Is POR-15 paint worth it if I'm not removing the body?

[montereyfgrv]

My 2006 Casita needs some TLC on the frame. There is minor rust and it could use a fresh coat of paint. I've never done this before so I've been searching here and the web for the process and tools of choice. And no surprise, there are million ways to do this..

I've got some questions I'm hoping someone may help answer:

1. Is it necessary to remove the body from the frame in order to paint the frame? Every youtube video and picture I've come across in the past hour shows an empty frame being painted. I was thinking I could paint the frame while it's still attached to the body (and just tape off the body), but that appears to be an inferior approach.

2. To my title question (I guess I've already gone off topic haha), if I want to get the epic sounding POR-15, considering how it's A permanent solution, is it only worth investing in POR if you take the body off and paint the top of the frame as well?

3. And if i'm going with a non-POR product (I've seen some rustoleum products also recommended, particularly a rust protection product).....can I simply sand down rust spots with sandpaper, down to the point where the rust is not visible any more? And then degrease, and paint? Again, I'm a newbie and trying to figure out the simplest process as I don't have much in the way of fancy tools. Google and Youtube have only muddied the waters for me.

Thanks.

[Glenn Baglo]

Read the instructions for POR-15 and then decide if it is really worth the effort.

[Bill in Pittsburgh]

Originally Posted by montereyfgrv

2. To my title question (I guess I've already gone off topic haha), if I want to get the epic sounding POR-15, considering how it's A permanent solution, is it only worth investing in POR if you take the body off and paint the top of the frame as well?

I'm not qualified to address all your questions but I have been using POR-15 for many years. A very different animal from Rustoleum. POR-15 is applied over rust which I wouldn't waste my time doing with rustoleum or any other kind of paint. POR-15 is a VERY good product but I would not describe it as a permanent solution. It is quick and easy but is not better than a good sanding to remove rust, primer, and paint.
This is an interesting thread and I will be curious to hear other's experience.

[GOB]

I'll be following this topic also as I may need to address minor issues on my Scamp 19.

[mary and bob]

I wouldn't even think about removing the body from the frame. I would at least wire brush the frame and then use the POR 15. When I used the black POR 15 on the frame of our casita it didn't hold the gloss finish, went kinda flat after awhile. I've seen discussion about putting another paint over it but you'll have to read the directions on that. What I do know is use a throw away brush because you'll never be able to clean it. If you get any on you, you'll probably have to wait until it wears off. If you get any paint in the can lip, clean it out best you can and put cling wrap over the can before putting the lid on or you'll never get it off again. I buy the smallest cans so if the paint does dry in the can or the lid has to be cut off I'm not wasting much of it.

[Mike_L]

Your frame has rusted because moisture has contacted bare metal, likely because the original coating has been lost over time. While there are products that can be applied over rust, this should be considered a temporary fix and not the best option if you plan on keeping your unit for some time.
A more permanent solution is to sandblast the frame to bare metal, repair any significant rust and then apply a self-etching primer and a high quality paint.
You will have difficulty sandblasting some parts of the frame if it is still attached to the body so sandblasting will be incomplete and rusting in these areas will continue.
I have used box liner instead of paint in these situations as it is more durable and better resists abrasion from road debris.

[mosquito13]

I restore old Ford Flaresides as a hobby. Every one gets either por15 or KBS products on underside and floor boards ,cowling. Under side doesn't need to be top coated so one less step. I got turned on to por15 when working offshore. Still need to do surface preparation. Do it right and will last a lifetime. As to price , you get what you pay for. If you go cheap look at rustoleams marine paint and add a catalyst hardener. With por15 and KBS get the small cans . Cost a little more but as stated there is no resealing the can for long term storage. Also for tween coats put some clear wrap between lid and can or you will be cutting lid off.

[montereyfgrv]

Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo

Read the instructions for POR-15 and then decide if it is really worth the effort.

It’s a spray/wipe to clean, spray/wipe to prep, then paint on. IMO, seems easier than sand, prime and paint. Maybe I’m missing something…

[montereyfgrv]

Mosquito- can you elaborate on the surface prep to do it right? I’ve read the product instructions on their webpage, but wondering if you’ve got something to add to that, given your experience.

