Originally Posted by Melody beachcomber
Help! Have any of you replaced the pile weather stripping around your sliding windows? I think I have the correct weather stripping ����but clueless how to begin.... and end. Do the windows pop out so I can work on it? Everything is original on mine so the windows aren’t sliding well. Would also like to do the window on the door which is bad, haven’t been able to open it.
I have a 77 beachcomber
Are you talking about the channel weather stripping that the glass pane slides inside of? That material has its own name that it is know by ...flexible glass run channel. If so then theoretically you can pull the old piece out and slide in the new piece, but that is just in theory, all bets are off when you have to do it on a vintage RV.
.....If only it had been that simple on my circa 1971 Campster
sliding windows. The original seal was fuzzy stuff over a wound wire core. The wire was badly rusted and the fuzz stuff had hardened. The glass would not even move one inch backwards or forwards. I took the window out of the RV, I soaked it in the tub overnight and could finally move the glass but could not get out the old channel felt. The only way to remove it was to take the window apart. So I laid it flat on a table that was padded with towels. next I took off the center bars. Then I drilled the rivets out of the frame that joined the ends of the frame together. Next I used a spreader bar clamp to gently pry the frame open just enough so that I could remove the glass panes. You have to be careful not to deform the frame, go slow, take it easy when spreading the frame apart, it likely only needs to move a couple of inches apart at the join. Once the glass was out I scraped out the old channel material and scrubbed and cleaned and scraped for what seemed like hours to get it all out of there. Then you can put the new material into the track. Put the panes back in. Then I reversed the head on the bar clamp so that it could pull the frame back together. The hardest part was getting new rivets installed. I had to put set a metal spacer onto the nose of the rivet puller so it became narrow enough to reach into the area of the frame so that it could pull a rivet tight. After pulling it the tail of the rivet was a little too long so I carefully trimmed it back using a Dremel motor leaving just enough bulge so that it was still securing the pieces together. Put the vertical center bars back on using new clear silicone seals on those bars to keep out water, dust bugs, etc. Then put the window back into the hole using butyl putty tape. The next window was much easier as I had by then figured out a method of getting the job done.
The original seal on the exterior vertical center bars that seals the gap between the glass panes was no longer available. I found a silicone seal meant to be a wiper at the botttom of a shower door. It was just the right size for the job. I also put it on the interior vertical center bar instead of the original fuzzy felt seal. You need these seals to keep out rain, dirt, bugs, etc. This is what I purchased from Amazon for those seal strips, $6.00, free shipping. I had to get two pieces as each of the 4 vertical bar seal pieces was just fractionally over 16" long on my trailer windows.
CRL Translucent Shower Door Vinyl "T" Seal and Sweep for 7/16" Maximum Gap - 32-5/8 in long
This is the 24" spreader clamp I used to gently pry the frame apart and then pull it back together. You don't need the exact same brand. https://www.doitbest.com/products/317963