Replacing ~9" roof vent in Boler

[Raya]

The roof vent that's near the kitchen in my Boler came to me with a broken handle, and during a downpour last night it started leaking.somewhere around the frame (no evidence of past leaks, but I guess it has to start sometime). I'm thinking it's time to replace! <_<

A rough measurement showed it to be about 9" square, and the only vent I come up with in that size online is the Elixir Mini-Vent. This actually looks like it might be the same as the one in there now, but as it's dark and raining I don't know for sure right now. I'll be able to take photos later on.

Here is the new Elixir Mini-Vent:









I'd be interested to know if anyone has found any other ~9" roof vents, especially if they had either metal or clear plastic covers.

Given the issues noted above, I plan to remove the current vent and install a new one. Just wondering if there are any "gotchas" or "wish I'd know thats" from anyone who's already replaced theirs. One specific question I have is how do you get to the vent on top? Can you reach it from a ladder? I know I wouldn't want to put the amount of weight on the roof of actually climbing up onto it.

Also, has anyone used the Elixir Mini-Vent?

I realize that I could probably go to a 14" x 14" vent and/or a powered vent, but I'm not sure I feel the need, because my Boler has the jalousie windows on each side of the dinette, plus a jalousie over the stove and one in the door. The latter two are the ones I keep open most of the time for ventilation (I can leave them open when I go away, which I couldn't do with roof vent). I guess the only slight temptation with the 14" vent is the fact that they come with a clear top, which would make a nice "skylight" effect. OTOH, I'm not sure I need to make a bigger hole in the roof just for that when the trailer has windows on all four sides.

Is there any issue with the roof being so thin compared to a stickie? The vent I have now fits flush with the inside of the roof, basically, but I have no way of knowing if it was modified. I can't tell exactly how deep the flange is on the new Mini-Vent, but I guess it could always be trimmed (?).

Thanks in advance for any information/tips/warnings

Raya

PS: I searched the archives but didn't find anything just like what I'm asking.

[Pete Dumbleton]

Keep in mind that if something happens to the vent on the road (like backing under a tree with the vent raised...), a 14x14 replacement will be easier to find!

[Raya]

Keep in mind that if something happens to the vent on the road (like backing under a tree with the vent raised...), a 14x14 replacement will be easier to find!

I appreciate that there is more selection in 14 x 14, but I'm not having trouble finding the 9 x 9 vent - several places seem to carry it. they call it a "kitchen" or "bathroom" vent.

I'm not averse to cutting a larger hole if I need to, but with the jalousie windows in my Boler, I'm just not seeing a need for more ventilation (that is actually less able to be open, say, in the rain, than the windows).

Raya

[Chester Taje]

I put a 14x14 inch one in a 13 foot i owned at one time. I just took a jig saw to cut opening bigger, then installed a small wood frame on the inside.
I would do what Pete suggested.

[Greg A]

Raya,

I agree with Ches and Pete, especially if you can go ahead and put a Maxfan or somesuch in. I have the jalousies as well, but the max would sure be awesome to have for the in-between weather. They have the rain hoods where you can run them through storms as well which would really help with condensation. I would think it would really be a selling point as well.

[Raya]

For me, right now is probably not a good time to expand the opening and go with a bigger, more-complicated Fan vent. I can appreciate how nice they might be --- and if I do add one of the Fan vent models later (and indeed I might), I can always expand it then, and I will know I'm doing it to exactly the right dimension for the Fan vent.

Meanwhile, if anyone has replaced the 9 x 9 vent in the roof of the Boler, what did you find in there? I don't believe that I'm going to find any wooden trim or reinforcing, but it would be nice to know what to expect ahead of time. Also, has anyone laid hands on the Elixir Mini-Vent?

When you reinstalled the vent, did you use rivets or machine screws -- or something else?

(One more thought concerning 14 x 14: While the 9 x 9 doesn't seem to require any reinforcing around the edge of the opening, the 14 x 14 might.)

Thanks for your thoughts Even if I don't go with a given suggestion, it's good to hear opinions and input.

Raya

[Daniel V.]

Given the issues noted above, I plan to remove the current vent and install a new one. Just wondering if there are any "gotchas" or "wish I'd know thats" from anyone who's already replaced theirs. One specific question I have is how do you get to the vent on top? Can you reach it from a ladder? I know I wouldn't want to put the amount of weight on the roof of actually climbing up onto it.

