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Old 01-12-2010, 12:06 AM   #1
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I have had a Boler for 2 years with the luxury of storing it in a garage. It has now been outside since August and during that last month started to grow mold inside on the cushions and some of our other items inside. There is minor leaks where the rivets are but I assume moisture gets in where the door does not close perfectly too, not to mention condensation. How do people keep their BOlers dry stored outside in the rainy winter?

I thought of a small heater but was afraid it may attract rats or other rodents to live inside of it. Would a tarp help much?
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Old 01-12-2010, 02:35 AM   #2
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I had a small leak because of rivets, also. I placed and smoothed plastic food wrap over the rivets and so far it has stopped the leak. The wrap clings to the fiberglass well and so far hasn't blown off. Of course we don't get much wind, but the solution was cheap.

We removed all cloth from the inside. We found our mattress was getting mold underneath. We leave a window cracked, and when we plug it in to recharge the battery about once a month, we run the heater and exhaust fan. There are things you can buy to remove moisture. If I had a big problem, I would try running our dehumidifier in the trailer.

Hope this helps.
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Old 01-12-2010, 06:33 AM   #3
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I live in an extremely windy area and don't cover the trailer with a tarp, etc. due to the chaffing of the gel coat that would occur. I don't run a heater either as it's an electric expense I chose not to incurr.

I use a Dri-Z-Air canister/crystals, a passive dehumidifier. I place it in a plastic tub that is then placed inside the sink. The original canister cost about $5 and I can use 2-3 bags of crystals (a year) at about 99 cents a bag. The canister needs to be dumped a couple of times a month.

That being said, you'll need to stop the leaks. Running a heater or using a dehumidifier isn't going to do much good if moisture is continually coming in.

If wind isn't a concern, tarp the trailer. If snow load is a concern, overturn a bucket over the ceiling vent and stretch the tarp over the bucket.

There may be other ideas coming in too...
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Old 01-12-2010, 11:02 AM   #4
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To winterize, I remove all cloth and paper items from my trailer, cover and leave a 75 watt bulb on. The moisture just sucks into any cloth/paper and helps the mold, so I store those items in my closet...the bulb keeps it just a bit warmer so the air is a bit dryer....though the "heat" does tend to stratify in the trailer.
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Old 01-12-2010, 11:09 AM   #5
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This site has good gadgets to keep tarp down.


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Old 01-12-2010, 11:36 AM   #6
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As Donna said, you'll need to fix the leaks in any case. However, if now is not a convenient time, I can recommend 3M's "Weather Resistant" silver masking tape. It's their tape #225. As long as the egg is dry and clean at the time, you can apply a square of this over a rivet, or a strip of it over the top of a leaking window frame (like a shingle/hood), and, unlike other tapes, it will not "weld" to the surface in short order.

Of course it won't last forever, especially in intense sun, but it does a really good job as far as tiding one over to a season in which it is easier to re-bed the hardware (and stop the leaks properly).

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Old 01-12-2010, 12:06 PM   #7
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I go the other way and leave the vent open slightly and all the windows cracked so there is good airflow. I also have a composting toilet installed that has a powered vent which also ensures airflow.

When not in use I prop the seat/bed cushions up so there is air flow on all sides and leave all cabinet doors open.

We use our Scamp mostly in the winter for trips south, so it doesn't stand idle for months on end.
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Old 01-12-2010, 04:41 PM   #8
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I go the other way and leave the vent open slightly and all the windows cracked so there is good airflow.
I'm not sure if you were referring to my post or not, but just to clarify what I said: Although I recommended the special tape as a good way to stop leaks until you can fix them properly, I didn't mean to tape over window openings. I, too, leave the windows open when storing the trailer (I have jalousies, so no worries about rain getting in).

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Old 01-12-2010, 07:55 PM   #9
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Quote:
(I have jalousies, so no worries about rain getting in).

Raya
You obviously don't live where the wind blows <_< My trailer is stored under a carport that's 18' x 25'... and it's parked dead center. In 2008, with our 40 year winter storm, I still had a foot of snow ON top of the trailer!!!!!!!!! I would have taken pictures, but it was too friggin' cold out.

