Posting today on this link the removal and installation of - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-13-2021, 04:47 AM   #1
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Removal and installation of Hehr Windows

1978 1700 model from Earlton Boler works with HEHR windows.
Have never found info on this model of Hehr windows. Did first window yesterday pictures of the process to posted here today, as window was done.
Have already replaced one pane of glass and rubber glazing on all windows except the front window it needs its own post.
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Old 06-13-2021, 05:25 AM   #2
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Inside pictures of window

Start of details inside veiw; window molding has mostly original 1/2" #10 hot dip galvanized screws that are being replaced with stainless screws of same size.
Some screws are not original, they are longer zinc screws. The zinc screws rusted and where 3/4 inch long. The longer screws did some damage to window frame inside due too extra length; causing some leakage back into trailer. The picture lower left screw went into the weir area and leaked back into the trailer with each rain.
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Old 06-13-2021, 06:04 AM   #3
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Window curtain mount

Window curtain mounts are over top of the window frames screws. They had aluminum rivets like right had picture. Head of rivet was drilled away and then rod pulled off remaining part of rivet to not make hole bigger. Remaining rivet was cut close to frame and then the inside end with rivet nail pulled free; This is only on the windows that have not been removed and resealed yet as they have original rivets.

Hole was chamfered in rod so screw would be flush.

All windows will have 3/4" #6 stainless wood screws like left screw in the picture. For future window resealing.
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Old 06-13-2021, 09:01 AM   #4
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Sealing window

Window with tape on and caulking used for all holes that went too deep into window; dab of caulking was put on with finger into other side of hole where new screws would not be reaching.

Closes off the over penetration of long screws. Will stop water coming into the inner frame area and leaking down the inside wall.

The inside frame part when installed pulls the window in tight and needs to be retightened after sitting a bit to finish bedding the window. These windows have no wood used inner metal frame completes the unit.

Cleaned up excess tape after window was installed.

If more pictures would help just ask.
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Old 06-17-2021, 04:54 AM   #5
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Borden - Would you know were a replacement screen frame could be found? I'm missing on from the front street side.
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Old 06-23-2021, 10:24 AM   #6
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Would take frame to weld shop and have the holes welded, then grind down and polish. Just because you use stainless steel screws does not mean they will not corrode if they are magnetic, find some that are.NOT!
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Old 07-08-2021, 06:31 PM   #7
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Screen

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Originally Posted by Eric Frye View Post
Borden - Would you know were a replacement screen frame could be found? I'm missing one from the front street side.
We got a replacement stove down south, was scrapped out of a boler 1700 stove was exact size as our old unit. Had been looking for years.
Will ask my wife if she has the info on the place we got the stove from as they salvaged parts from old trailers.

Ian Giles may still have some boler parts and he did sell t molding.
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Old 07-08-2021, 06:37 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by barrry smithe View Post
Would take frame to weld shop and have the holes welded, then grind down and polish. Just because you use stainless steel screws does not mean they will not corrode if they are magnetic, find some that are.NOT!
There are a lot of holes that went through but they are not visible on assembly so hoping that caulking will work. Two of the long screws even reached the inside of the outside flange 1 1/4" and correct size would be 1/4" to 3/8" max #8 screws.

Thanks did do the magnet test.
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Old 07-10-2021, 11:02 AM   #9
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Water water everywere

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Originally Posted by barrry smithe View Post
Would take frame to weld shop and have the holes welded, then grind down and polish.
The first hole was direct and flush with weir and leak inside. They missed the track and water was more than acceptable; second was through track into cavity area between inner and outer window flanges.

2 screws went into weir area.

Only six missed track or too long of a screw on this window frame. Bedding tape was dried out most places and no longer working adding to problem with leaking at inside base of window into trailer andm also back under encilite in places. Worst leak area on this window was again missed track and directly into weir area with screw created a water highway back into trailer at window base.

One window 3 screws used actually reached the inside of the outside window flange.

Glad it is being fixed; Barry you are right about welding will have to do so in future. One at a time. Cost?
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Old 07-10-2021, 12:22 PM   #10
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About to try G/flex 650 two part Epoxy says waterproof made for marine for the holes in rear window frame today.
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Old 07-12-2021, 09:59 PM   #11
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Replace two panes of glass today finishing the last two windows. Next need rain to test our work.

We are hoping for no more window leaks!

Two of the windows leaked a lot this year; day after we got home. Main problem was bedding tape was old and failed. Windows had damage from some long screws used, chip in center of one pane, old tape and seal problems.

Past;
Blamed the sink vent, blamed belly band, but main problem was windows.

Windows, windows and windows. Weirs contributed, seals were part of the problem, main problem was bedding tape failure and the screws that were to long and/or not in correctly.

Should get rain tonight so will know if we have success on last three windows, already know that three windows are water tight from last rain.

We had nice weather during our camping trip.

Water! Had a problem this year with the plumbing that was upgraded about 12 years prior. Fix was quick and had the tools needed on hand. It was a fun camping trip to MacGregor park thanks in part to the weather. Rain started after we got home that is when we learned that we had a problem with all the windows lol.

Will repair and reinstall original boler curtain brackets next and hang curtains for our next trip to MacGregor Park.
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Old 07-15-2021, 09:54 AM   #12
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I've used the same stainless screws on these windows and you need to be careful. They don't handle the same torque that the steel ones can. I've twisted the heads of a few, making for a difficult removal.
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Old 07-15-2021, 11:15 AM   #13
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Chinese no doubt
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Old 07-15-2021, 12:03 PM   #14
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It is common knowledge that stainless steel fasteners have less strength than steel fasteners of the same size and must be upgraded in size when used in situations where strength is critical. Galvanized steel, meaning "hot dip galvanized" is the fastener of choice when strength and corrosion resistance are critical. The idea that heads twisted off stainless steel fasteners is unlikely to be related to country of origin.

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Old 07-15-2021, 01:22 PM   #15
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316 ss, (CF8M) ANSI flanges have a lower pressure rating than their carbon steel, (A105) equivalents, up to 230C. After that they are equal.
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Old 07-15-2021, 02:30 PM   #16
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Chinese no doubt

It really is time to move on. Where do you think the device you used to type that was made?
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Old 07-15-2021, 02:37 PM   #17
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316 ss, (CF8M) ANSI flanges have a lower pressure rating than their carbon steel, (A105) equivalents, up to 230C. After that they are equal.
Anything over 180C and I just move to a cooler location. Thats why we have wheels.
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Old 07-15-2021, 03:51 PM   #18
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Anything over 180C and I just move to a cooler location. Thats why we have wheels.
Yeah, as I typed that, I realized how irrelevant the information was, I just though it interesting that the relative strength was temperature dependent.

Sorry.
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