Given the small size of the trailer, you should be able to bring a stepladder close to the trailer and lean over the top without having to outright stand on top of the trailer, provided you can stretch a bit and your gut doesn't get in the way. The vent on our Trillium was held by rivets, and in our case is metal so I just drilled them out, re-sealed it with butyl tape and seated it back into place using new rivets that I covered with epoxy. We have found the smaller size vent to be quite sufficient so far and don't feel compelled to get a larger one until we really feel the need for it.

[Mike Watters]

One thing to consider is height. The compact vents are VERY low profile. Standard vents stick up a few inches. Might make all the difference if you're trying to roll it into a garage and it's already a squeaker.

[Raya]

Thanks for the input, Daniel.

I have a rivet question (for you or anyone else): If you use the butyl tape (as I plan to), and then you rivet, and then the tape still has a bit of a "squooge out" factor over the next few days (as I've read it does), do you ever have a problem with the new rivets not being tight enough as a result? i.e. the tape oozes out and now there is "slack" in the rivet?

I'm going to be re-sealing my windows too, so this is on my mind, and I had considered using machine screws in place of the rivets for that reason. (Actually, the two larger windows in the dinette are already screwed in; but the small windows over the stove and in the door are riveted in place, as is the roof vent.)

Raya

[Tom Trostel]

I have installed the same 9" x 9" vent in my Compact Jr. It replaced an old aluminum vent that broke. I could not find any other vents this size online. I bought mine from rvadenver.com. I've had it for one year and am very pleased with it. I should have replaced the old one sooner.
Tom Trostel

[Raya]

I have installed the same 9" x 9" vent in my Compact Jr. It replaced an old aluminum vent that broke. I could not find any other vents this size online. I bought mine from rvadenver.com. I've had it for one year and am very pleased with it. I should have replaced the old one sooner.
Tom Trostel

Ah, good to know. Thanks! RVAdenver is one of the places I was looking. Although they only show the ivory colored one, and I think I might prefer the white one that I see another place has in stock (of course it's more $ )

I think if this one hadn't started leaking (granted, we've had nearly 4" of rain in the last 24 hours!), I would probably have limped along with the old, wired-together handle just like you did with your old vent. Guess the occasional biblical downpour is good for motivation

[Raya]

Greg (and maybe Chester or Pete? Not sure what exact trailer you have/had),

I see you have a Scamp 13, so your roof is probably similar to mine in construction and rigidity. Did you frame the opening with wood when you enlarged your vent (if you did)? I'm thinking that since the hole would be over twice the area of the smaller vent, it might need some reinforcing "framing" around it.

Also, since the Boler ceiling is not all that high (as say, a Trillium), did it become bothersome to have the extra inch or so of the framing protruding into the trailer? Oh, or I just realized: Did you ad the reinforcing to the outside of the roof (if you did)? Of course then it would make the trailer even higher...

Maybe you haven't even replaced your vent, but these are some of the thoughts/concerns running through my mind when considering going to a larger, 14 x 14 vent.

Raya

[Daniel V.]

If you use the butyl tape (as I plan to), and then you rivet, and then the tape still has a bit of a "squooge out" factor over the next few days (as I've read it does), do you ever have a problem with the new rivets not being tight enough as a result? i.e. the tape oozes out and now there is "slack" in the rivet?

I'd say only the excess butyl putty will ooze out from the pressure and shouldn't escape and leave a gap behind causing the vent to leak or rattle, if that's what you mean, given the how sticky it is, and especially if the tape is about an inch wide or so. But that's an area where I would actually tolerate a bit of caulking if this was ever a problem. Only gotcha I see with rivets is that you may need to use larger ones once the old one are removed, or use washers. But I suppose screws could work, too - you may not have a choice depending on what you find out about installing the new vent.

[Roy in TO]

Raya,
Unless someone has modded your trailer it should be a straight swap. Carefully drill the rivets out from the top 1st, then the bottom if some are there. (look closely because some of the rivets hold the old aluminum vent together and have nothing to do with the attachment. The rivets from the top should end before they come through the ensolite.

As for the butyl tape, enough will ooze out from the pressure, but not enough to make the rivets become slack. Some have used SS machine bolts instead of rivets. Some use caps to seal off the small hole in the rivet heads, some use butyl and some use (gasp) silicone.

[Raya]

Thanks, Roy,

This trailer seems pretty original, so perhaps it is the original vent (although the inside trim "ring" seems to simply be friction fit). The folks I bought it from had owned it for over 20 years, and weren't the "modding" types. They kept up with maintenance things like frame painting, wheel bearings, and tires, but kept it stock.

