Easy Air Condition Option (May-be)

[Phillip]

This looks exactly like what Dometic did on the the later BriskAir. That, along with a separately controlled 3-speed fan, seem to be the only differences. [b]Do you have any idea what the values are on the 'hard start' capacitor? BTW, my old A/C works just fine with my old (1978) Honda industrial generator (rated 3600, max 4500watt), but I'm sure, if it was close camping, somebody would shoot me (because it's a thundering beast). Not just exhaust, but mechanical noise too.
My next test will on a spare later model 'BriskAir' 13,500 with a 'Mitsubishi' 1800 watt max rated generator that I have. If that comes close to working, there'll be an A/C change in the works, because I want a smaller, quieter, lighter generator

The spp6 will work on any A/C from 1-5 tons... cost at a part house around $30

But if it runs for 5 min then shutoff this wont help it.. IMHO..it is only good for Start ups..not during the running cycle..

It sounds like you [b]may have bearings in the compressor that maybe getting rough and causing it to run a higher amp draw than normal... you might also make sure your condenser is good and clean,A dirty condenser can also cause a some what of a higher amp draw on a hot day..

[Lloyd (aka Santa) Coltman]

[It sounds like you may have bearings in the compressor that maybe getting rough and causing it to run a higher amp draw than normal... you might also make sure your condenser is good and clean,A dirty condenser can also cause a some what of a higher amp draw on a hot day..
[/quote]
Then it definitely sounds like a change-out is in the plan. Strange that it will run for days on a 15Amp(1800watt) household breaker, with converter and fridge, without 'popping'. It was the 'overload' on the 2800watt generator that popped, not in the A/C. The test was run at 11:00am, temp about 70f. Oh well, I like the idea of the multi-speed fan anyways, just need to get the proper ceiling unit (it was set up ducted, with remote thermostat, not self-contained, and the plastic finish cover was melted by a flash fire). Thanks for the tips, you've been a lot of help. Maybe I'd be wise to run a draw test on both units, too.

[Phillip]

[It sounds like you [b]may have bearings in the compressor that maybe getting rough and causing it to run a higher amp draw than normal... you might also make sure your condenser is good and clean,A dirty condenser can also cause a some what of a higher amp draw on a hot day..

Then it definitely sounds like a change-out is in the plan. Strange that it will run for days on a 15Amp(1800watt) household breaker, with converter and fridge, without 'popping'. It was the 'overload' on the 2800watt generator that popped, not in the A/C. The test was run at 11:00am, temp about 70f. Oh well, I like the idea of the multi-speed fan anyways, just need to get the proper ceiling unit (it was set up ducted, with remote thermostat, not self-contained, and the plastic finish cover was melted by a flash fire). Thanks for the tips, you've been a lot of help. Maybe I'd be wise to run a draw test on both units, too.

that would be a good idea...something sounds fishy but without being there its really hard to say..

[Lloyd (aka Santa) Coltman]

that would be a good idea...something sounds fishy but without being there its really hard to say..

How come you've got my picture on your reply?

[Pamela H]

I just got home from Wally World after wandering around the store while the wife shopped. In the hardware department I found a small Hailer 7K BTU self contained floor A/C unit. The unit is much smaller than any self contained floor unit I have seen, 18"W, 13 1/8" D, 24" H. I measured my 13 Scamp closet and it will fit in the closet by only cutting the door opening one inch wider and you should still have about an inch clearance on either side inside the closet and plenty of room for the depth. All you should have to do for an outside opening is cut a 4" or 6" (Not sure which size.) round exhaust hole in the side of the trailer and cover with a small grille. Of course you will have to fabricate supports to hold the unit in the closet and provide power. I'm not quite sure how the condensate is dealt with on this unit but even if it collects in a reservoir you could easily fabricate a drain hose. The unit sells for $299 at my local Wally World and it comes with a remote control. It's higher than a window unit but may be well worth the extra money in ease of installation. I did not open up the unit and I got all my information from the outside the box but if I were considering installing an A/C in my Scamp I would definitely take a look at this unit.

You don't by chance have the SKU number on that unit, do you?
(The SKU is the number under the bar code...)
Thanks!

Pam

[Lloyd (aka Santa) Coltman]

that would be a good idea...something sounds fishy but without being there its really hard to say..

Sorry, but Santa's back to ask more questions. I've been monkeying with my A/C again, and I've come up with more symptoms. The other day, I tried to run my A/C after completing a mod to remove an UGLY toggle switch the previous owner had put in to give option of continuous run on the A/C fan. I removed the switch, and spliced the wires together. Then I installed a regular light switch in the power junction box (next to A/C). Now, I set the thermostat to warm/off, and turn on the "light switch" to start fan. After about 10 seconds, I set the thermostat to cool, which starts the compressor. Next day, in the heat of the sun, after about 5 sec of running, I popped the 15A breaker in the power bar I have feeding the trailer. I took that out of the circuit (wasn't there before). Now, if it's less than about 75f, the A/C will start and run just fine. However, if it's in the high 80s, and the sun has been beating on the A/C for a while, the compressor struggles to start, and usually blows the house breaker (15A). Now, if I run the fan for about 15 minutes, lowering the temp in the housing, then start the compressor, the A/C will work fine for an indeterminate period of time.

[Darral]

Phillip,

I hope you're still around to comment on this, but do you feel there is enough room on the outside of the A/C or in the "storage area" of the Scamp for sufficient cooling of the condenser coils and compressor??

I'm not sure what the fuss is about on the other....it's simple that those A/C's pull air through the bottom/front and exits it cooled at the top/front. But again, I'd be more concerned about the exterior portion getting enough air to keep from damaging the A/C's compressor. Am I missing it totally here from an 'inexperienced' A/C guy??

Thanks in advance,
Darral

I'm a Heating an A/C Tech...You need to have intake air for the Condenser from the outside... and also a separate space for Exhaust air from the Condenser for it to work properly... this is what is done in mine... mine is located under the front bench with supports on both sides and air intakes on both sides under the bench and exhaust air out the filter grill in front..This seems to work very well..this is a semi permanent solution... as for road grim I just open the front grill and insert a piece of plexi for traveling the keeps the rain or debris out ....it can be removed in just seconds and the A/C is ready for use... Just another Idea ..I fixed the unit so it doesnt move any and helps add support under the front bench ... other wise at least 2/3 of the unit needs to be mounted past the exterior of the shell (Window/hole) or the return and supply would need to be ducted from the outside in some fashion..