Loose screws in 2015 Scamp bath door - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 04-17-2016, 06:27 PM   #21
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The bath door fell off going thru Mojave preserve. Left it off & replaced with tension rod & shower curtain. Luckily door fit along front side couch as had 2 more weeks to travel. Fridge door also fell off that trip. Still finding screws in scampi!


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Old 06-21-2016, 09:05 PM   #22
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I can report that I removed the bath door, put GO2 glue in all the screw holes from the hinge to door side and reinstalled the door. That was 6K miles ago at my brothers house in GA. Now back in CA the door is doing fine showing no sign of hinge coming loose. I think I'll replace the door sometime with a natural wood louvered door which will be lighter weight and allow air flow. But no hurry now.

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Old 06-21-2016, 09:24 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by julmar View Post
The bath door fell off going thru Mojave preserve. Left it off & replaced with tension rod & shower curtain. Luckily door fit along front side couch as had 2 more weeks to travel. Fridge door also fell off that trip. Still finding screws in scampi!


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Are you saying that you had been showering without a shower curtain up until you lost the door??
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Old 06-21-2016, 09:44 PM   #24
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12 years and 70,000 miles of use on our Scamp 13D,and the only screws which have come out were two on the sheet metal furnace cover. The doors, other than the entry door and the bathroom door are all solid oak with oak veneer plywood panels. The frames of the cabinets are solid oak.
The bulkhead and the bathroom door are laminated cabinet grade MDF with plastic on one side and oak veneer on the other, perfect and stable after more than a decade.
This thread has made me feel much more responsible than I have ever imagined until now....THANX
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Old 06-21-2016, 10:31 PM   #25
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I love my mod, and the shower curtain matches the window curtains. I made the shower curtain very wide, and it can be draped over the toilet to keep the shower water mostly in the shower pan.
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Old 06-22-2016, 12:04 PM   #26
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This looks really practical. No more stepping aside to let someone out of the bathroom. You'd have better airflow too. Love it! Thanks for sharing.
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Old 06-22-2016, 12:34 PM   #27
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I've had more problems out of the latches than I have hinges. I used toothpics or similar wood and CA glue to go back with the screws. I havent had any more issues with the screws where I've performed this fix.
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Old 06-22-2016, 02:09 PM   #28
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I've had more problems out of the latches than I have hinges. I used toothpics or similar wood and CA glue to go back with the screws. I havent had any more issues with the screws where I've performed this fix.
That's not a bad way to make a repair! I have a cutter for making wooden plugs, I have drilled holes where the screws were located and plugged them with plugs that I cut. The advantage is that the screws do not go into end grain, so they hold better.
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Old 06-22-2016, 02:13 PM   #29
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I like that idea even better Dennis! I got a Craftsman tool kit free not too long ago with some "points" and it has "Brad bits" in it. They would be excellent for drilling the holes I think for the plugs. Just got to watch and make sure they dont go all the way through! lol.

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That's not a bad way to make a repair! I have a cutter for making wooden plugs, I have drilled holes where the screws were located and plugged them with plugs that I cut. The advantage is that the screws do not go into end grain, so they hold better.
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Old 06-22-2016, 02:45 PM   #30
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I like that idea even better Dennis! I got a Craftsman tool kit free not too long ago with some "points" and it has "Brad bits" in it. They would be excellent for drilling the holes I think for the plugs. Just got to watch and make sure they dont go all the way through! lol.
Good point about drilling through. The brad point bits that I use have a very fast lead and pull through very quickly. A depth stop is in order.
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Old 06-22-2016, 02:47 PM   #31
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Hilarious! Now that you mention it, the kit ALSO came with set collars for the bits. Good stuff Dennis! I'll "test" if I ever use the wood method before going "live" on my Scamp doors!

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Good point about drilling through. The brad point bits that I use have a very fast lead and pull through very quickly. A depth stop is in order.
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Old 06-23-2016, 11:37 AM   #32
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When we were shopping I looked at the Deluxe. A salesman told me they were solid wood. While I assumed veneer plywood it never occurred to me they would use MDF, especially in a bathroom. I assumed Doug's was a Deluxe but rereading after my second cup of coffee I see he did say door. My turn

That said, I find the MDF use very disappointing. I'd replace the door with some AC plywood. Raz
Replacing the door with AC plywood would be a denegration since the bulkhead and the door on the deluxe are made of an engineered material with plastic on one side and Oak(or Birch) on the other. It is very stable and after 12years of regular use, mine looks and performs as well as the first day.
Why would you choose AC grade plywood and not something with more plies and good on both sides?
I do of course agree that a shower curtain properly used will help to protect the door and the floor outside the bathroom.
You recommended not getting the door wet... does that mean one should also refrain from feeding it after midnight?
I know some trailers seem to be plagued with Gremlins, especially those with a screw loose!...
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