One funny anecdote related to that: When I was in the process of purchasing the trailer, a question came up that the owners couldn't answer, but they thought the previous owner might know about. So they looked him up in the telephone book and called him. He answered, it was him, and they talked for a few minutes. Then he said to the fellow whom I was buying it from, "So, how have you liked the trailer? Did it work out well for you?" --- as if they had bought it six months before Of course the fact that they weren't selling it until over 20 years later did kind of answer the question, but I thought it was charming anyway (they bought a new 16' Scamp).

[james kent]

Hi Raya
There was a 9" vent cover on the roof of our Boler that was quite bent up when we purchased it. I replaced that old metal cover with a 14" model that has a tinted lexan lid and have never regreted changing to a larger size.That was 14 years ago and we've never had a bit of trouble with it. No matter what kind of windows you have in your's, any extra ventilation on a muggy day is welcome. Like Chester an others have said, a jig saw a bit of butyl tape and you're all set.
Jim

[Raya]

Hi Jim,

Thanks for the input. I'm okay with the process of cutting a larger hole, although I still may not choose to enlarge the vent at this time. I think my trailer may be garageable at its current height - a feature I may want to keep. I'll have to measure. I wish the mini-vent came with a clear top.

Either way, I'm curious: Was there any framing around your original vent hole? If not, did you add any since the new hole is over twice the area?

Thanks,

Raya

[Per Walthinsen]

Raya:
My Burro came with the Elixir vent in the bathroom as standard. When the first one went bad I searched high and low for a different replacement but to no avail.
I replaced it and in a fairly short time it also failed and started leaking when the plastic cracked around the hinge area.
I'm now on my third one and it has started leaking. There is little question that it is a poorly manufactured item, and Elixir does not have a solution (which I tried to find when the weatherstripping failed). This third one was also ivory in color which seems to have been one of the two color options, but I had determined to spray paint it anyway since even the polar white one faded into an ochre eyesore.
As long as this is the only 9" by 9" available I have determined that when I have to fix it I will instead custom fabricate a skylight to take its place from some acrylic and whatever material seems appropriate and install a powered vent similar to the ones used in the Casitas, Olivers, etc. in a different place in the bathroom.
Bottom line is that you are likely to keep replacing this flimsy piece on an ongoing basis unless you devise a different strategy. When the leak becomes unacceptable that is what I will do.

[Raya]

Per,

Thanks for the tip. The mini-vent certainly doesn't look too robust in the photos. But then the smoked-plastic-dome 14 x 14 vent I bought years ago for my pickup topper was pretty flimsy too, so maybe they're not much better and I would still have the hassle of enlarging the hole (not that it woudl be a problem if there were a good reward).

I've been looking at the metal-topped one at Vintage Trailer Supply. That wouldn't let any light in but would be low-profile. The metal sounds sturdy, but it looks as though it's actuallyl based on the same bottom part as the plastic-topped vents, so that my be just an illusion.

http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Metal_...t_p/vts-280.htm

Has anyone put in a nice, sturdy vent? I'm not looking for a powered one; just a basic vent.

Coming from the boating world, it's amazing to me how flimsy a lot of the RV stuff is. Of course it's also twenty times cheaper, and there is much more priority placed on weight savings. That's not so much of an issue when you have a 4,000# hunk of lead stuck to the bottom of your craft

I'm still hoping someone will chime in with specifics on whether they felt the need to add any framing when they enlarged the hole to 14 x 14. I really don't have a lot headroom to spare (I guess I'd better figure out how far the various cranks hang down, too). Also, vents such as the one linked above say they are for roof thicknesses of "1-7/8 - 3" but can be trimmed." I wonder if they can be trimmed to the 1/4" or so of a Boler roof

If no clear better option presents itself, I may just go ahead and replace with the Elixir vent for now (winterish) and then re-evaluate later on. Not that I want to do this twice! If I do, I certainly won't waste the extra money for the more-expensive white one (thanks Per).

Raya

[Donna D.]

The big plus for having a larger vent (or fan) is the fact heat rises. Although windows can provide cross ventilation, unless there's a vent on the ceiling, heat gets trapped. The larger the opening, the more heat is removed. A small vent may do the job, but if I was going to be chopping a hole I'd want to put one of these in: MaxxFan. I like the fact it's low profile too.

BTW: Someone in another post (I can't find it!) mentioned the crank hanging down on their vent was problematic... keep hitting their head on it. So, they simply removed it and threw it in a drawer. When needing to crank the vent open and closed, grabbed the handle out of the drawer and used it. I guess the shaft is square... and just slipped on and off once the set screw was removed. That may be a solution for you too Raya.