[mosquito13]

Depends on the project. Some I sand blast to bare metal; some I wire brush. Don't think you don't need to remove 90% of the rust to get quality results. Their prep videos are verry good. For my Casita it was just surface rust so as thread originator plans, I just taped off the frame and got it on three sides. If treated surface is going to be exposed to sun must topcoat. I mostly use the pint cans of gloss black for surfaces I do not need to topcoat. Exposed to light I go for flat, with the logic topcoat will adhere better. KBS has a product called Black Top I like for top coating. Do look at KBS Coatings products. Actually, like their customer service better, though both companies have been awesome to work with. Been using these products for over 20 years. I have gone cheap on budget builds and used Restorium marine paint with good result, though longevity is unknow to me as these were flipper projects. Biggest recommendation I can give is to go to their web sites, read watch vids, call customer service if you have any questions. https://por15.com https://www.kbs-coatings.com

Use xylene to thin and clean up por15 and KBS rust seal.

I do not always use their rust convertor/ ospho http://ospho.com. For vertical or worse above my head undersides I will use Corroseal. There are some bad reviews, but I think this is mostly due to user error. https://corroseal.com/

[Glenn Baglo]

I have a half pint of Rustoleum and a disposable brush. Touch up any chips, toss the brush and seal the can.

[Eggman]

I've used POR15 in different types of applications to test it and I don't like it at all. It is ultraviolet affected which won't matter under your trailer. I wire brushed the interior floor of my rusty S10 and it came off. I was told you can't use laquer thinner as a cleaner so thats why it came off.
I used it on the underside of my everyday beater where it started to rust at pinch welds and all the other spots. It was alot of work using the other recomended pre products which pretty much doubled the price per quart and water rinse, had to wait a couple days to dry car and shop. 3yrs later it was rusting under POR15 and couldn't get the stuff off.
With that all said I have used a product called Silver Bullet on my brush hog were the deck has actually rusted away to nothing. I power washed it, wire brushed what I could, washed it again and wiped it down with thinner. Painted it with 2 cotes. Its been sitting outside for years. I clean the pine needles off it once in awhile and am amazed on how it still hasn't rusted.
So if your a POR15 lover I'm happy for you, its just not for me.
Oh yeah, I do have it painted under my trailer were I did frame mods to it.
Doug

[Eggman]

Correction:
Since I'm gettin old I guess I have CRS.
The product is Rust Bullet not Silver Bullet. Must of been thinkin bout the Loan Ranger, but the paint is silver in color.

[RollinMike]

It isn't that big of a deal to remove the frame. Don't listen to people are don't work in the trades, who don't own the trailer, saying you don't need to remove it. They are the same people who let their frame rot out until it breaks on the interstate putting other people's lives at risk.


Remove the frame, prep it by sand blasting, and then paint it. Doing this and using walmart's $1 spray paint is better than some of the advise above.

[DuaneQ]

POR 15 is very good. I have used it for many years and on many projects. I have done 2 car gas tanks and the filler tubes with it. It is a 3 step process. Follow the directions and it will work well. It is not UV resistant so you have to cover it with paint. If the POR 15 covered parts will not have UV rays "sun" shinning on it you don't have to paint over it.

I removed the frame from My 78 Burro and used POR15 on it a few years ago. I covered the POR15 with two coats of gloss black Rustoleum oil base paint. Tough stuff but needs to be done right.

I buy 6 four ounce cans of POR15 now. I started with a quart but that stuff is pretty hard to work with because it sticks so well you may not get the cover off the the cans unless you clean the top of the can and the lid very well. I also put plastic over the can before I put the lid back on.

Also wear gloves!!! Reviews on Amazon below.



https://www.amazon.com/POR-15-45006-...0J2VULQ6&psc=1

[matthfam]

Since rust is caused by moisture attacking the bare metal, and given that the top of the frame is covered by the floor of the trailer, there should be very little rust there if any. I have the same job ahead. There is no scaling just surface rust. So much easier.

