To the scamp gurus - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-11-2020, 10:02 AM   #1
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Name: bob
Trailer: Was A-Liner now 13f Scamp
Missouri
Posts: 3,075
To the scamp gurus

after our 2 week quartzite trip I have determined I am going to fix my door on our scamp 13f.

it appears to me our door has warped it has a good gap at the bottom. thought of heating it up with a hair dryer and rebending it no doubt it will return back to its previous position. Car guys do it to car doors by the way!

I have new door hinge repair kits haven't tried this yet I hate to make it worse!

or try to figure out a new door seal gap may be too big for this even!

sort of in a quandary for the warm weather

bob
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Old 02-11-2020, 10:26 AM   #2
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Name: Alexander
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1300
New Hampshire
Posts: 736
Bob, if I were doing it I would get everything else set the way I want it. That would include using the hinge repair kit and optionally a new door seal. Once I have all that taken care of, then I would revisit the warp. That way you don't fix the warp only to find the door still doesn't fit correctly after doing the hinge repair and any other fixes.
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Old 02-11-2020, 10:33 AM   #3
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Name: bob
Trailer: Was A-Liner now 13f Scamp
Missouri
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correct

Alex about the way I was thinking looking at the Scamps hinges they look so strange to me as they are put on.

no doubt lots of work coming.

thanks

bob

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex Adams View Post
Bob, if I were doing it I would get everything else set the way I want it. That would include using the hinge repair kit and optionally a new door seal. Once I have all that taken care of, then I would revisit the warp. That way you don't fix the warp only to find the door still doesn't fit correctly after doing the hinge repair and any other fixes.
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Old 02-11-2020, 10:38 AM   #4
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Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
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to the scamp gurus

The usual cause for a gap at the bottom only, with the rest of the door aligned correctly, is water infiltration from the window rotting out the wood core. A hair dryer wonít fix that. Try drilling some test holes at the bottom of the thick part of the door on the inside and do some probing.

I agree with Alex about getting the hinges right first. For high quality hinge rebuild kits, visit member Ian Gilesí Camping Treasures online store.
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Old 02-11-2020, 10:44 AM   #5
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Name: Alexander
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1300
New Hampshire
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k0wtz View Post
Alex about the way I was thinking looking at the Scamps hinges they look so strange to me as they are put on.
On my boler, when I went camping the first time, the door flew open while driving(I lost a plastic bag with sheets and a blanket). I used a hinge repair kit and the door has stayed shut ever since. I know I have a funky situation with the bottom hinge where it is bolted to the trailer body. Once I have replaced the door seal, that is my next item. I will have to peel back the ensolite to see why the hinge is not sitting properly on the side of the trailer. It almost looks like it is slightly tilted towards the front of the trailer.
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Old 02-11-2020, 03:35 PM   #6
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Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
California
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Make sure
The wall behind the hinges is still bonded to the floor and the sub structure is solid. There is old posts describing kerfing the inside bottom of the door to rearch it and fiberglassing the inside of th door
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Old 02-11-2020, 04:14 PM   #7
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Name: Terry
Trailer: 1971 Hunter compact Jr, 1979 Terry 19', 2003 Scamp 16'
California
Posts: 124
As with Alex, my door decided not to stay closed. I used a hinge kit from Scamp and a new latch (interior and exterior since mine was worn) for good measure. The hinge kit did the job. The door lines up well. No gaps which I had before.
Watch that the nuts don't loosen. The problem I still have with it is the nylok nut on the top pin keeps loosening up and falling off. I've used locktite and gorilla glue. Next either double nut or drill and pin it.
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Old 02-11-2020, 05:45 PM   #8
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Name: bob
Trailer: Was A-Liner now 13f Scamp
Missouri
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best idea

well it sounds like the hinge rebuild kit is the best idea which I have. I have just been uneasy about doing this for some reason. I got the kit a long time ago from Giles.

