Solar Panel 101 for Dummies

[Alan Ursacki]

How did you set a sales alert?

[Glenn Baglo]

Originally Posted by Alan Ursacki

How did you set a sales alert?

You open an account. Sign up. Email, preferred store etc.

Then when you find an item you want to buy, click on get sales alerts on the page display for the item. You will receive an email just prior to the item going on sale.

[Glenn Baglo]

Originally Posted by Alan Ursacki

How did you set a sales alert?

Flyer just arrived. Coleman 40 watt panel with controller and wiring goes on sale this weekend for $80.99.

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by Raspy

.... Knipex is the best of the best in pliers....

may I also say, Knipex, made in Germany Chrome Vanadium steel, are the best of the best in diagonal wire cutters. I have a big pair of 7401250 10" Knipex diags, and i have a normal size pair. I've used the big ones on chainlink fence wire, they cut right through it.

its sad, used to be the USA brands were as good as it gets... but now they've all been merged and consolidated and outsourced to China, and they suck. Crescent, Vice Grips, etc etc. are junk now. :-/

oh yeah, I also have a couple pairs of Knipex large needle-nose, one 3821200 bent right angle, my absolute favorite needle-nose tool, and another fairly large straight pair.

[Raspy]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

may I also say, Knipex, made in Germany Chrome Vanadium steel, are the best of the best in diagonal wire cutters. I have a big pair of 7401250 10" Knipex diags, and i have a normal size pair. I've used the big ones on chainlink fence wire, they cut right through it.

its sad, used to be the USA brands were as good as it gets... but now they've all been merged and consolidated and outsourced to China, and they suck. Crescent, Vice Grips, etc etc. are junk now. :-/

oh yeah, I also have a couple pairs of Knipex large needle-nose, one 3821200 bent right angle, my absolute favorite needle-nose tool, and another fairly large straight pair.

Jon, Yep. And it's not just the material they are made of. They have the geometry down perfectly. This means a gentle squeeze on the handle will absolutely grab the thing they have ahold of. Much better than any other brand I have used.

I've actually been able to grab a pipe that was very tight, and then stand on them to get enough torque. They are sort of self locking, like a pipe wrench, and once grabbed on, will not let go. Then the same pliers can be used as tweezers to get metal splinters.

The parallel pliers with smooth jaws, made of stainless, are a thing of beauty too.

As you say, the diagonal wire cutters are also very nice.

Have you noticed that some of the other manufacturers are now producing their tools in black steel with red handles, apparently to mimic Knipex?

[Richard Davis]

OKAY. I’m in. After just missing the Canadian Tire sale on 40 watt solar panels, I bought the Renogy 100 watt solar suitcase. I’m still waiting for delivery, but I’m sure I’ll be back with questions! When I looked at the much greater cost of true deep cycle batteries, I figure with my limited electrical needs (a few lights, really), I could get along with the marine/deep cycle hybrids I’ve always used, and keep it topped up with the solar panels (AND my new low-draw LED lights). Fingers crossed as I enter this Brave New World! Thanks for all your help.

[thrifty bill]

A couple things I made for my Renogy suitcase.

1. An SAE 12 AWG connector to hook into my battery. Alligator clips supplied by Renogy means you have to open your battery every time you connect. I bought a 3 ft SAE cord to make this piece.

2. A longer extension cord, so I can place panel further away from trailer. I used ~40 feet from an outdoor extension cord (it was 100 ft, now its 60 ft long). Two wire 12 AWG all weather was going to cost me ~ $1/ft, shortening an existing extension cord was free.

To make the cord, I bought the five pair of Renogy connectors on Amazon along with the Renogy tool. I also bought a Dupont style crimper tool. Important to get the right size....

Next step is adding an inline breaker at the battery to protect against damage to the cord.

[Raspy]

Originally Posted by thrifty bill

A couple things I made for my Renogy suitcase.

1. An SAE 12 AWG connector to hook into my battery. Alligator clips supplied by Renogy means you have to open your battery every time you connect. I bought a 3 ft SAE cord to make this piece.

2. A longer extension cord, so I can place panel further away from trailer. I used ~40 feet from an outdoor extension cord (it was 100 ft, now its 60 ft long). Two wire 12 AWG all weather was going to cost me ~ $1/ft, shortening an existing extension cord was free.

To make the cord, I bought the five pair of Renogy connectors on Amazon along with the Renogy tool. I also bought a Dupont style crimper tool. Important to get the right size....

Next step is adding an inline breaker at the battery to protect against damage to the cord.

Pretty much exactly what I did.

I made a short jumper from the batteries to the outside and installed a plug, mounted on the exterior surface to plug the panels into. I cut a 20' piece off my #12 heavy duty extension cord and made that into my cord for the suitcase. I used Renogy connectors to connect to the existing suitcase wiring.

It works very well and is long enough to allow the collectors to always look at the sun.

[Richard Davis]

Thanks. So what goes onto the battery end of the SAE 12 avg connector? Just a washer-shaped connector you attach where the leads go from the battery to the trailer’s electrical system? Seriously, I’m challenged by electricity!

[Raspy]

Richard,

If you mean what kind of connector do you use to connect the wire to the battery, this ring connector style is the answer. This is for a permanent connection, as opposed to alligator clips that are just for a quick connection.

