Replacing a vent -- silicon?

[nebraskama]

The refrigerator vent on my Casita (next to the door) needs to be replaced so I went ahead and bought a new one. The guy at Casita said that I need to "drill out" the rivets, replace them and then make sure I run silicon over them and around the outside of the vent.

Has anyone done this? Is there a special type of silicon to use ... ie marine silicon? I'm going to assume I can't just go to Menards and buy clear caulking or can I?

Is this something that can be easily done? Thanks in advance!

[LukeP]

You'll hear this many times on this forum, but silicone isn't a good option. There are good non-silicone caulks, I've had great luck with Lexel. I pick it up at Tru Value.

[Deb & Chuck]

Originally Posted by LukeP

You'll hear this many times on this forum, but silicone isn't a good option. There are good non-silicone caulks, I've had great luck with Lexel. I pick it up at Tru Value.

Buy a caulking tube of Pro-Flex works better than silcone buy it from a RV place.

[Deb & Chuck]

Originally Posted by LukeP

You'll hear this many times on this forum, but silicone isn't a good option. There are good non-silicone caulks, I've had great luck with Lexel. I pick it up at Tru Value.

Just thought you will need a 1/8" drill bit to drill the center of the rivet. You may also need a round punch to drive the center of the rivet out not always needed but sometimes. I hope you own a rivet gun to install the fridge vent.

[Donna D.]

I'd use butyl. And silicone is the Devil's goop! See this topic for more info: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ing-24715.html

[nebraskama]

We do have a rivet setter ... hope that's the same thing. Donna, I used butyl tape on my aluminum campers but noticed that there's silicon on the casita obviously factory installed items.

Ugh ... I really need to replace this vent since the slats are broken. Now I'm nervous.

[Thomas G.]

Slight hijack.

What is the best way to seal rivets?

[nebraskama]

The guy at casita told me to put silicon over them but seeing how silicon isn't the most popular thing, good question!

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by LukeP

You'll hear this many times on this forum, but silicone isn't a good option. There are good non-silicone caulks, I've had great luck with Lexel. I pick it up at Tru Value.

I second the motion for Lexel , I used it when I replaced the leaking and cracked roof vent on my Scamp . The Lexel adheres better than silicone and seems to hold up better to the sun and weather . Plus if I remember correctly it's endorsed by Norm (Our Norm not the PBS Norm or the Cheers Norm)

[honda03842]

I do use Lexel instead of Silicone. It does seem to stick to fiberglass better. I primarily use it to stick rivet caps on, using the clear variety (it comes in clear and white.

The only place I've used it as a sealent is the fitting that allows the wires of the solar panels to go through the roof. Last night it rained hard for three hours and it nor anything else leaked.

Please know I've only been using it for six months but have had no issues. I buy it in resealable small plastic tubes and not the caulk gun size since my jobs are small.

[honda03842]

Lexel does not stick to silicone. On my trailer a previous owner had put silicone on all previous rivets. I had to scrape down to the aluminum rivet to get the lexel to stick.

[Mike Magee]

Why in the world would Casita use silicone in their installs and recommend it for repairs, when it's so doggone nasty? What are they thinking???? Don't they read this forum?

[on edit]: I suppose once the spot has had silicone, more silicone is the quick and easy way to repair, except the repair won't last and will have to be re-siliconed again and again, right?

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by honda03842

I do use Lexel instead of Silicone. It does seem to stick to fiberglass better. I primarily use it to stick rivet caps on, using the clear variety (it comes in clear and white.

The only place I've used it as a sealent is the fitting that allows the wires of the solar panels to go through the roof. Last night it rained hard for three hours and it nor anything else leaked.

Please know I've only been using it for six months but have had no issues. I buy it in resealable small plastic tubes and not the caulk gun size since my jobs are small.

I started using Lexel when I built my lake home to seal windows , flashing and other exterior joints . My local lumber yard recommended it because it held up to weather better than caulk and tooled easier than silicone. I too have used it (white ) to seal the rivets on my Scamp ,I just felt more secure in my choice of Lexel when I read that it was your sealent of choice also.

[Raz]

I have used Lexel on my trailer and so far so good. However, I found it just about impossible to tool. If you want a nice neat bead you need to get it right right out of the tube. No smoothing with your finger. For anything you may wish to take off in the future like a fridge vent, windows, ect. I would use butyl tape. Easy on. Easy off. Lasts a long time. Trims with a dull putty knife, credit card, ect. Raz

p.s. Read the post Donna referenced. It made a believer out of me when I read it a while back.

[honda03842]

I used tape for the Hotwater, water intake, electrical cord, cable and satellite connection, things I might want to replace again.

[Donna D.]

ALL plastic items on the exterior of the trailer will EVENTUALLY fail due to UV damage. In some areas of the country that happens sooner than in others. You can slow it down by spraying the parts with Fusion paint which helps inhibit the damage... but nothing will completely stop it. It's best to plan ahead, rather than have regrets because you thought you were affixing something "permanent" on the exterior of the trailer. Norm has the right idea... YMMV

[sfoss]

Is this Lexel the self leveling stuff you guys have talked about before?

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by sfoss

Is this Lexel the self leveling stuff you guys have talked about before?

The lexel I've used is not self leveling . I do know that it adheres better than silicone , is more UV resistant than silicone, has good stretch properties and Lexel will stick to Lexel which is nice if you need to repair a spot.

Steve Dunham

[Carol H]

I also vote for Butyl tape only for sealing vents, fans, lights etc to the trailer. I do though but a tiny bit of Lexel caulking in the hole before I shoot the rivet into it and put a tiny tiny dab of it onto the hole in the middle of the rivet.

[LukeP]

Originally Posted by sfoss

Is this Lexel the self leveling stuff you guys have talked about before?

as Steve said, I'm not using self-leveling either. Here's a link to the caulk - I use the 5.5oz tube (you can click hypertext on this page), and I use white. You can also google "Lexel white caulk 13033"

Lexel® - The superior alternative to silicone.