BUT, if the trailer is stored in a dead-calm area, opening the windows for ventilation is a good idea. I just happen to live where the rain comes in sideways... true story. And, I'd never leave a window or vent open. YMMV
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Old 01-12-2010, 09:39 PM   #10
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Hi Donna,

Well, never say never! However I got through "Nor-Ida" just fine, and we had ferocious winds and rain with that, over a period of days, not hours. My place is not on open land, but it was still frighteningly windy and rain was just lashing down.

The former owners lived in Winnipeg, which is fairly open prairie type country. I know they always left the stove and door windows open (small jalousies), because they told me, and because it was on a "pre-storage list" that they had printed up and left in the camper. I can't see evidence of there having been leaks. In fact, the main reason I chose this particular camper is that it was clean and original, and *dry*. Not fancy, just simple and clean. I just couldn't find any signs of there having been any leaks or mustiness (and I despise mustiness).

Again, I don't mean to imply that it is impossible for rain to come into an open jalousie window, but they sure seem to resist it well. At least my old "square cornered' ones. I'm sure there is a circumstance where rain will get in, but they have resisted all the rain I've had so far.

Is it the square cornered jalousies that you've had leak in the rain? I know they make more modern ones where just the center panel opens and the sides are fixed radius panels - I don't know whether they would be more prone to leakage or not. Maybe because the fixed side panels somehow funnel moisture to the openings? Or do you have slider windows? (I had those on the U-haul and they simply had to be kept closed, or water *would* come in every time it rained.)

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Old 01-12-2010, 11:14 PM   #11
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I'm going to bring the trailer in the garage for a week and clean it after it dries out which should be quick I'll dap some clear silicone over the rivets and when I put it back out place a small heater in it. The light bulb idea sounds good but I think it would be odd with a lighted Boler in my yard for the neighbors to look at. My big worry is a rodent will move in for the heat but I'll try and seal the bottom of the door. Thanks all.
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Old 01-12-2010, 11:22 PM   #12
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Silicone is a NO NO, so I'm told!!
Come out to the Sons Of Norway campground last weekend in May and get some first hand hints on 'How to's" ......
Its THE place to BE, in May, LOL!!!
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Old 01-12-2010, 11:50 PM   #13
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As Donna said, you'll need to fix the leaks in any case. However, if now is not a convenient time, I can recommend 3M's "Weather Resistant" silver masking tape. It's their tape #225. As long as the egg is dry and clean at the time, you can apply a square of this over a rivet, or a strip of it over the top of a leaking window frame (like a shingle/hood), and, unlike other tapes, it will not "weld" to the surface in short order.

Of course it won't last forever, especially in intense sun, but it does a really good job as far as tiding one over to a season in which it is easier to re-bed the hardware (and stop the leaks properly).

Raya
I second Raya solution for a temporary fix is. Silicon goooo will likely not prevent a leak and will make cleaning more difficult.
George
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Old 01-14-2010, 07:27 PM   #14
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I second Raya solution for a temporary fix is. Silicon goooo will likely not prevent a leak and will make cleaning more difficult.
George
As far as I can tell there is nothing sealing the rivets when it was originally made so silicone must be an improvement. I don't like the idea of putting tape over them as it would look ugly.
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Old 01-14-2010, 09:01 PM   #15
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As far as I can tell there is nothing sealing the rivets when it was originally made so silicone must be an improvement. I don't like the idea of putting tape over them as it would look ugly.
Well silicone is only a temporary solution and is an absolute $%!* to get off! I think Raya's suggestion of tape... was only meant to be a temporary solution, but at least one you wouldn't be cursing trying to remove, unlike silicone.

