Water Pressure Regulator - Fiberglass RV
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Old 01-25-2006, 02:15 PM   #1
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Thanks for all info on the workings of the BIGFOOT water system.
Question though. I had purchased a flow regulator (to 45lbs) and hooked up to house water then to camper. Low water pressure. When I looked at fill, there appears to be some kind of regulator or flow valve installed (could this be a back flow preventor of some kind? Could there already be an internal pressure regulator and what I am doing is reducing to 25 lbs or so?) I took flow regulator off and hooked up directly to house pressure (but only turned on hose a quarter turn) Now great water pressure at shower, no leaks. Wonder if anyone out there has experience with this???
Thanks,
Water Jeff
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Old 01-25-2006, 03:36 PM   #2
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Jeff,
If you have, or can borrow (or even purchase) a water pressure guage, you might check whether the new pressure regulator is working correctly. On second thought, a pressure guage is an excellent, inexpensive tool to own! I've seen hose adapters that screw on a kitchen or bathroom faucet once the aerator has been removed. That would allow a pressure check where it counts. Also check the pressure at the end of the hose prior to attaching the regulator and compare the readings. That way you'll know whether there is a "hidden" regulator or you have a defective one.
You really don't want to experience the grief which can be caused by too much water pressure. Any good plumber can expound at length on the subject.

Hope this helps,
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Old 01-25-2006, 03:44 PM   #3
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When you say low water pressure how are you checking it? With pressure gauge?

The pressure regulator is designed to protect the trailer water system from external water pressure. With it in the system you will get lower water pressure in the trailer.

There should be a one way check valve at the connection for the water hose. If it is not there you will pump water overboard when your internal water pump is on.
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Old 01-26-2006, 09:17 PM   #4
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It's appropriate to use a pressure regulator at the faucet end of the hose, even though your trailer may have a pressure regulator built into the city water inlet. The regulator at the faucet end will not only protect the trailer plumbing, but it'll protect the hose from pressure as well. A hose that is under pressure that lies in the hot sun ends up looking like a python that swallowed a pig if it doesn't have a pressure regulator on the faucet!

Don't ask me how I know this...

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Old 01-27-2006, 06:19 AM   #5
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Pressure regulators with and without gauges, and gauge only at

Camping World ....Pressure Regulators & Gauges
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Old 01-27-2006, 06:39 AM   #6
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A pressure regulator between hose bib and hose is a cheap method to help protect the plumbing. I bought a brass regulator at Wal-Mart for less than $7. I also added quick connections on the hose end...easy on, easy off
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Old 01-27-2006, 08:46 AM   #7
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Thanks for all info on the workings of the BIGFOOT water system.
Question though. I had purchased a flow regulator (to 45lbs) and hooked up to house water then to camper. Low water pressure. When I looked at fill, there appears to be some kind of regulator or flow valve installed (could this be a back flow preventor of some kind? Could there already be an internal pressure regulator and what I am doing is reducing to 25 lbs or so?) I took flow regulator off and hooked up directly to house pressure (but only turned on hose a quarter turn) Now great water pressure at shower, no leaks. Wonder if anyone out there has experience with this???
Thanks,
Water Jeff
Is it the pressure of the water or the volume of flow? It's possible to have a very high pressure and a very low volume (eg. you can have 100 lb pressure thru a 1/4" water line but only a few gpm volume). If you have two regulators in your system it's quite possible that the one on the outside is 45 psi and the inside is 43 psi resulting in zip for flow. How is the water flow thru the hose with the press reg. on the hose but not connected to the trailer? It could be defective too.
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Old 01-27-2006, 08:47 AM   #8
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My shower has got the lowest pressure of all. It's nowhere near what my house shower is, but then I don't expect it to be. How's the pressure in the rest of the trailer? If it's okay, then your regulator is probably working okay. If not, you may have purchased a faulty regulator. I never had a problem with mine, but I have heard that others have. Like Nick said, the thing on your trailer is a check valve that allows your system to stay pressurized when the pump is on. It should not restrict the flow from city water.
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Old 01-31-2006, 07:27 PM   #9
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I would like to add that I've found it a good idea to add a screened washer between the faucet and regulator. I've had a couple regulators ruined by sandy campground water before I figured this out.
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Old 01-31-2006, 07:39 PM   #10
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If you have two regulators in your system it's quite possible that the one on the outside is 45 psi and the inside is 43 psi resulting in zip for flow.
I do not believe this is true. Pressure regulators work by reducing flow (and yes, stoping flow) when the pressure on the output side reaches regulated pressure. If you have two regulators, one at the outside one at 45 PSI and the inside at 43 PSI, each will do it's job. If the pressure before the first regulator is over 45 PSI, the pressure after the regulator will be 45 PSI, and the pressure coming out of the second regulator will be 43 PSI.

I've permanantly installed a water pressure gauge in my Scamp 16, and to my surprise I see 150 PSI when I fire up my water heater. The built-in pump provides about 40 PSI. If I use my pressure regulator I see around 45 PSI. If I just hook up the hose to my home's water supply, I see about 60 PSI.

High water pressure isn't something to get too worked up about. The only leak I've had was a defective factory T fitting near the furnace.

-- Dan Meyer
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Old 01-31-2006, 08:26 PM   #11
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I think the important point about multiple pressure regulators is that they set a high limit for pressure on (as Dan said) the output side.

If the regulator at the supply end of the hose is set for 45 PSI and the one at the trailer end is set for 43 PSI (for instance), that only means the trailer end is no more than 43 PSI, and could be a lot less - I would not expect the flow to be choked back to keep the pressure up. Although even a wide-open regulator will have some resistance to flow, I would not expect a problem with a reasonable number of multiple regulators. That is based on experience with other hydraulic systems, not specifically travel trailers.

Personally, I have a regulator and have only used it so far in my brief experience at the trailer end of the hose, because it haven't been worried about protecting the hose, but I have read that burst hoses have been a problem for some people.
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