Prepping a ParkLiner for Winter specifically - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-31-2019, 07:14 PM   #21
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Name: MJ
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Yes, Glenn, that is what I thought ..parallel = open. But I have watched 2 Casita "how to winterize" and both say to put the bypass valve in the parallel position to bypass - aka"close off "their hot water tanks...and from the video it looks like their hot water tanks look like what I have.

So is it bypassing when the valve is parallel or when it is perpendicular to the line...and does that rule apply to all the other valves (since some were turned one way and others were turned the other way)????

It is 36 degrees here and I have not made progress on winterizing. Temp to get down to 30 degrees for several hours tonight. I am worried about my camper.

Sure would like to hear some clear and definitive info from seasoned PL owners out there.
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Old 10-31-2019, 07:25 PM   #22
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In the diagram I posted, normal flow to the water heater would be from the left side to the right. When the valve is turned perpendicular, the flow is from the left to that pipe in the centre of the illustration. It bypasses the water heater.
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Old 10-31-2019, 07:53 PM   #23
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Thanks Huck. I am afraid some line coming into or under the camper might freeze
tonight.

I could open up my bench seats so the warm air inside gets to the fresh water tanks & the hot water tank but what about the city water intake outside? I disconnected the water line but wouldn't there be water in that line???

It will be between 30 and 32 degrees for several hours tonight (not just a couple).

I have heard that some people have camped in their f/g trailer in the winter (or Alaska) without damaging something but I have no clue how it is done.
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Old 10-31-2019, 08:09 PM   #24
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If like mine, there is a backflow valve in the city water inlet. I have to remove the screen ( it's like removing a washer from a hose ) and lightly press on the button in the centre. That will allow some water to dribble out. It's not much, but if it freezes, you have a problem.
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Old 10-31-2019, 08:33 PM   #25
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Glenn,
I tried unscrewing the metal attachment with the screen/filter inside and some water trickled out but it doesn't come off. It just spun and spun but never came off. I dont think it is supposed to.

So I insulated it by sealing a large piece of foam over the inlet. Do you think that will help any?
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Old 10-31-2019, 08:39 PM   #26
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You got that dribble of water. That's all that matters as far as I know.

I actually pump anti-freeze through the system ( bypassing fresh and hot water tanks ), using a hand pump and the city water inlet. Takes two people, one to pump and one to open the taps inside, one by one. When you see pink, you're good.
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Old 10-31-2019, 08:54 PM   #27
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PL hot water tank and valve in front of it

Glenn,

My valve doesn't look like your diagram.

Here is a pic of what I see...

When the red vale is pointing up (perpendicular to the line) it says "Off" and when the valve is parallel to the line (and the floor of the PL) it says "ON."

So do you think "OFF" means it is in bypass mode or "ON" mean it is in bypass mode?
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Old 10-31-2019, 09:09 PM   #28
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I think, in your picture, that flow to your water heater is stopped.


Have a look in the document centre for your water heater: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/d...p?do=cat&id=20
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Old 10-31-2019, 09:28 PM   #29
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I tried looking for info about the water heater somewhere on the actual heater but all I find is instructions for wiring it up...not even a brand name posted anywhere. So it is good that you knew where to look for the documents but I still do not know which one I have.

I poured in the rvantifreeze and am crossing my fingers now before I flip the Flojet switch.
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Old 10-31-2019, 09:44 PM   #30
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Well, pink fluid flowed everywhere but through the hot water faucets. Is that normal?

Perhaps because I am bypassing the hot water tank so I don't have anything to go through the hot water line?

I have not used the hot water tank since I had the camper checked out because I have been camping where there is a bath house and kitchen sink area so I didn't need to.
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Old 10-31-2019, 10:12 PM   #31
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Beats me. While I pump antifreeze through the city water inlet, my wife opens the taps, hot and cold, one at a time and shouts when she sees pink coming through. Since I don't know how your Parkliner is plumbed, I don't think I can help further.
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Old 11-01-2019, 09:03 AM   #32
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Hey, Glenn, you have been a BIG help because you hung in there with me.
Thank you very much.
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Old 11-01-2019, 09:09 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tinkerbelle View Post
Ok folks, what I (think) have done:

I closed the water tank on the port side of camper and I assume that it is somehow connected to the other water tank that is on the starboard side ...so that I only have to mess with the one by the Flojet.

