it cost about $20). I hope this helps!

Jeanne

I will try Eva-Dry if I can find it I will also try Dry-it, and dry-air and as last resort I will cover the rear window with plastic. I don't mind the condensation as much as the thought of having it run down the walls to make dryrot. Thanks to all for their sugestions
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Old 12-17-2005, 08:42 AM   #12
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Is there any reason you arn't using the furnace? Condensation is going to be a problem with a catylitic while neither an electric or the standard furnace will cause this problem (the furnace vents exhaust outside the trailer when running).
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Old 12-17-2005, 08:46 AM   #13
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John, some of the cat heaters vent as well. Mine does (When I can get it lit!)
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Old 12-17-2005, 10:30 AM   #14
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Is there any reason you arn't using the furnace? Condensation is going to be a problem with a catylitic while neither an electric or the standard furnace will cause this problem (the furnace vents exhaust outside the trailer when running).
It condensates when I use the furnace, which has a vent to outside I didn't go outside to check next time I will. I also had 1 window open I will try 2 open next time. It won't be for a while as we are froze in now
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Old 12-17-2005, 10:39 AM   #15
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If you have single pane windows, there's not a whole lot you can do to stop the condensation...slow it down maybe... Just be prepared to mop the windows as necessary, be careful about purposely adding moisture to the air by how and what you cook. Obviously you don't want to be boiling a big pot of water for pasta without having the stove vent going full blast, don't allow the tea kettle sit and boil, etc.

Dry rot occurs because moisture is allowed to soak wood over and over with drying times in between. I wouldn't worry too much about dry rot from condensation if you dry the trailer out after camping, and that includes the cushions. If you lived it in full-time, I'd be looking to move to a warmer climate in the winter

Condensation is more of a nusance than anything else, especially when it drips off the window and onto the bedding...ask me how I know
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Old 12-17-2005, 11:11 PM   #16
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I know condensation is a problem with campers and smaller trailers so I had my wife get some of the cyrstals and sow them into little cloth packets 2"x3". We threw them in all the storage areas under the seats and cupboards. We still get some mouisture on the trailer windows at night but not too bad.
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Old 12-18-2005, 09:09 AM   #17
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I was a little concerned about carbon monoxide in the trailer cabin.

I know with the propane, non-catylitic, furnace the actual burner is external to the cabin and the heat is transferred by recirculating air past a heat exchange baffle. A hole in the heat exchange system could allow CO to enter the cabin. Do you have the same problem with condensation when you use an electric heater?

Just breathing, on the other hand, will generate quite a bit of moisture in an enclosed space... ventilation is probably the reasonably solution (2 windows... actually, one window and crack the roof a bit... hot air rises).
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Old 12-18-2005, 09:27 AM   #18
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I know condensation is a problem with campers and smaller trailers so I had my wife get some of the cyrstals and sow them into little cloth packets 2"x3". We threw them in all the storage areas under the seats and cupboards. We still get some mouisture on the trailer windows at night but not too bad.

Con, the Dri-Z-Air crystals that I use require a container for the moisture to drip into. I'm assuming you're not talking about the Dri-Z-Air, otherwise where would the moisture go except into the fabrics/cushions etc, once it was pulled out of the air
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Old 12-18-2005, 11:06 AM   #19
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I just discovered that there is another Eva-Dry dehumidifier that is double the size of our Eva-Dry 300. It's the Eva-Dry 500, and I read that it can absorb 8-10 oz of water before needing to be renewed by pugging it in. Considering the size of our trailers, it would probably be the better size to get. (I also learned that it doesn't use dryrite crystals after all - instead it has "Water Glass Technology" which the manufacturers say is more absorbant than other dehumidifying crystals.)



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Donna - I used to sew little packets to put dryrite crystals into too, which I think is what Con's wife is doing. For me, this became tiresome because the crystals become saturated with moisture, at which point you need to open up the packets, dry the crystals out in a low-heat oven for a couple of hours, then replace them into the cloth packets. The great thing about the Eva-Dry is that all you need to do to replenish its moisture-absorbing properties is to plug it in. (And no, I don't own any stock in the company!)

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Old 12-18-2005, 06:10 PM   #20
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I read somewhere that the average adult puts out about 1 pint of water in the breathing process throughout 1 night of sleep. Sounded like a lot of water to me.
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