Lubing crank-handles on jalousie windows

[Raya]

I have a Boler with the usual two-pane, rectangular, jalousie (crank-out) windows next to the rear bed/dinette. They are not broken, and operate just "fine," but the crank handles are very stiff (hard to turn).

I would like them to be easier to operate, and indeed, I'm afraid I might strip one if I continue to crank them when they are so stiff, even though they do open and close the windows this way.

Does anyone know the procedure for lubing these? Also, is there a specific type of lube that is recommended (grease, oil, or etc.)?



Raya

[CliveAlive]

I used PBlaster.

I don't know if there's a better more specific lube. That's one I use for a lot of stuff.

It woked well on my windows.

[Raya]

Which of the "PB Blaster" products did you use? I'm (all too) familiar with their "Penetrating Catalyst," as I've had to use it to free up a number of seized or corroded metal parts on boats. I absolutely detest the smell, but sometimes I have to live with it.

I see that they do have a few products that would work as lubricants, namely their white lithium grease, their Garage Door Lube, and their PB-50; did you use one of those? (I'm just going to pray they don't all smell like the Penetrating Catalyst ) And could you tell me if you used it because of a specific recommendation from the window manufacturer that was in a manual or something? (Not that one always needs such a recommendation -- or even chooses to use that particular product in light of newer things on the market, of course; I'm just wondering if there was a recommended product).

Where exactly did you lube the crank handles? Did you take anything off, or apart to do so?

Thanks for the info

Raya

[Chris L.]

Hi Raya,
I have the same kind of windows in my Scamp. What you will want to lubricate is the hinge part of each window. ( You can access them when the window is cranked wide open) I use WD-40 on mine. Mine were getting a bit stiff to crank, shot some oil on the hinges and they work great again. So now, every once in the while while cleaning the windows, I give them a bit of WD-40 and alls well. Good luck. Chris

[Bill and Jacquie G.]

Hello from Oregon! Bill here.

Ah yes, rusty stuck parts on boats, old cars, bikes and jalousie windows. Been there - Done that, THIS WEEK!!! Please be gentle when you open the windows about one to two inches.

BP Blaster/ Penetrating Catalyst is probably just right for the job, particularly since you have it on hand. (I know it stinks - - be strong!!!) I use a product called Break Free with good results but it too has a certain "air" about it. If you can attach the little "red straw" to the spray nozzle you will have the best success.

Outside the trailer, facing the window, grasp one corner of the window and lift up gently. Peek under the window and look to either side and watch the moving parts to locate the pivot points as you move the window up and down. These pivot points are where you apply the "secret sauce". No need to saturate the area; just aim a little high and let it run down into the pivots. Nice 'n Easy, Little by Little, work your way around the trailer. Let the penetrating oils do their job. Take a break.
Good Job!!!!!!!

[Raya]

Aha! So it's not the cranks themselves that need lubing, but the hingey bits. Thanks!

Why didn't I think of that?

I think of things like WD-40 and PB Blaster (penetrating catalyst) as "get-un-stuckers," with some lubricity, but not as longer-term lubricants Nevertheless, knowing that it's the hinge bits that need lubing is great, and I can always consider a different product to lube them with.

(Still open to others' thoughts on the lubricant part.)

Raya

PS: I've been using "Kroil" in place of the unmentionable product with the horrible smell

[Raya]

Thinking about this further, I imagine that one wouldn't want a "greasy" sort of grease in this area, as it might tend to collect dirt. I'm considering using McLube Sailkote, which is an aerosol product intended to lube thing such as sail-track on aluminum masts, and/or other sliding hardware in the marine environment.

It's a "dry" lubricant, and contains no silicones (yay!) The MSDS says it's a "flouropolymer," although I have to admit that I don't really know what that means.

Here's what Jamestown Distributors has to say about it:

McLube Sailkote is specially formulated with Dupont Krytox, an easily applied environmentally friendly translucent liquid lubricant specifically designed for marine use.
It dries quickly to a hard, smooth, ultra-slick, hydrophobic dry coating that bonds tenaciously to almost any surface. And because Sailkote is a dry lubricant, it will not attract dirt or contaminants and will not transfer to other surfaces, or you.

Sailkote is typically five times as effective, and lasts much longer than, wax, oil or PTFE based lubricants.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userp...duct.do?pid=551

I haven't decided on this for sure yet, but it's a contender. Sailors and boatyards like it and use it, for what that's worth.

