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04-04-2019, 09:27 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Name: Anna
Trailer: Boler
BC
Posts: 14
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Reluctant 1980 Boler Reno
We inherited a beautiful 17 foot Boler (1980) that was in passable condition last year but after a rainy winter at a storage facility we decided if we are going to update the trailer, we are going to do it right. There was enough water damage to convince us to tear out the insulation and see what was happening. And once we started that, we could tell the cabinets needed re-building, too. We are hoping the windows don’t need to be replaced. Will post progress here. Any advice and encouragement is appreciated!
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04-05-2019, 07:16 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: Daniel
Trailer: Sold it
Northern VA
Posts: 278
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Great, a big boler (re)build.
Look forward to seeing your work updating it. Be sure to check the frame and ply floor too.
__________________
Sold the burro
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04-05-2019, 06:53 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: Tim
Trailer: Boler
Alberta
Posts: 277
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Worth it.
It will be a lot of work but totally worth it in the end. Plus you can now build a bed size that is usable. I have the '77 version and the width of the bed is less than a twin. I like to say it promotes cuddling, but certainly not a good nights sleep. And we even spent the money to have a custom mattress made to fit the curve.
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04-05-2019, 10:52 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: Steve
Trailer: 1979 Boler1700
Maple Ridge, B.C.
Posts: 383
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We recently finished our reno. We are in Maple Ridge if you're interested in a look.
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04-27-2019, 02:12 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Name: Anna
Trailer: Boler
BC
Posts: 14
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Hey all,
Just a quick update on the 1700 resto: pretty much have all the cabinets out and appliances removed except the shower stall and hot water heater, both of which I think we’ll just leave in while we replace the vinyl flooring and insulation. We ended up ordering neugasoft (sp??) vinyl with foam backing from JTs Outdoor Fabric in Ontario. Hopefully it works out although I know it can be a pain in the butt to put up. Anyway, once we get it all cleaned up, flooring and insulation in, we’ll probably start camping in it again. One question: has anyone ever successfully removed the Dometic fridge from their Boler? As in, physically how do you get it out? It won’t fit through the door and I suspect they must have put it in before placing the top of the egg on the bottom half.....
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04-27-2019, 02:13 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Name: Anna
Trailer: Boler
BC
Posts: 14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BennieTheBoler
Hey all,
Just a quick update on the 1700 resto: pretty much have all the cabinets out and appliances removed except the shower stall and hot water heater, both of which I think we’ll just leave in while we replace the vinyl flooring and insulation. We ended up ordering neugasoft (sp??) vinyl with foam backing from JTs Outdoor Fabric in Ontario. Hopefully it works out although I know it can be a pain in the butt to put up. Anyway, once we get it all cleaned up, flooring and insulation in, we’ll probably start camping in it again. One question: has anyone ever successfully removed the Dometic fridge from their Boler? As in, physically how do you get it out? It won’t fit through the door and I suspect they must have put it in before placing the top of the egg on the bottom half.....
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Here is a photo through the stern window.
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04-27-2019, 02:20 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: Tim
Trailer: Boler
Alberta
Posts: 277
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The venting behind the fridge is pretty big but not sure it's big enough to fit the entire fridge?
Also, while you have all that out, I would have a good look at you black tank to see how good of shape it's in. Wouldn't be a better time than now to replace it.
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04-27-2019, 02:35 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Name: Anna
Trailer: Boler
BC
Posts: 14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimR
The venting behind the fridge is pretty big but not sure it's big enough to fit the entire fridge?
Also, while you have all that out, I would have a good look at you black tank to see how good of shape it's in. Wouldn't be a better time than now to replace it.
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Thanks Tim,
Yeah the vent behind the fridge is about 2x2’ so not big enough unfortunately. It’s quite the puzzle! Probably just strap the fridge in there somehow if we’re going to tow the trailer anywhere. Do t want it to bounce through the wall haha!
Good thought on the black tank. I’ve been avoiding checking it out for obvious reasons.
