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Old 01-25-2021, 03:50 PM   #1
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Name: Tim
Trailer: Scamp
UT
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Questions about Scamp 16

I just purchased a 92 Scamp 16 and am slowly getting it sorted out. I have already gotten some good info from existing threads and thank those who take the time to help out. I have many questions, but here are a few:
From previous threads I found the two 30 A fuses. One was corroded and the cause of no interior lights. Why not run a wire from the battery to the inside of the camper and have the fuse(s) out of the weather? Also, can I eliminate one? Why 2 fuses?

The screws that hold the cooktop in place vibrate out in a few miles. Any reason not to use blue locktite on them?

I am replacing the interior bulbs with with LED. I am also considering replacing the taillights with LED. Do I have to change flasher in my Explorer tow vehicle?

The white exterior finish is dull. Polishing compound and wax? How about the metal rims around the windows?

That is a bunch, but hope I can get some help.
Cheers, and thanks in advance!
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Old 01-25-2021, 04:20 PM   #2
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Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tkemple View Post
I just purchased a 92 Scamp 16 and am slowly getting it sorted out. I have already gotten some good info from existing threads and thank those who take the time to help out. I have many questions, but here are a few:
From previous threads I found the two 30 A fuses. One was corroded and the cause of no interior lights. Why not run a wire from the battery to the inside of the camper and have the fuse(s) out of the weather? Also, can I eliminate one? Why 2 fuses?

The screws that hold the cooktop in place vibrate out in a few miles. Any reason not to use blue locktite on them?

I am replacing the interior bulbs with with LED. I am also considering replacing the taillights with LED. Do I have to change flasher in my Explorer tow vehicle?

The white exterior finish is dull. Polishing compound and wax? How about the metal rims around the windows?

That is a bunch, but hope I can get some help.
Cheers, and thanks in advance!
1] There should be one fuse on the positive post of the battery.
not sure about the second(aftermarket?)
The converter under the inside bench left side rear should have the interior fuses.


2] The screws that hold the cooktop are usually held in place by clip nuts which can be reflattened or easily replaced.


3] LEDs are agood choice for interior and taillights ... No need to change the flasher on your Explorer.


4] get some liquid carwash soap and make a thick solution with water (just a bit slimey) then use purple scotchbrite as a sponge to scrub the outside. Works great! then wax it.
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Old 01-25-2021, 11:13 PM   #3
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Two fuses

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Originally Posted by Tkemple View Post
I found the two 30 A fuses. One was corroded and the cause of no interior lights. Why not run a wire from the battery to the inside of the camper and have the fuse(s) out of the weather? Also, can I eliminate one? Why 2 fuses?
SOme of the older Scamps had two battery fuses. One on each side of the wall. There needs to be a fuse as close to the battery as possible. I'm not sure why there is one inside, it would fuse the tow vehicle power.
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Old 01-25-2021, 11:49 PM   #4
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Name: Lynn
Trailer: '06 Scamp 16
Rochester, New York
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The outside fuse on our '06 corroded. I tucked it into the battery box 10 years ago. Problem easily solved.

Our stovetop also unscrewed while traveling. I ran bolts up through the lower brackets, held at the correct height with two nuts each. The top is now held on with plastic washers and wingnuts. Another problem solved.

Also, make sure your tires are balanced. Everything stays together better.
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Old 01-26-2021, 09:35 AM   #5
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Name: Tim
Trailer: Scamp
UT
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Thanks for the info! Will buy purple scrub pad today. Going to put fuse inside camper unless I hear reason not to. Tire balance is so logical, but I never thought about it.

Anyone try to brighten up the anodized metal around the windows? I have clear silicone caulk along the aluminum beltline that has yellowed. Any ideas there?
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Old 01-26-2021, 10:34 AM   #6
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Trailer: 1979 Boler B1300
New Hampshire
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I have clear silicone caulk along the aluminum beltline that has yellowed. Any ideas there?
Silicone caulk remover and a LOT of elbow grease! I have the same problem on my 13 foot Boler. A previous owner was Silicone happy.
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Old 01-26-2021, 07:40 PM   #7
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Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tkemple View Post
...
From previous threads I found the two 30 A fuses. One was corroded and the cause of no interior lights. Why not run a wire from the battery to the inside of the camper and have the fuse(s) out of the weather? Also, can I eliminate one? Why 2 fuses?...
You put a fuse close to the battery because ANY wire BEFORE the fuse is unprotected. If you have 12 inches of wire from the battery positive terminal before the first fuse, and part of that 12 inches gets the insulation scraped off and touches the negative (ground) post or the frame (if it is "grounded" as it usually is) then you will have a disaster.

Now that means that sometimes the fuse is in the battery box. But the interior of the battery box with a non-sealed lead acid battery is corrosive. Lead + acid.. get the picture? And that means that the fuse holder and fuse contacts can corrode, causing increased resistance among other problems. Routine cleaning and repair as needed is called for.

A fuse holder right on the battery post offers the most protection since there is NO length of unprotected wiring. Corrosion is still an issue, but an AGM or sealed battery will reduce the corrosion problem by maybe 95-98%.

Can you eliminate of of the fuses? Perhaps, but the first fuse is sized to carry all of the current for the camper and there is wiring matched to that value. At some point the wiring branches out, and the wire size (gauge) of the branches usually becomes smaller. The smaller wire can carry less current and requires a fuse with a lower rating to protect it.

So I would not start making alterations to the fusing unless you are sure you know what you are doing. Just maintain them in good condition.
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Old 01-28-2021, 06:01 PM   #8
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Name: Tim
Trailer: Scamp
UT
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Thanks for all the help. I started out figuring a way to hold the battery box in place as there was just one piece of angle iron when I bought the trailer. I fashioned a bracket out of some scrap and it surrounds the box enough that I don't think it will move.

