FYI Cost: Replacement of front and rear windows - Fiberglass RV
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Old 09-11-2018, 05:37 PM   #1
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Name: Julie
Trailer: 13' Scamp / 1983
Montana
Posts: 57
FYI Cost: Replacement of front and rear windows

Just want to offer a quick informational post on replacing the front and rear windows in a 1983 Scamp 13’.

After breaking my wrist early this summer, I decided not to attempt replacing the seals on the front and rear windows in my Scamp by myself. I purchased the replacement seals from Scamp and had a local ‘Glass Doctor’ windshield replacement business do the work. They convinced me to replace the scratched windows as well, which did make sense as I am rebuilding much of the Scamp, and they were 35 years old.

The total cost of windows plus replacement labor came to $290. As stated, I had already purchased the seals from Scamp. Hope this helps any other owners in making a decision on what to replace.

Happy Tuesday, group - and thank you all for your opinions and suggestions as I peruse this website for information.
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Old 09-11-2018, 05:56 PM   #2
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Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 5,155
Thanks for the info. I could look it up, but might instead just ask what the parts from Scamp cost (so I can figure the cost of the replacement windows and labor at your local shop).

My front (plastic) window got scratched in the very first year of life, thanks to this gal...
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Old 09-11-2018, 07:33 PM   #3
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Name: Julie
Trailer: 13' Scamp / 1983
Montana
Posts: 57
Hi, Gordon!

As I recall. The seal / trim was about $40 per window plus shipping from Scamp. The owner at the Glass Doctor business said they typically have that trim on hand and sell it for $3 per foot. I might add for those in Canada that this was in U.S. / Montana.

The replacement windows are 3/16” in depth, which is the same info that Ian Gilles has on his site re the window depth.
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Old 09-11-2018, 07:39 PM   #4
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Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
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Nice. Although I usually DIY, it sounds like it is well worth the expense to go to a good glass shop and not DIY for this job.
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Old 09-11-2018, 07:54 PM   #5
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Name: Julie
Trailer: 13' Scamp / 1983
Montana
Posts: 57
That’s the same conclusion I came to after reading several posts about replacing the seals. And then considering some residual weakness in my wrist ... for me it was well worth the $$.

The Glass Doctor owner/operator said it was not an easy job for them, either - though that could have been mentioned before they gave me the invoice. ��
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Old 10-10-2018, 10:59 AM   #6
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Name: Julie
Trailer: 13' Scamp / 1983
Montana
Posts: 57
I’m back at this front and rear window issue (1983 Scamp 13’) - unfortunately - and need to pick some brains!

After having new front and rear windows installed (from a local auto windshield business) and purchasing the new seals from Scamp, they leak.

The windshield repair business has been good to work with in fixing this issue, and I have an appointment for them to pull the windows and reseal them in a couple of days. He is talking about using silicone (I know: horrors) to seal this time. After having listened to my fears about using it initially, I’m thinking he might be right. He used 3/16 plexi, and as far as I know, they were cut the same size as the originals he replaced.

Any help here that I can pass on to him?
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Old 10-21-2018, 11:06 AM   #7
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Name: Jim
Trailer: Scamp 13(sold!) & TDI tugboat
Ohio
Posts: 121
Another data point

Last year I had a local window shop replace the very crazed rear window and both front and rear weatherstrips in my '83 Scamp13. The front window was in excellent condition due to living under the rock guard most of it's life, so was reused. We measured the thickness of the FG shell and the plexi, then ordered the correct weatherstrip, same stuff is commonly used in boats and stepvans.



On the appointed day, I took the scamp back to the shop, where he immediately popped out both windows. The original rear window was used as a pattern to cut a new window from identical thickness plexi. Once the window was verified to fit in the opening, the new weatherstrip was test fit on the windows and cut to length. The last step was to glue the weatherstrip on the window with black polyurethane window adhesive, filled the outer channel of weatherstrip with poly adhesive, then snap the windows in place. He made it look easy.



They are super solid feeling now, and no leaks, unlike the old petrified weatherstripping. Total cost was <$300 for one plexi window, 20' of weatherstrip, a tube of black sikaflex, and 1.5hrs of labor.
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Jim C & a 1983 Scamp 13
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Old 10-22-2018, 02:14 PM   #8
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Name: Julie
Trailer: 13' Scamp / 1983
Montana
Posts: 57
Thanks, Jim!

Every bit of knowledge shared is helping me as I try to figure out what to do next. I know the windshield replacement business is about out of rabbits in their hat ...

I have some sealant that is being shipped to me this week - hope it will do the trick.
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Old 01-26-2019, 10:56 AM   #9
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Name: aj
Trailer: Roamer TC
Georgia
Posts: 97
To verify: this was for plexiglass? Was it a frame with a curve to it?

I would love to get real auto windshield type glass on the front of mine. It does curve at the sides though. I think paying a glass shop would be a good investment if they could match the curve with real glass.
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Old 01-26-2019, 11:10 PM   #10
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Name: Julie
Trailer: 13' Scamp / 1983
Montana
Posts: 57
Roamer: To answer your question - the windows I replaced are Lexan. I am no expert here, but to my knowledge, real glass won’t work in this situation due to the radius of the fiberglass.
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Old 01-27-2019, 08:50 AM   #11
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Name: aj
Trailer: Roamer TC
Georgia
Posts: 97
Julie, you are spot on. curves and flat panes would not fit together. Consider a curved automotive glass.
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