I opened both valves that are:#1 to the left of hot water tank & #2 underneath and to the left of the hot water tank.

Then, I turned on all faucets and flushed the toilet. No water flowed, but like I said earlier, I have been using city water and I have not put any water in the fresh water tanks.

Then I closed the faucets and I closed the valve that I think is the hot water shut off valve by turning the valve perpendicular to the line....

however in this Youtube on winterizing Casitas the owner says the opposite... that if the valve is parallel to the line then it is in the "bypass" position: https://youtu.be/xxqWov7tjEQ This makes me question my thinking even though my research online says that for a ball valve when the valve is in the perpendicular position it is "closed."

This begs the question, does "close" = "bypass"? The valve I have simply says "Off' and "On." So, when the valve is "Off" does this mean the bypass mode is "off" and I should leave it parallel ("On") in order to be in "bypass mode"?

Now what do I do? I am unable to do the "blowout" method of winterizing.
Your plumbing is like mine. You did the right thing with the valve in front of the hot water tank, it should be perpendicular to that line to keep cold water/antifreeze out of the hot water tank aka bypass mode aka closed. When you opened (parallel to lines) the two valves to the left of the hot water tank and opened the faucets (air bleed), you allowed any water present in the pressurized hot & cold systems to drain out of the bottom of your camper. Now, to proceed winterizing all 4 valves need to be perpendicular to their water lines aka off aka closed.
Both fresh water tanks are interconnected and the valve under the pump drains both tanks. You can put the antifreeze in just one tank filler port per Parkline's instructions. I put a gallon separately in each tank. Your choice.
You can proceed with the rest of the Parkline instructions.
Next spring will be even more fun as you will have to flush the antifreeze out of water systems. You will have the valves down pat by the time you are done with the spring prep.
I did not answer you sooner as I had to figure out how to get photos out of a text message. I see you did get your photos posted.
You are right again that antifreeze will not come out of the hot water side of the faucets because the hot water side is shut off aka bypass. Not a worry as you have drained that system. I have never done anything to the city water connection and my camper has survived Virginia winters.
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Old 11-01-2019, 09:24 AM   #34
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Well, I kept heater running with the cabinets/bench seats opened to they would stay warm. At some point in the night I woke up to a very toasty camper - 72 degrees. It seems that the air temp did not drop as low as expected last night.

So, if there is anything else I need to do to the camper regarding the hot water faucets or the city water inlet...now is the time to tell me :-)
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Old 11-01-2019, 10:14 AM   #35
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The bypass valves do not close, they are three way valves that either route the water to the HW tank, or route it to the bypass.

Traditional "two way" valves tend to just have two positions: in line with piping = open, perpendicular to piping = closed.

All that being said, some valves have removable handles where a prior owner can move the valve handle to the opposite position and mess everything up!

The bypass should not affect whether you get antifreeze solution out of the hot water tap. The water just won't be heated. You should get antifreeze out of all taps, hot, cold, shower, toilet; as long as you have solution in the fresh water tank AND your water pump turned on.

A big reason for the bypass is to keep the "pink stuff" out of your HW heater. And if your hot water heater has an electric option, MAKE SURE its turned OFF. If the heater runs with the tank empty, you will damage/destroy the HW heater.

The picture on post 27 looks NOTHING like a bypass. Perhaps your heater does not have a bypass. If so, you will not get water out of a hot water faucet with the valve closed.

HW heater bypass is highly recommended! My old Casita did not have one, my newer Escape does. HW heaters can be modified to add a bypass. May require a plumber to install one. My guess right now is you have water in the HW plumbing from the HW heater exit to the individual taps. This water WILL freeze! Note, this is based on what I see in post #27.

Obvious, but I'll say it anyway. Bypassing the HW heater only works if your plumbing has an installed HW heater bypass. Otherwise, you have to run the pink stuff through the HW heater, which means using a lot more pink stuff. HW heater itself is 6 gallons. . Bypasses can be bought on Amazon or your camping supply source of choice.