Then I addressed the fuses. If I knew for certain that the fuse just inside the camper was the same wire that entered from outside I would have just moved the outside fuse indoors. However, I couldn't be sure and as Gordon stated, I could do serious damage if I was wrong and something shorted near the battery. So I decided that what had worked for 20 years was probably ok and just replaced both with modern fuses in waterproof holders.

I also repainted what I could. I used a purple Scotchbrite to remove overspray and it worked great. I can't wait till it is warm enough to do the whole rig as it is very dingy.

I plan to order the factory decals once I get it polished up. Anyone done that job? I think I may take it to a shop for that one!

Anyone have experience with oversize tires? I'm thinking 15 inch, but would appreciate insight.

Thanks again![IMG][IMG]IMG_0260.JPG[/IMG][/IMG]
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Old 01-28-2021, 06:05 PM   #9
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I tried to post pictures but it isn't working
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Old 01-28-2021, 07:46 PM   #10
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Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
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I cant imagine that 15 inch tires would fit. I guess some have gone to 14 inch and some of those were OK.
As for decals.. I think more people remove Scamp decals then add them. They make it harder to polish and leave shadows when they wear out.
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Old 01-28-2021, 10:38 PM   #11
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14" tires

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Originally Posted by Tkemple View Post
Anyone have experience with oversize tires? I'm thinking 15 inch, but would appreciate insight

Thanks again![IMG][IMG]IMG_0260.JPG[/IMG][/IMG]
14" did not fit well on my 2017. I added a lift kit. Also, the two wheel openings were not the same shape, so I made a pattern from the one I liked and cut the other to match. BTW: Has your axle ever been changed? I like to see all of the wheel showing, if lower than that it may be time to have the axle checked.
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Old 01-28-2021, 10:43 PM   #12
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decals

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Originally Posted by Tkemple View Post
I plan to order the factory decals once I get it polished up. Anyone done that job? I think I may take it to a shop for that one![IMG][IMG]IMG_0260.JPG[/IMG][/IMG]
Scamp can sell you decals in gold or red. Also a good truck lettering and graphics company can do a the job. See the bottom of this page for my graphics. https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/registry/3511/
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Old 01-29-2021, 11:27 AM   #13
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Name: Tim
Trailer: Scamp
UT
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Can you tell me more about the lift kit? My axle is welded to the frame, so not sure how I could lift it. BTW 15 inch from my son's trailer weren't even close!
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Old 01-29-2021, 12:37 PM   #14
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Lift kit

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Can you tell me more about the lift kit? My axle is welded to the frame, so not sure how I could lift it. BTW 15 inch from my son's trailer weren't even close!
Weren't even close to fitting or hitting. If yours is welded it may be an original. Later years Scamp bolted them on and when people change the welded axles they get bolted/welded on. If you do need to change the axle you can get the lift from changing the angle of the arms. E-trailer sells a lift kit for bolted axles.

I changed to get better tires, the originals are rated for 60MPH max, my new tires are rated for 81 mph max. and the larger tire turns slower for the same speed.
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Old 01-29-2021, 05:04 PM   #15
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Name: Tim
Trailer: Scamp
UT
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Thanks for the quick reply, and photo! 15 inch were way too big. Lift kit seems like huge deal if welded in axle has to be cut out. I will go with the best 13 I can get, for now I guess. I was looking for a little more clearance, plus better tires.

BTW how did you get pic to download? I am used to being able to click and drag, or the site opening my photos. This one asked for file number which I gave, but the number just transcribed.
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Old 01-29-2021, 05:08 PM   #16
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Also, in looking at the axle, It definitely has a bow in it. But the entire tire still is visible in the wheel well. Is this a sign that it needs replacing? Ballpark estimate to have that done? I am good at mecanics but have never cut out a welded in axle.
Thanks again!
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Old 01-29-2021, 05:15 PM   #17
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AXel bow

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Originally Posted by Tkemple View Post
Also, in looking at the axle, It definitely has a bow in it. But the entire tire still is visible in the wheel well. Is this a sign that it needs replacing? Ballpark estimate to have that done? I am good at mecanics but have never cut out a welded in axle.
Thanks again!
All of my trailer of any kind have had a bow (center up ward) in the axle. If all of your tire is showing you are already higher than many. Most are lucky to have all of the wheel showing. It is had to find GOOD 13" RV tires but they are out there. I just ran across a photo posting thread and now can not find it, Ill look harder.
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Old 01-29-2021, 05:47 PM   #18
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Name: Tim
Trailer: Scamp
UT
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Growing up all the compact cars had 13 inch tires. They did well at any speed. I wonder why its harder now.

Etrailer lists a few radials with 81 MPH ratings. We need that here as we have speed limits that high. I brought it home from Vegas last weekend and arrived safely but with one tire shredded. Turns out they were 7 years old although they looked new. I was very lucky
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Old 01-29-2021, 05:48 PM   #19
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Also, in looking at the axle, It definitely has a bow in it. ...
Torsion axles do have a bow in them.

As for judging if it needs to be replaced, see https://www.boler.ca/2017/05/19/torsion-axle/

That page is for older campers but still very helpful.
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Old 01-29-2021, 06:15 PM   #20
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posting pictures

[QUOTE=Tkemple;803783BTW how did you get pic to download? I am used to being able to click and drag, or the site opening my photos. This one asked for file number which I gave, but the number just transcribed.[/QUOTE]


When posting, go down the page then:
Click on manage attachments, click browse, double click on the file from your drive, click upload, close that window, (I preview post at this point), then click submit.
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