Raya

[Bill and Jacquie G.]

Raya/Chris

Great minds are on the same wave length!!!!

My some what long and drawn out message comes from too many years of messing about with projects where we had no replacement parts. Consequently I've become a coward.

It's common for the crank systems to strip out and there are replacement parts, but I'm
still a little timid. When the crank system and the pivot points resist I let them soak for a while. Latter you can come back and move the windows up and down by hand and you'll be startled when the window will move up and down four to six inches. (my gaud, waut hav I dun?) WD-40 is a good product and we all have used it. What ever you choose, let us know about the results.
.
Bill

[Bill and Jacquie G.]

Ahoy Raya

I have " MY Can" of SailKote in my hand and may I direct your attention under the comforting words:
Easy To Apply:
"For Optimum Adhesion Thoroughly Clean Surface With Solvent Prior To Application And
Let Dry. Shake Can ----------"

I'm going to bed now. Good night.

Bill

P.S. This is a family web site so I guess we should postpone asking each other if we have barnacles on our bottoms?
B

[Raya]

I was actually wondering if I would be able to get the jalousie hinges clean enough. I don't think I want to know if acetone comes in an aerosol can!

Of course maybe things don't have to be surgically clean; I can't see people swabbing out the mast track of a sailboat 60 feet above deck with a Q-tip, after all. Hmm, joking aside, maybe a Q-tip and some acetone would be just the thing for cleaning the Boler window hinges prior to applying Sailkote!

As you say, at least we don't have to deal with bottom paint

Raya

[Tim Wood]

When I have something that I want to lube and don't want the mess of oil,grease, silicone etc. I use graphite.

[Raya]

I wonder if graphite might be corrosive to aluminum in a moist environment

Heh, I probably sound like a nut, but in the boating industry ones mind always moves immediately to "okay, what damage can this particular thing or course of action cause?" The saltwater environment is pretty hostile, so it's not just paranoid thinking either (she says, in her defense).

Granted, the typical Boler environment is probably not too salty, but there is always the possibility of camping or living near the sea.

And I do appreciate everyone's input, even if (I worry that) it may not sound like I do.



Raya

[Joe Diaz]

I wonder if graphite might be corrosive to aluminum in a moist environment

Heh, I probably sound like a nut, but in the boating industry ones mind always moves immediately to "okay, what damage can this particular thing or course of action cause?" The saltwater environment is pretty hostile, so it's not just paranoid thinking either (she says, in her defense).

Granted, the typical Boler environment is probably not too salty, but there is always the possibility of camping or living near the sea.

And I do appreciate everyone's input, even if (I worry that) it may not sound like I do.



Raya

Hey raya the 2 things that you absolutly need when you travel are WD 40 and Duct tape.......If it moves and it isn't suppose to ...Duct tape it......If it is suppose to move and it doesn't....WD 40

[Frederick L. Simson]

Granted, the typical Boler environment is probably not too salty...

Except for some old salts who frequent this website...
Frederick
USNR-Retired

[Raya]

Okay, I'm back still with the original question.

I had asked if anyone had lubed the crank handles on their jalousie windows, just so I could get some advance tips on how/where to take them apart, put the lube, etc.

A couple of people suggested that it was probably actually the hinge/pivot points that were stiff, and to lube those.

Well, I got in and lubed all of the pivot points really well with Boeshield T-9, then ran the windows open and closed a few times. Still just as stiff as before.

Let that sit a few days just in case it would soak in. Nope. No change.

So.... has anyone lubed the crank handles on their jalousie windows? If so, do you have any particular tips before I have a go?

Thanks,

Raya

[PaintyLiz]

did you ever get an answer on how to lubricate the crank handles? I need help with this.

thanks!

Liz

[Ian G.]

Sorry Liz but if you notice the date of the last post it is Oct 30, 2009.

Stiff Jalousie windows can be caused by a number of things:

1. stiff or hardened seals
2. dirty or binding pivots in the actuator arms or window pane pivots
3. worn or dirty operator (the part the crank handle connects to)
4. trailer body out or square which is causing the window frame to distort and bind

Initially try spraying some WD40 onto all the pivot points and inside the crank operator, this will help clean and lubricate the parts.