One other question: there are little angle iron brackets riveted through the shell which serve as mounts for the ceiling-hung cabinets. We’ve found these are a major source of leaks/condensation and I’d like to fill the river holes. Any thoughts from people on using something like PL Premium to glue the angle iron on the inside of the shell rather than having a rivet or screw go through? Don’t believe glue as good as PL Premium existed in 1980. Starting to think it might be a better solution to many of the screws and rivets in the shells of these old trailers. Priority 1 is making them leak-proof otherwise all other work will be undone.
Any and all thoughts greatly appreciated!
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04-27-2019, 02:39 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Tim
Trailer: Boler
Alberta
Posts: 277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BennieTheBoler
Thanks Tim,
Yeah the vent behind the fridge is about 2x2’ so not big enough unfortunately. It’s quite the puzzle! Probably just strap the fridge in there somehow if we’re going to tow the trailer anywhere. Do t want it to bounce through the wall haha!
Good thought on the black tank. I’ve been avoiding checking it out for obvious reasons.
One other question: there are little angle iron brackets riveted through the shell which serve as mounts for the ceiling-hung cabinets. We’ve found these are a major source of leaks/condensation and I’d like to fill the river holes. Any thoughts from people on using something like PL Premium to glue the angle iron on the inside of the shell rather than having a rivet or screw go through? Don’t believe glue as good as PL Premium existed in 1980. Starting to think it might be a better solution to many of the screws and rivets in the shells of these old trailers. Priority 1 is making them leak-proof otherwise all other work will be undone.
Any and all thoughts greatly appreciated!
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I replace a bunch of the rivets on mine with stainless nuts and bolts and then a washer that had a rubber gasket on it. Seemed to water proof it quite well. The only other thing I could think of doing is fiberglassing in a a block of wood (or something similar) and then screwing into that to hold things up. that way there would be no intrusion through the hull.
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04-27-2019, 02:40 PM
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#10
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Junior Member
Name: Anna
Trailer: Boler
BC
Posts: 14
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Angle iron brackets
Quote:
Originally Posted by BennieTheBoler
little angle iron brackets riveted through
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Here are a couple photos.
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04-27-2019, 02:43 PM
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#11
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Junior Member
Name: Anna
Trailer: Boler
BC
Posts: 14
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Good idea. Love stainless steel. So far I’ve managed to own a sailboat and this Boler and take(taking) them both through some pretty major restorations without ever leaning how to properly lay fibreglass. Maybe the time is now haha. I believe it is an art form like any other and those who are good at it should be praised.
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04-27-2019, 03:35 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: Tim
Trailer: Boler
Alberta
Posts: 277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BennieTheBoler
Good idea. Love stainless steel. So far I’ve managed to own a sailboat and this Boler and take(taking) them both through some pretty major restorations without ever leaning how to properly lay fibreglass. Maybe the time is now haha. I believe it is an art form like any other and those who are good at it should be praised.
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Just need to go to the school of YouTube and become an expert!
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04-27-2019, 04:09 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: Steve
Trailer: 1979 Boler1700
Maple Ridge, B.C.
Posts: 383
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One other thing for sealing the rivets would be to get closed end rivets. They can't leak through the tube because they're sealed off unlike a normal rivet which is a tube.
I do like the idea of fiberglassing blocking to the roof and screwing the cabinets to the blocking. If i were to do it again, I would use pressure treated plywood and not normal plywood as my blocking.
YouTube Boatworks Today. This is a great resource if you want to learn to fiberglass.
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04-27-2019, 10:30 PM
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#14
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Junior Member
Name: Anna
Trailer: Boler
BC
Posts: 14
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Thanks Stefan,
Good idea to fibreglass blocks and screw to those instead. Any metal can leave potential to form condensation so the less there is the better IMO.
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04-29-2019, 01:58 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trails West
Oregon
Posts: 3,047
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I would not trust a block of wood epoxied to the ceiling for suspending an upper cabinet that has very much weight put into it. It is fine for very small cabinets but don't do that with a kitchen cabinet unless you also support that cabinet from underneath with a wall, bracket or post.
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