If I were King for the day, I'd require all RV manufacturers to include a HW heater in their trailers.
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Old 11-01-2019, 10:43 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by Tinkerbelle View Post
Well, I kept heater running with the cabinets/bench seats opened to they would stay warm. At some point in the night I woke up to a very toasty camper - 72 degrees. It seems that the air temp did not drop as low as expected last night.

So, if there is anything else I need to do to the camper regarding the hot water faucets or the city water inlet...now is the time to tell me :-)
Just to be sure about the city water inlet line on the Parkliner, I went out to check mine. The city water line is connected at the Jet Flow pump outlet (pressure side) The only backflow preventer in this city water system is built into the hose fitting on the outside wall of the Parkliner. The check valves in the Jet Flow pump keep the city water out of your fresh water tanks That means the city water line will drain with the rest of the cold water system and refill with antifreeze when the pump is turned on. I verified this by pushing the center post of the hose fitting. Antifreeze under pressure came out,

Please remember that my advice is coming from an actual Parkliner owner whose Parkliner is sitting next to his garage. You will not get pink stuff out of your hot water faucets if you follow Parkline's instructions.
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Old 11-01-2019, 01:29 PM   #37
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Hi , I have been following this thread . On our Parkliner, turn valve off at cold water line going to water heater. Open valve for drain of water heater. Let drain. But one time no water came out,I knew it was full.I even opened the safety blow off valve to break vacuum and nothing happened. Reopened cold water line valve,turned on pump,then turned off pump and water started to flow. I turned off cold water line to water heater, let it drain dry. On hot water line from water heater that feeds shower and sink this may not be worth doing. Took panel off in bath room,lower left. Cut that red water line. Water did come out. Went to Lowes,got a shark bit valve with bleeder. I believe the size 3/8". Having bleeder pointing down. Take cap off bleeder found clear hose that fits on bleeder at Lowes . Fit other end of hose on hand pump dispenser, fill with pink fluid. Open shower handle for hot water, pump the pump, pink fluid comes out shower head. Turn shower handle off, turn sink knob to hot and open. Pump the pump till pink comes out. Close that hot water knob. Take clear hose of bleeder,don't worry about any fluid that leaks out. This is messy Return cap to bleeder. Done This is on 2019 Parkliner.
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Old 11-03-2019, 10:42 PM   #38
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Thank you! This is helpful!
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Old 11-04-2019, 05:24 PM   #39
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Name: Harry
Trailer: Parkliner
Virginia
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Parkliner water system drawing for Tinkerbell

Hi Tinkerbell,
Attached is a drawing I made of my 2013 Parkliner's water system. It may help you understand better the system and its valves. Re-reading your posts, I see that some of your questions were not directly answered and maybe this will help you.
HP in VA
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Old 11-04-2019, 05:28 PM   #40
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Name: Harry
Trailer: Parkliner
Virginia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ethan View Post
Hi , I have been following this thread . On our Parkliner, turn valve off at cold water line going to water heater. Open valve for drain of water heater. Let drain. But one time no water came out,I knew it was full.I even opened the safety blow off valve to break vacuum and nothing happened. Reopened cold water line valve,turned on pump,then turned off pump and water started to flow. I turned off cold water line to water heater, let it drain dry. On hot water line from water heater that feeds shower and sink this may not be worth doing. Took panel off in bath room,lower left. Cut that red water line. Water did come out. Went to Lowes,got a shark bit valve with bleeder. I believe the size 3/8". Having bleeder pointing down. Take cap off bleeder found clear hose that fits on bleeder at Lowes . Fit other end of hose on hand pump dispenser, fill with pink fluid. Open shower handle for hot water, pump the pump, pink fluid comes out shower head. Turn shower handle off, turn sink knob to hot and open. Pump the pump till pink comes out. Close that hot water knob. Take clear hose of bleeder,don't worry about any fluid that leaks out. This is messy Return cap to bleeder. Done This is on 2019 Parkliner.
Ethan, what prevented the antifreeze from backflowing to the HW tank. Does the 2019 Parkliner actually have a shutoff valve somewhere on the exit side of the HW tank?
HP in VA
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