[Eggcentric]

Originally Posted by montereyfgrv

My 2006 Casita needs some TLC on the frame. There is minor rust and it could use a fresh coat of paint. I've never done this before so I've been searching here and the web for the process and tools of choice. And no surprise, there are million ways to do this..

I've got some questions I'm hoping someone may help answer:

1. Is it necessary to remove the body from the frame in order to paint the frame? Every youtube video and picture I've come across in the past hour shows an empty frame being painted. I was thinking I could paint the frame while it's still attached to the body (and just tape off the body), but that appears to be an inferior approach.

2. To my title question (I guess I've already gone off topic haha), if I want to get the epic sounding POR-15, considering how it's A permanent solution, is it only worth investing in POR if you take the body off and paint the top of the frame as well?

3. And if i'm going with a non-POR product (I've seen some rustoleum products also recommended, particularly a rust protection product).....can I simply sand down rust spots with sandpaper, down to the point where the rust is not visible any more? And then degrease, and paint? Again, I'm a newbie and trying to figure out the simplest process as I don't have much in the way of fancy tools. Google and Youtube have only muddied the waters for me.

Thanks.

Lived for 8 yrs on a steel sailboat, also ran a trailer building company for 4 more.
Find some Ospho a gallon will suffice, paint it on to the frame, it will turn the ferrous oxide into ferrous sulphate, let it sit for 1/2 hour, do not let it dry, then hose it off, the ferrous sulphate will wash right off. Then apply your paint.
Ospho is a better version of naval jelly, about as acidic as vinegar, it will clean up bicycle rims & chain, chrome & stainless. It is dilute phosphoric acid.
With the sailboat in tropics rust is a constant. Have to paint any scratch ASAP, and before the paint Ospho, saves hours of scraping and sanding.

[tom_gav]

To offer up another rust proof paint, I've had good luck with Master Series Silver on a vanagon, a jeep, and a 4Runner.

Pretty easy prep. Goes on easily with a brush (foam brushes as I recall) but don't get it on your skin or anything that you don't want silver! A couple of coats should do it. I wouldn't bother top coating unless you have to have your frame black.

MasterSeriesCT Coating Line Rust Prevention - Product Info

[James does]

There's no substitute for prep work. I is see it as not doing it and applying a finish as wasting time and money. Yo'll be back at it again spend twice as much time and at least the same amount of money.

I pretty sure if your frame is rusting it is rusting between the body and the upper flange/srface probably worse there of all places.

My method - Sand, scrape sandblast. I then use Penetrol Made by Flood straight out of the can ,A little goes a long way apply one coat I then add about 15% Penetrol to my first coat of Rust paint (Tremclad) none to the last two coats, I always apply three coats. Work pretty well. I live in Canada were we salt the roads and i have utility trailers done this way. (8 trailers in my fleet)
Also I protect front surface with ABS sheet to stop the stone chipping a subsequent rusting. I also oil spray my trailer frames including my Trillium .
This all seems to work quite well.

[Eggcentric]

The chemistry involved with using Ospho is well known in the marine industry, in no way is it a short cut. But if you want to feel righteous about the love you give your iron.................

THE ULTIMATE IS.
Get the frame sandblasted, then paint it with one of the marine epoxy glues, then while the glue is still a little sticky on the surface spray on what ever paint you like.
We did this with the hull of our sailboat sandblasting the steel leaves micro pits that the epoxy hooks onto, and by painting while the glue is tacky has the effect of glueing the paint to the steel and was the best finish I have ever seen on the hull of a steel boat.

But we are only talking about a trailer here, wash it with Ospho every 10 years and spray it with a rattle can of decent paint and your trailer frame will live longer than you will.

You can buy Ospho from Amazon.
When we built trailers, before the steel was brought inside from the outdoor storage rack, it was put on a couple of saw horses, and Ospho was brushed on, then after about 10 minutes was rinsed off with a hose. Did not matter how rusty or oily, that was all the prep it needed. That was in the 1980's and some of the trailers we built are still in service. Lest you think we were a backyard operation, we had 25 full time employees on the shop floor.