Is it important to replace rusty screws and hinges? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-26-2018, 06:10 AM   #1
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Name: Kate
Trailer: Scamp
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Replace rusty exterior parts on my Scamp?

I just purchased a 2010 13' Scamp I am still in that steep learning curve stage. My camper is absolutely pristine on the inside and everything is in perfect working order with no evidence of mold or mustiness.

On the outside, I have two areas that need addressing.

1) Remove / replace the awning
This camper has an older Shademaker awning that fils with water every time it rains. I want to remove it and honestly I don't really want to replace it but there would so many holes where they installed the rail to the camper.
* If I choose to remove the awning, what is the best way to seal all the holes made by the screws?
* Am I better off just leaving the side rail up so I don't have to worry about it?

2) Rusty screws, hinges, etc. on the exterior
Lots of exterior metal on this thing is rusting. My SO is trying to convince me not to worry about any of it but I want to remove and replace. Thoughts?
* Should I deal with this now or later? I am of the school of thought that it's better to deal with it sooner than later?
* I'm pretty handy but I have never dealt with pop rivets. How easy / difficult are they to replace?

Thanks!
Kate

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Old 07-26-2018, 11:49 AM   #2
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Is it important to replace rusty screws and hinges?

We just brought home our first trailer, a 13" 2010 Scamp. The inside is in pristine condition. The exterior could use a good cleaning and wax. I've noticed that the majority of exterior screws and hinges are rusted and staining the fiberglass. Should I replace these? It seems like I should b/c it is staining the fiberglass.I am pretty handy but I don't know anything about rivets.
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Old 07-26-2018, 12:20 PM   #3
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I'd replace the screws with stainless steel. The rivets should be non-rusting aluminum, so can't help with that. Should be able to order new hinges from Scamp - maybe other Scamp owners will chime in as to whether or not they're available in stainless steel.
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Old 07-26-2018, 12:43 PM   #4
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Thanks for the advice. Yes, I do know that the rivets are aluminum but they are used to attach some of the rusted hinges so I would have to replace those in the process.

Is there anything special I need to know about replacing the screws? I am nervous as hell about taking them out.

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Old 07-26-2018, 12:44 PM   #5
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Yes, the rivets are aluminum but they are used to attach some of the rusted metal pieces, especially around the rock guard in the front.

Anything special I need to know about changing out the screws are is it straight forward?
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Old 07-26-2018, 12:46 PM   #6
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Kate you can buy a kit for the door hinges and front rock guard from Products Archive - Camping Treasures The kit comes with the rivets that you need, you will just need to acquire a heavy duty rivet gun. I have the kit as well as the door holder piece in stainless and will soon be changing these things out one by one before they get too rusty and cause staining.
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Old 07-27-2018, 09:16 AM   #7
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I'm wondering if you can paint Naval Jelly on that to dissolve the rust, without damaging the fiberglass. Naval Jelly is phosphoric acid gel that is painted on, allowed to sit, then rinsed off. Coating the cleaned part is necessary to prevent future rust, but possibly the new coating could be clear?
If new hardware were available, I'd go that route.
Is there a way to see what those screws go into, behind the fiberglass?
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Old 07-27-2018, 09:33 AM   #8
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Replacing rusted screws:

Go near the top of the page and find "Search." Click on that.
Go down to the lower blank, not the upper, and type in replace exterior screws, exterior screws, replacing screws, and so forth.
You will find eventually all kinds of threads here with a ton of information all about it, probably even for your particular model of trailer.
Don't use silicone caulk, consider using "beeswax" to screw your new screws into before putting them back in over butyl tape, but k.corbin had a post about another product that works, too, to help seal not so much the screws (stainless are primo) but the "matrix" they go through and into.


Check for videos on YouTube as well; amazing what you can find there and watch someone else do sufficiently that you feel pretty darn good about your ability to do the same--or even better.

BEST with it! Congratulations on your new trailer!
Pics? We do love pics. Also, have you named it? Many of us name our rigs. Mine is "Peanut" -- as in, one shell with two nuts in it.

(We completely gutted and redid Peanut 2015-2016. Been camping ever since, very satisfied with outcome.)

Kai in Seattle

(Kathleen near Renton)

P.S.: Beeswax is readily found at any hardware store...it is a toilet ring, cheap, easy, and apparently made of pure beeswax.
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Old 07-27-2018, 09:39 AM   #9
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Scamp has a parts store that seems to sell everything you might need.

Scamp parts store
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Old 07-27-2018, 10:30 AM   #10
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My main concern would be that the rust would contribute to unsightly brown streaks on the outside of the trailer, which would make extra maintenance necessary well before the rust would cause failure of the parts.
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Old 07-27-2018, 10:35 AM   #11
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toilet seal rings haven't been real bees wax since I was a brunette, they are however a softer and slightly tacky wax that is really good for applying screws with. Not only as a seal but to act as a lubricant. On wood it can help prevent wood from splitting or that annoying screw that doesn't want to drive all the way in with a drill and screwdriver bit.


Little bit of barkeepers friend cleanser will help take that rust stain off. Aluminum rivets on FGRV are best rivets to use in most cases but aluminum and steel in contact with each other will accelerate the rusting and corrosion. The two metals react with each other to oxidize. So thin plastic washer under the rivet would be advisable.