[Richard Davis]

Yes, that’s what I thought. And the Renogy MC4 connector is what goes on the other end and connects to the yet-to-arrive Renogy gear? And I need to order those connectors from Renogy in order to keep my life simple? The two plastic (?) tools shown in the Renogy MC4 install video are also something pretty important to order if I crave even more simplicity? Many thanks yet again.

[thrifty bill]

Originally Posted by Richard Davis

Yes, that’s what I thought. And the Renogy MC4 connector is what goes on the other end and connects to the yet-to-arrive Renogy gear? And I need to order those connectors from Renogy in order to keep my life simple? The two plastic (?) tools shown in the Renogy MC4 install video are also something pretty important to order if I crave even more simplicity? Many thanks yet again.

I ordered all of the above from Amazon. But you also need a Dupont style crimper, of the RIGHT size (in my case to handle 10 to 12AWG wire). And yes, I used the ring connectors above on both the battery AND my in-line breaker.

I've already gone through one set of five pair of connectors (did I mention using the RIGHT sized Dupont tool?? I had to redo a few. Too small tool plus Renogy connectors = waste/do-over.

[Richard Davis]

“ A longer extension cord, so I can place panel further away from trailer. I used ~40 feet from an outdoor extension cord (it was 100 ft, now its 60 ft long). Two wire 12 AWG all weather was going to cost me ~ $1/ft, shortening an existing extension cord was free.” Thanks, Bill. I know there was much discussion about the best length and thickness of an extending cord (to get the panels out in the sun). I take it 40 feet of 12 gauge works fine for you, even if it is not optimal to those more electrically inclined? Thanks

[John in Santa Cruz]

I got rid of the renogy MC4's, and ran my 12 AWG wire directly to the solar panel controller. I put a powerpole PP30 on the end of the cable, and another PP30 on the pigtail to the battery, which yes, has ring connectors like Raspy showed, except for 10-12 AWG wire, you want the yellow ones.

[Richard Davis]

Okay, the good news first. Received my Renogy 100 watt suitcase. Hooked it up and it immediately worked like a charm! Couldn't be happier about how quickly it brought my battery up to full charge. The bad news: I bought a 5-pack of the MC4 connectors and a crimping tool and made a 20' extension cord so I could move the panels out into the sun (when necessary). I disconnected the Renogy-supplied cord that runs from the controller to the battery (it has alligator clips on the battery end, and male and female MC4 connectors on the other end, so it can connect to a short cord from the controller). I then spliced" in the 20 cord with male/female MC4 connectors on both ends. I hooked back up to the battery and absolutely nothing!!! Zero readout on the controller screen. I suspected my crimping job, took the 20 foot homemade cord to my workroom and checked both lines for continuity -- Perfect. No problem there. So back out in the sun, firmly jiggled all the MC4 connections, hooked up to the battery, and NOTHING. If I unhook the 20 foot cord I've "spliced" in between the battery and the controller, everything words perfectly again.
So what have I done wrong? The 20 foot cord is 12 AWG, the multimeter shows I have continuity, but nothing reads on the controller with my 20 foot cord in place. Why? If the 20 foot cord was too long for the gauge of the wire, wouldn't I still get SOMETHING?

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by Richard Davis

... The bad news: ...I suspected my crimping job,...(

Hook your extension to the PV panel, put it in the sun, then read the voltage with a multi-meter at the end of the cable, when it is not connected to the controller.

Also be sure to cover the panel when hooking up anything (treat it like a live battery) and only uncover it when everything is hooked up. Some controllers require the battery to be connected first also - does yours? And if so, did you do that?

[Glenn Baglo]

Here's instructions for my "Coleman" 40 watt panel. Battery hooked up last.

[Richard Davis]

I'll try your suggestion tomorrow, Gordon. Right now, all I can get is lunar power! It doesn't seem to matter WHEN I hook up too the battery with this system. I typically hook everything up, THEN connect to the battery, and that sequence works for the product that Renogy supplied. I noted today as I hooked things up yet again for yet another attempt to make my 20 foot cord work, that the MC4 connectors I received from Amazon (because Renogy was out of stock) are slightly different than the ones used on the solar suitcase product shipped by Renogy. The ones from Amazon have "Renogy" on them, but the plastic ridges and rings are slightly differnt, and I'm beginning to wonder if -- even though they appear to fit and to snap nicely into place -- THEY aren't the culprit. I'm going to ask Renogy, but I hope someone at fiberglass rv has a better explanation -- and a more timely one than I anticipate from Renogy.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by Richard Davis

... and I'm beginning to wonder if -- even though they appear to fit and to snap nicely into place -- THEY aren't the culprit. I'..

Sounds reasonable. I had wondered if MC4 connectors from different manufacturers was the problem but I was under the impression that they were all from Renogy. They could be counterfeits from Amazon, esp if its a third party seller.

I have found that my MC4s from Renogy can be connected and disconnected by hand but if I use MC4 from a different manufacturer then I need the tool and even then they can be hard to connect.

You might want to buy MC4 straight from Renogy, they do have an Amazon store.

[John in Santa Cruz]

there's either continuity or there isn't. readily determined with a DVM.