I guess I will start on it as soon as it warms up some in Missouri right now I cant move it. It is almost stuck in the yard as it had snowed when we got back.

warm weather coming will give it a shot. its a scary thought but I will do it.

bob
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Old 02-11-2020, 09:43 PM   #9
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Name: Alexander
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1300
New Hampshire
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It's nothing to be scared of. It's super easy and Giles has the instructions on his website. Just make sure to thoroughly clean the cups on the hinges after removing the old balls. Also check for burrs carefully with your finger and smooth them if there are any.
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Old 02-12-2020, 12:05 AM   #10
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Name: Terry
Trailer: 1971 Hunter compact Jr, 1979 Terry 19', 2003 Scamp 16'
California
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Are you just doing the kit or our you thinking of the entire hinge. The kit is a bolt, a ball, a spring and a nut for each hinge. You do one at a time. I had no burrs or other problems. It took about 20minutes for the 2 hinges.
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Old 02-12-2020, 08:38 AM   #11
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Name: bob
Trailer: Was A-Liner now 13f Scamp
Missouri
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20 ms

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry in Fowler View Post
Are you just doing the kit or our you thinking of the entire hinge. The kit is a bolt, a ball, a spring and a nut for each hinge. You do one at a time. I had no burrs or other problems. It took about 20minutes for the 2 hinges.
well I like the 20 minute part that means 2 or 3 hours for me. But this door has been bothering me since I bought the trailer. the only thing it needs right now.

thanks guys

bob
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Old 02-12-2020, 12:51 PM   #12
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FWIW, I just ordered the "new" rib door seal from Scamp. It came with a massive piece of foamy weather stripping for the bottom of the door that I wasn't expecting. I haven't installed it yet but it looks very useful for sealing up gap issues for older doors that have maybe lost a little curve down there.
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1983 13' Scamp
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Old 02-12-2020, 01:09 PM   #13
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Name: bob
Trailer: Was A-Liner now 13f Scamp
Missouri
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well now I am calling scamp for a new seal. maybe that is what I need!


bob thanks
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Old 02-19-2020, 01:36 PM   #14
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Name: John
Trailer: Boler
British Columbia
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The main issue I have had with locating and installing the new Scamp hinges on my Boler door is that they are identical to each other. The original Boler hinges ( now toast) were clearly marked with numbers, 1 and 2.and were mounted one for the top and one for the bottom. I see that this was because the door has different curves from top hinge location to bottom. I am still trying to figure that one out.
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Old 02-19-2020, 04:39 PM   #15
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Name: Kevin
Trailer: Scamp
Kansas
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It’s most likely going to need a “rebuild” (i.e., the kerf-job). I’ve done 2 scamp doors like that. It can be done.
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Old 02-19-2020, 05:16 PM   #16
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Name: lee
Trailer: trailswest campsterl, 1996 Scamp 16 foot
Idaho
Posts: 541
Scamp door

I went to the Scamp site parts department to look for the new seal and couldn't find it but did find that they sell a door for the newer model and one for the older models for $385.00 Lee and Norma p.s. it's under fiberglass parts
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Old 02-19-2020, 07:57 PM   #17
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Name: John
Trailer: Boler
British Columbia
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Thanks Doc Kev. Ever so briefly could you explain what a "kerf job" is?
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Old 02-19-2020, 11:04 PM   #18
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Name: Ray
Trailer: scamp
Indiana
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I have a gap at the bottom of mine. But a close look shows that as a design. Apparently this is to allow air in. Not sure if that is needed or not. But figure I have bigger problems. Did have to replace the board on the right where the hinges are on the inside.

Might ask the people at scamp. They actually are very helpful.
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Old 02-19-2020, 11:41 PM   #19
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Name: Kevin
Trailer: Scamp
Kansas
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Water gets into the doors and damages the wood inside, under the window. The door curve relaxes or sags. The best fix is to remove door, remove Window & rat fur, cut the fiberglass off under the window, scrape out all the particle-board-mush, replace rotten particle board with quality “kerf cut” wood, use ratchet straps to hold door in correct curvature, treat the new wood with fiberglass resin (prevent future water damage), replace the piece that had been cut off and glass it all back together with fiberglass cloth/resin, seal the window better-than-it-was, replace rat fur (I use 3M 90 spray glue), replace trim, reinstall door. There’s a few videos & more detailed tutorials online. Both our Scamps have needed this. But the diagnostic is to drill a hole near the bottom of the door; if it’s waterlogged you’ll see the water drain out of the hole. I would steer you away from the other “easier” fixits (i.e., the cable technique) because you need to address the actual cause of the door problem. If I can do it, anyone can do it.
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Old 02-20-2020, 05:55 AM   #20
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Name: Gary
Trailer: Scamp
Mass
Posts: 15
My Scamp Fiberglass Egg Camper: 2017


This blog page has details on how to repair a sagging door. It will take a whole afternoon.


My Scamp Fiberglass Egg Camper: 2017


Good luck.
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