Guys very inportant to check this!!!!!

[Randy Bishop]

Guys,
As many on here know I've been renovating these for several years now and I've renovated over 8 Trillium's, 4 Scamp's, 4 Burro's and 4 U-Hauls and for the most part everyone of them has had a few issues.. but the one I'm doing now was a accident waiting to happen.. I don't always do a frame off renovation, probably done 6 or 7 but decided to do it on the one I'm doing now.. I bought this one in Kansas and brought it home probably 2 1/2 years ago, and man was it a long trip over 900 miles.
Well when I got under it to start removing the bolts that hold's it on the frame I discovered all the bolts and brackets had rusted completely into, I mean there was NOTHING holding it on except for one bolt in the back right hand corner and the electrical cable and gas line in the front.. It's a wonder it didn't come off the frame when I drug it home, I was pulling it 70 to 75 mph down the interstate.. I've never seen that before, now I've had them where one or two was nearly gone but this was scary and by the looks of it, it had been this way for a very long time because the front two bolts were rusted to a sharp point and the nut a washers were long gone..
So if you have a old camper please check your bolts and for gods sake use stainless steel bolts and washers like I do....

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Randy Bishop

Guys,
As many on here know I've been renovating these for several years now and I've renovated over 8 Trillium's, 4 Scamp's, 4 Burro's and 4 U-Hauls and for the most part everyone of them has had a few issues.. but the one I'm doing now was a accident waiting to happen.. I don't always do a frame off renovation, probably done 6 or 7 but decided to do it on the one I'm doing now.. I bought this one in Kansas and brought it home probably 2 1/2 years ago, and man was it a long trip over 900 miles.
Well when I got under it to start removing the bolts that hold's it on the frame I discovered all the bolts and brackets had rusted completely into, I mean there was NOTHING holding it on except for one bolt in the back right hand corner and the electrical cable and gas line in the front.. It's a wonder it didn't come off the frame when I drug it home, I was pulling it 70 to 75 mph down the interstate.. I've never seen that before, now I've had them where one or two was nearly gone but this was scary and by the looks of it, it had been this way for a very long time because the front two bolts were rusted to a sharp point and the nut a washers were long gone..
So if you have a old camper please check your bolts and for gods sake use stainless steel bolts and washers like I do....

I'll bet its a Trillium...
The Trillium is attached to the frame much like prewar cars,
I had a nice Trillium with the same bolt condition and nothing wrong with the frame. Body to frame bolt rust out is common on old cars. the same is common on carburetor bolts as well.

[squish]

Stainless bolts have their place, but the can also cause or excellerate corrosion if they are used with dissimilar metals. Also stainless bolts can have a limited lifespan when used where the bolt is subjected to side loads repeatedly. It can be slightly more brittle.

[Cajun Dave]

The previous post mentioned a key point, SS shears when side loaded particularly a cyclic load. I recognize rust can be an issue, but carbon steel can take the cyclic loading. a good rust inhibitor can do the trick to make it last a long time. Once a SS fastener fails you tend to get what is known as the zipper affect.

Just my thoughts, Dave

[sweendog]

Look closely at steel fasteners on the undercarriage of any type of vehicle driven in states that use salt on the roads in winter. I had the similar issues with a car from Ohio.

[Buggeee]

Great advice. Will check it. Thank you.

[Raz]

We've had several folks report similar stories, the body bolts were gone but the body stayed put despite the road vibration. Perhaps due to steps in the frame, friction, or just pure dumb luck.

My first trailer, a Chalet A frame, used bolts and self drilling screws to keep the body on. I bought it new. Four years later the self drilling screws had completely vanished. I know at least one fiberglass manufacturer uses these but I've yet to hear of it being an issue.

My Trillium came with stainless bolts.

[k0wtz]

I never heard of this interesting. also interesting s/s bolts I wonder if grade 5 bodlts rust out just as fast?

bob

[Byron Kinnaman]

I really like the SS bolts I use to hold my propane tank on. When (not if) the threads get damaged I just use a couple wrenches and bust the bolt off. It's surprising how easy it is to break SS 5/16" bolts.

[Raz]

Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman

I really like the SS bolts I use to hold my propane tank on. When (not if) the threads get damaged I just use a couple wrenches and bust the bolt off. It's surprising how easy it is to break SS 5/16" bolts.

And you keep buying new ones?

[k0wtz]

Raz you make me nervous I am going to have my mechanic check mine. Since my back surgery I cannot get under there but you have valid points!


thanks


bob

[Raz]

Originally Posted by k0wtz

Raz you make me nervous I am going to have my mechanic check mine. Since my back surgery I cannot get under there but you have valid points!


thanks


bob

Always a good idea to check your frame and the fasteners periodically. That said, if you worry about every thing you read here you'll drive yourself crazy. Enjoy your trailer. Raz

[Jon in AZ]

Scamp mounts the shell entirely differently than Trillium. Scamp screws the floor to the frame (lots of screws!) and then fiberglasses the shell to the floor.

To check the screws, get under the trailer and give each screw tip a twist with a pair of pliers. If it spins freely or breaks off, that screw is toast. If a lot of them are like that, you need to do some work.

Scamp's shell attachment is not as vulnerable to sudden catastrophic failure due to the sheer number of attachment points. But it makes separating the shell to do frame repair harder.

[k0wtz]

raz you are a funny guy I just remembered my Stevie has a new trailer frame under her. she is a 95 so I lucked out!


bob

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by Raz

And you keep buying new ones?

Yes. I have to remove my propane cylinder to fill it. If I put steel bolts and it go the threads damaged I would have to cut it off. With SS I can simply break the bolt.

[Jon in AZ]

I remove my LP tank on almost every trip to fuel our outdoor kitchen. Never had any issues with damaged threads.

The original steel bolts lasted 9 years, and I replaced them this spring because they were starting to rust, not because they were damaged. Switched to a wing nut on the bottom so removal now only requires a screwdriver. Cost around a buck.

Maybe our dry climate helps?

[Raz]

Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman

Yes. I have to remove my propane cylinder to fill it. If I put steel bolts and it go the threads damaged I would have to cut it off. With SS I can simply break the bolt.

I'm using the same stainless steel bolts holding my tank that came with the trailer. Just ending our eigth season. No thread issues. If the nuts won't loosen that's galling, cold weld. Add a little lubricant to the threads. To have to replace the bolts just to refill the tank seems excessive.

[k0wtz]

raz yes it does mine doesn't do that!


bob