Or use steel rivets which are generally much harder to "set" with a rivet gun than softer aluminum. But they will rust unless coated with paint and/or car wax. That leaves stainless steel which would be your best bet. You may need someone on the inside to hold the nut while you tighten if you use bolts. Screws only work if you have something solid to screw into so probably going to be bolt through fiberglass. Washer on the inside is good to spread the weight out a bit.
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Old 07-27-2018, 10:53 AM   #12
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Ian Giles sells ALL stainless steel hardware for the gravel guard. Scamp sells mild steel.

Be aware, his store is closed Aug. 1 - Aug. 31, he has ALL he can do planning the 50th Boler Event.


Boler/Scamp - Window Gravel Guard - Stainless Steel - Camping Treasures
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Old 07-27-2018, 11:01 AM   #13
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Daub the rusted parts with naval jelly, let sit about 10 min.
Rinse off with water. let dry.
Paint w/ Rustoleum.
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Old 07-27-2018, 11:49 AM   #14
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Barkeepers friend will remove the rust streaks.
Your not spending allot of money to replace stuff in stainless steel. You can always remove the rust and treat the steel and then paint it to stop growing rust. But then you add a yearly maintenance step routine to your trailer ownership.
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Old 07-27-2018, 12:13 PM   #15
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For the shade maker awning. You can remove it from the rail every time you don't use it. That's what I do. You can remove it and clean and paint the rail white so it disappears from view. You can replace the rail with a white one and you can remove the rail and deal with the holes which is the very last thing I would do.

As for the awning its self You can seal the thread stitching in the cover every so often with bees wax. We use to do that with tents in the old days. You can also burn in a couple of drain holes in the cover at the low spots with a soldering iron so water accumulated will drip out. I had to do that to my old awning on my old pop up back in the early 80's. burning a hole fuses the edges so they don't tear out later. You have to open up the awning so you only burn through the carry bag. If your really handy you can punch a couple of brass grommets to make it look professional.

For rivet installation see below





https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-t...-riveters.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/air-to...ter-93458.html
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Old 07-27-2018, 06:46 PM   #16
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Name: Kate
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Thanks for all the info and helpful advice. I have read and searched this website and the internet as a whole for the past several days and am overwhelmed at the conflicting advice so I am appreciative of your responses.

I want to replace all the rusty parts with stainless steel and I haven't decided if I should go with stainless steel screws or pop rivets, and there seems to be quite a split of opinion in this community. Screws are easier for me b/c I don't have a riveter but I will do what ever will keep my Scamp in the best shape for the long term.

I am super pumped to get started but I have to get through the end of this summer semester. I am in nursing school and am wrapping up finals before I dive into this project over the break.

I haven't even mentioned the awning that I need to deal with. There is an old Shademaker bag awning that is bolted to the roof with about 20 bolt. I want to remove the awning all together as it is in such bad shape but then I am left with so many holes! Any advice on fixing those? Do I fill them with some sort of epoxy?

@Kai - she doesn't have a name yet! I'll post pics soon.
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Old 07-27-2018, 08:11 PM   #17
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Name: Kate
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So searching around on the forum, found this conversation and
this product:
PC Products PC-Marine Moldable Epoxy Putty, White by PC Products
Link: http://a.co/1iIPZBd

Looks like that epoxy will be a good option for the removal of the awning rail and the repair of the holes.

Now just have to decide on the rivets or ss screws . . .
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Old 07-27-2018, 10:17 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by kate8888 View Post
. I haven't even mentioned the awning that I need to deal with. There is an old Shademaker bag awning that is bolted to the roof with about 20 bolt. I want to remove the awning all together as it is in such bad shape but then I am left with so many holes! Any advice on fixing those? Do I fill them with some sort of epoxy?
Might want to rethink a total removal Kate. If the awning is in a Kedar rail and the bag will slide out....I'd leave the rail in place for now. That rail is the same type many other awning use if you should decide to go with a different type of awning. If it doesn't leak you're ahead of the game .
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Old 07-27-2018, 10:30 PM   #19
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If you don't want to go to the effort of replacing hardware, clean the rust, then buy a spray can of "Chrome" spray paint.

Spray the paint into the lid then brush paint all the affected metal.
It looks great and lasts for years, then you just touch it up occasionally.
I don't have a gravel guard but I know the hardware on it is especially rust prone. Those latches are available at your local hardware store, but the new ones aren't any better than the OEM.
So paint or replacement will again be inevitable.

Here is an example which was painted a few years ago when I extended the holder...
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Old 07-28-2018, 07:15 AM   #20
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Name: Kathleen (Kai: ai as in wait)
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Pop riverters aren't particularly expensive; try someplace like Harbor Freight if you have one nearby.

You mentioned the awning on the other post, I believe? Always good to do a thread with only one basic topic as that way the answers are more focused and you aren't left with a topic hanging, as that seems to have been. I agree, the rail, if it's sound and not leaking, isn't causing any problems could just be left. We left Peanut's awning rail alone even though we decided to buy inexpensive "Z-shade" pop ups from Kmart.

But we didn't have an awning to start with when we got Peanut. Just the rail. But it's a little like cutting off your small toe just because you hardly ever use it. If it's not actually causing problems, just let it be. That's my thought on awning railings. Did I miss the question?

Looking forward to the pics and name! some of us take years to find the right thing to call our eggs. Some never name them. But you can find some fun threads on FGRV under "trailer names" and such searches.

BEST
Kai

PS We, too, have painted hardware. Ace "Chrome" spray paint is about as shiny a silver as we've found anywhere. Even it isn't always really "chrome" depending on what you spray it onto. But it's a pretty good product.
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