And clear silicone only stays clear for a very short time. It turns yellow, dirt and crud get embedded into and now you've got a real mess to clean up.
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Old 01-14-2010, 09:16 PM   #16
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Thanks, Donna, and you read me exactly as I meant it

Just to clarify:

1) Leaks should not be left unchecked (unless the egg is under cover of course).
2) To really solve the leaks, you'll need to re-bed whatever is leaking (i.e. remove whatever is leaking - rivet, window, vent, etc. - clean the substrate, and then re-install the item with bedding (butyl, etc.) under the flange - not on top!.

However, you were asking about storing the egg, and since that's usually the off-season, when it is often cold outside, I offered 3M #225 tape as a temporary solution that would get you by for a few months and then be easily removable when you wanted to fix the leaks properly. I didn't figure you would be using the egg with the tape on it, so I wasn't thinking the cosmetics would be a problem (If I mis-understood and you were asking about a long-term fix I'm sorry about that.)

In my opinion, leaving the leaks - even if only short term - is not a good idea, as moisture from leaks is probably the number one "killer" of our eggs.

I would strongly suggest you do not use silicone. There are two problems with it:

1) It will usually not do the job very effectively (not as effectively as butyl, for example).
2) It will often be extremely hard to remove , and even when you have "removed" it, an invisible contaminating oil will remain. This oil will make it hard for any new sealant to stick, and will be-devil you if you (or anyone else) ever wants to paint the egg.

I'm a big fan of butyl, however if you don't want to use it, there are other caulks that will do the job, such as polyurethane, polysulfide, etc. (depending on what you are sealing).

I hope that clarifies - and sorry if I caused confusion.

Raya
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Old 01-16-2010, 06:56 PM   #17
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I'm a big fan of butyl, however if you don't want to use it, there are other caulks that will do the job, such as polyurethane, polysulfide, etc. (depending on what you are sealing).

Raya
Butyl is what people like? I think I have some of that in a ball zip-locked but I didn't know what people call it. Similar to electrical duct seal tape except grey instead of black. I'll give that a shot and see if it seals the rivet leaks. I was planning new rivets anyways as a few of the ones that hold the cabinet above the kitchen are starting to largen the holes. No good! Hence the small leaks.

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Old 01-17-2010, 09:07 PM   #18
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i'd like to add that it is important to pay close attention if your trailer is stored during a period of time that might be humid and/or cool at the same time. Even with leaks fixed, moisture vapour will still find it way into the trailer ( I am pretty sure most aren't hermetically sealed, my trillium has drain holes in the holds even if I close everything else up). Some moisture vapour in the trailer becomes a problem when parts of the inside are colder than the dewpoint of the outside air. The resulting condensation can drip and pool and if it gets onto anything organic can grow into mold.
here is a link to a very good online calculator that helps to monitor the likelyhood of mold, rust and rot when things are stored in different environments.

http://www.dpcalc.org/

I bring this up because where you live may have a lot to do with how easy or difficult it is to store without problems. A lightbulb or chemical dessicant may be fine for someone with a cold dry winter (or nothing at all may be needed) but if you are in a damp region with warmer days and cool nights, bigger steps may be needed.

-Kevin
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Old 01-18-2010, 03:14 AM   #19
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Quote:
To winterize, I remove all cloth and paper items from my trailer, cover and leave a 75 watt bulb on. The moisture just sucks into any cloth/paper and helps the mold, so I store those items in my closet...the bulb keeps it just a bit warmer so the air is a bit dryer....though the "heat" does tend to stratify in the trailer.
My grandfather used a light bulb in his chicken coop so that the roosters' combs wouldn't freeze. It wasn't all that effective until he placed it inside a vertical piece of ducting. I suppose a large can would also work. It provided a 'chimney effect' which kept the warm air circulating.
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Old 02-10-2010, 10:57 PM   #20
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Finally finished the rivets, re-did all the ones with acorn nuts on the inside (ie: none of the curtain rivets). Added a washer on the outside to distribute the pressure better and compressed it with butyl in the hole. I want to order new curtain holders from Scamp and will do that on a camping trip.

Have not put it back outside, still have to clean the inside with some bleach and then soap. Also got new foam for the cushions this year. GOing to be nice!

Next job is a new axle.
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