How to remove old striping on Comtempo Trailer

[EasyRider]

Would like to remove the striping from a 40 year old Contempo fiberglass trailer we bought a couple years back.

Any tip on how to do this?

[FRED SMAILES]

Take a look at this 3M ptoduct if they are decals.
Fred

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_NrlNf4tirU

[EasyRider]

I've watched many a tutorial on YouTube including the one you attached. However, am still looking for a video or advise on how to remove 40 year old adhesive/vinyl? blue striping on a oxidized fiberglass Contempo trailer.

Today's removal procedures and removal products may not be recommended for a vintage fiberglass trailer.

That said ... thank you for your response. It is very much appreciated.

For fun I am attaching artwork I did ...

[Jon in AZ]

Vinyl is vinyl. It might work. It has worked for others, even on older trailers . It didn’t work for me because the oxidized red dye on my Scamp decals smeared into the pores of the fiberglass and was very difficult to remove.

I ended up removing mine with a plastic razor, inch by painstaking inch. I used a whole lot of extra blades.

Given the alternative, it’s at least worth a try IMO.

[Eric Frye]

With vinyl sticker that old I would suggest using a heat gun and a flexible metal scraper.

[John in Michigan]

EasyRider, the 3M eraser wheel (and generic equivalents) does work on 40 year old molded fiberglass trailers. My wife and I used one to remove very rotten old striping from our 40 year Boler 17. The striping came off very fast! Then we cleaned up the minimal remaining residue with wd40.

[Steve Hammel]

I'm with the heat gun and scrapper crowd. I bought one of those wheels and tried to take stripes off a 1989 Toyota. It burned it in place. Made one hell of a mess. Might work better on fiberglass though.

[lijMichael]

I agree with the heat gun, but would advise you start out on the lowest setting or first try a hair dryer that has lo/hi settings. You can always increase the heat if it does not work on the lower setting. BUT one thing I would advise against is using any type of metal scraper on the camper. I realize you said the finish is heavily oxidized, but metal on fiberglass can be a disaster looking fo a place to happen. Rather go to your hardware store and pickup some plastic scrapers in the paint department, they are much more forgiving.


Go to youtube and do a search for removing decals from cars, same principle. Beware I saw on where the guy puts lacquer thinner on a shop towel and tapes it to the decal then uses a plastic razor blade to scrape the decal off. My problem with that is I soak my paint brushes that have dried paint in them in lacquer thinner to remove the dried paint. I can't say I want to try soaking a spot on my vehicle. Any way best of luck.

[EasyRider]

Thank you. You confirmed worst fears. Started to remove it with a razor blade but found myself gouging the fiberglass.

Will revisit using the razor blade.

What are your thoughts on painting the exterior?

[EasyRider]

Thank you ... that's something we hadn't thought of.

[EasyRider]

Thank you. The heat gun sounds like it might work. Will check out YouTube.

[EasyRider]

3M Eraser wheel. Thank you. Will check it out.

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by EasyRider

Thank you. You confirmed worst fears. Started to remove it with a razor blade but found myself gouging the fiberglass.

Will revisit using the razor blade.

What are your thoughts on painting the exterior?

Plastic razors (with plastic blades) are available in the paint section of your local hardware store. With or without the eraser wheel, they are an indispensable tool in decal removal and won’t harm the fiberglass. In addition to my Scamp, I used them to remove the decals on another newer RV by lifting a corner so I could start peeling. Those mostly came off in one piece.

The one tool mentioned I’ve never tried is a heat gun. I tried a har dryer on high, but it didn’t concentrate the heat enough to make a difference. At the time I was too cheap to buy one, but it sounds like it might have made a difference.

Paint is a last resort. I would only consider it if damage goes past the gelcoat, and structural fiberglass repair is required. There are a number of things you can do to bring back a shine short of painting, including marine fiberglass restoration kits and Zep high gloss floor wax. Lots of old threads on reviving dull gelcoat.

[FRED SMAILES]

Throw that razor blade in the corner, you will destroy the gelcoat.
Especially if your using some heat.
Fred

[barrry smithe]

You will find the plastic razor blades will not harm the fiberglass. I used heat gun, acetone, goof off, plastic razor blades, and plenty of elbow grease to remove the Scamp decals on my 19. Just takes time and patience.

[Natalie21]

If you ask me about how to remove oxidation from a gel coat without polishing or waxing, I can always suggest the wet sanding method. Some types of RV oxidation are superficial scratches that give the motorhome a dull and oxidized overall appearance. For this method, you will need to use sandpaper of varying grit sizes. Always start with the coarsest sandpaper (No. 600 or No. 400) and work your way towards the finest sandpaper grit size (No. 2000) you can get.

[Natalie21]

Originally Posted by Natalie21

If you ask me about how to remove oxidation from a gel coat without polishing or waxing, I can always suggest the wet sanding method. Some types of RV oxidation are superficial scratches that give the motorhome a dull and oxidized overall appearance. For this method, you will need to use sandpaper of varying grit sizes. Always start with the coarsest sandpaper (No. 600 or No. 400) and work your way towards the finest sandpaper grit size (No. 2000) you can get.

Start by heating the design. Peel off the decal from the surface and apply an adhesive remover on a piece of microfiber cloth. Clean the area thoroughly.