Quantities of paint to repaint a boler

[Niall]

Hi guys,
I am about the get started on sanding down and totally repainting my 1970 13' Boler. Can anyone advise on the quantity of primer and main coat paint I would need to complete the job?
I am looking at the rust-oleum primer and main coat, both of which come in quarts, of course. How many quarts of each do you guys think I will need?

[FRED SMAILES]

I used Brightside on my boler but probably similiar volumes necessary.
I didnt use any primer, applied 2 coats sanding between coats and theres still at least another coat in the gal can.
From that I would think somewhere around a liter a coat but I would want at least 2 liters of each on hand.
Fred

[miarosa]

I just painted my 13' Trillium with the same paint- Rustoleum primer, above the waterliner for fiberglass, and the marine paint. I used 2.5 quarts of primer, for 2 coats with sanding in between. My gel coat was quite chalky to start. I used less for the 2 topcoats since it's only the lower portion of the trailer, but I hand mixed my color and yielded a larger amount (my inside fiberglass is the same color).

Get extra, in my opinion. It's nice to have extra for touch ups.

[DaveMinBako]

If this is the outside and you're looking at the bare, original fiberglass gelcoat, wash it with a dewaxer before sanding or painting.

[daveandbonscott]

I'd recommend you take the time to obtain a quote from a boat or RV painter just to see if doing it on your own is worth it. The potential of error is much diminished by going with the experts or at least, their advice

[Mike_L]

The volume of primer/paint you will need will vary depending on who does the application, how its applied, how thick you want each coat etc.

The more you buy the cheaper these products get. In my past experience, the price of two quarts may equal or be close to the price of a gallon.
Spray application is by far the best way to do it, better distribution, more even coverage etc. and much easier to sand between coats.
Primer helps the paint to stick and will fill minor surface imperfections. A "high solids" primer works best if you have a lot of minor imperfections.

After you have made any repairs necessary to the fiberglass, sand the entire unit with successively finer grit paper. I start with 120 grit.

Any imperfections that don't sand out are further repaired with glazing putty and sanded with the 120 grit. While paint will adhere to sanded fiberglass, a light coat of primer may help to identify remaining surface imperfections.

Sand the unit with 240 grit and repair any surface imperfections that don't sand out as before.
Sand entire unit with 320 grit.
Wipe exterior surface down well with degreaser.
Apply paint.
If you are spraying you are done.
If you are rolling or brushing, you likely want to fine sand again and apply successive coats. While it is possible to get a smooth shiny finish using this method it is very labor intensive and takes much time. A thick coat of paint is required as you will be sanding much of this off prior to the next coat.
You can also sand the final coat with 1000 or even 2000 grit water paper if you want a professional looking finish.
Good preparation is 99% of a successful paint job and imperative for a good finish. The paint seals the surface and provides even color. Think of the paint as the final "cover" of the work you have done.

I suggest you buy a quart of primer to begin. You can buy more if needed.

I suggest you buy a gallon of paint. If you buy quarts, mix them all together in case there is a color difference between cans before application.
The first step is always to wash your unit well with soap and water and then wipe down with a degreaser. Otherwise, you may be grinding dirt, dust, wax etc. into the surface to be painted which may impair paint adhesion.
Some shops will spray your unit for a minimal price if you do the preparation.