Dometic Refrigerator 2410 quit - Fiberglass RV
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Old 07-21-2021, 10:36 AM   #1
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Dometic Refrigerator 2410 quit

Our Dometic 2410 refrigerator in our 2006 Scamp stopped cooling after several hundred miles of rough gravel roads. While on propane the heating unit kept working but the interior of the fridge got warm, especially the freezer section. Fridge was operating while driving. There was very noticeable gurgling heard in the system. Does this just need service to the refrigerant in the system or is the whole fridge history?
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Old 07-21-2021, 09:54 PM   #2
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Additional fridge info

Propane tank has fuel, thermocouple is working with pilot light. Burner unit heats and heats up gas in the system. As it heats the gurgling of the gas begins. 12v fuse for the fridge is good. No cooling taking place
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Old 07-22-2021, 06:30 AM   #3
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Maybe try turning it off for 24 hours, that may allow the liquid to consolidate and the air in the liquid to rise out and rise to the top as a gas again.

The very severe mixing of the materials may be the issue
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Old 07-22-2021, 10:44 PM   #4
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Additional fridge info

Liquid and gas mixing could be very possible. Did the 24 hour rest and on cycle 3 times since the problem began and still no change. Turn off the fridge when the freezer hits 80 degrees. Still lots of heat throughout the system and gurgling in the line starting a the furnace portion. I'll keep cycling the system to see if it improves at all. Thanks for the input.
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Old 07-23-2021, 01:49 PM   #5
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I am curious what you find in the end. My 2004 fridge does not work on electricity, but OK on propane. I have never heard any gurgling when it operates, or never heard of it, so curious what other people say. The heated section is where the "bubble pump" moves the fluid up and it then flows down along those meanders. More things of interest happen along the way, of course. The bubble pump is very much like the coffee percolator.
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Old 07-23-2021, 10:28 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Smayda View Post
Propane tank has fuel, thermocouple is working with pilot light. Burner unit heats and heats up gas in the system. As it heats the gurgling of the gas begins. 12v fuse for the fridge is good. No cooling taking place
Have you noticed any smell of ammonia or other strange smells? Look all over the tubing in the rear for rust, small hole, yellow spot or anything that isn't like it should be. Sounds like the tubing may have a hole and that would be a ruined fridge. Rough roads could have caused something to come apart. If all else fails you'll have to take it to shop and let them look at it.
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Old 07-23-2021, 11:12 PM   #7
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Never had any ammonia or other odors from the unit. There are some rust spots on the tubing but no signs of any fluid leakage on or below the unit. Seems to me that if there was a hole somewhere that there should be signs of a leak. Also, the gurgling says to me that there is still refrigerant in the system although maybe more air than liquid. I have read that ammonia sediment can accumulate in the lower tubing. Turning the fridge upside down can fix some fridges but I'll keep cycling it a little longer before I pull the unit out. I appreciate all the input.
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Old 07-24-2021, 09:04 AM   #8
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Does it work on electric? If it does you may need a new thermostat on the gas side. And or if you have, try on 12v some units use the same element for electric and 12v
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Old 07-24-2021, 10:24 PM   #9
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The 120v electric heater works and produces the same results as the propane heater. The entire system heats and no cooling taking place. I hear the same gurgling so it seems that there is coolant in the system. Sounds like it is circulating throughout the system. I don't understand, how would a faulty thermostat result in the system not cooling but the heating system working? Prior to this problem the fridge operated silently.
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Old 07-27-2021, 08:31 AM   #10
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Unhappy

Spoke with a refrigeration guy and he states the fridge is history. Both gas and electric heaters are working but the fridge can't make any cold, only heat. Time to look for a new fridge. Case closed.
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Old 07-28-2021, 10:25 AM   #11
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doesn't add up, if heaters work, and system remains sealed, it should work
before tossing I would remove unit, turn upside down and leave for a week, then return to normal position and try on AC, if it works, it will also work on propane, and you just saved a grand

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Old 07-28-2021, 11:44 AM   #12
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I hear you that it doesn't make sense. The heater definitely is heating the liquid in the system thus causing the gurgling/percolating in the system. Two different theories about turning the unit upside down. One theory says it loosens carbon and deposits in the burner section. Another states that it mixes ammonia sediment that settles in the bottom coils. I certainly have nothing to lose my doing that. Maybe I'll get a better look at the system once I yank it out.
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Old 07-28-2021, 12:53 PM   #13
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Other thing could be a plugged chimney or missing the little swirl doohickey that sits at the top of the chimney
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Old 07-28-2021, 08:39 PM   #14
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Fridge is out and upside down now so I'll re-post in about a week. Everything in back looks clean and in order. No leaks, no plugs or broken parts. Heard some fluid drain down when I turned it over. Crossing my fingers.
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Old 08-06-2021, 03:30 PM   #15
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Fridge is history

So the fridge was pulled and upside down for 7 days. Tipped it upright for 24 hours and started it on electric. Lo and behold I smelled ammonia from the upper fins. I probably didn't catch it earlier because the smell went up the the roof vent. So the conclusion is a small hole in the system and the unit is toast. Well at least I gave it a try and know what the problem is. Thanks for all the advice.
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Old 08-06-2021, 04:15 PM   #16
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So, one last option, if the rest of the fridge is in good shape, you can order a new cooling unit to fit by searching online under rv fridge repairs
Might be an idea if you can’t find one to fit properly
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Old 08-06-2021, 04:46 PM   #17
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A modern compressor fridge is in order

They work well on DC and VERY low power. But they do require battery.
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Old 08-07-2021, 08:05 AM   #18
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You may be able to just replace the cooling unit. I've heard good reviews of these units and may have went that route if our fridge ever died.
Replacement cooling unit
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Old 08-07-2021, 12:25 PM   #19
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Recall on Dometic refrigerator

There was a recall years ago regarding a Dometic refrigerator model. My RM2354 lost the coolant, and I am going to call them to see what, if anything they will do. apparently there was a class action against them that was dismissed because of a technicality.
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Old 08-07-2021, 04:38 PM   #20
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After a lot of digging, the most plausible theory I've found for the upside-down part is this:
When the fridge is run off-level and the liquid can't circulate, heat builds up in the boiler tube. Eventually, it gets too hot and the corrosion inhibitor crystallizes out. This can't be undone, but turning it upside-down can dislodge some of the crystals so the coolant can at least flow again.

The smell confirms it, but my guess would have been a small leak near the top. Maybe even so small that it only leaked when it was pressurized. It'd mostly leak out hydrogen at that point, which means no noticeable smell but the ammonia liquid then would boil too soon and not evaporate in the cooling portion like it's supposed to, so it'd be dumping heat from the boiler into the freezer instead of pulling it away.
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