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05-03-2010, 08:48 PM
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#1
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Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American ('The USS NeverSail')
Posts: 82
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We have replaced the axle on our 1972 Boler. The original axle was locked in the up position about 10 to 15 degrees up. After we replaced the axle John cut the old one in two so we could see just how bad the axle looked on the inside. Its quite impressive what 38 yrs of wear and tear looks like. Thought that others would be interested in seeing what it looks like.
__________________
John and Jaci | Our furry friends Chief and Scampy
1972 Boler American - The USS NeverSail | 2012 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited
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05-03-2010, 08:52 PM
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#2
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Member
Trailer: 1973 Boler 1300 (Glass-Fab
Posts: 96
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I'm about to find out. My hard-riding '73 Boler axle is being exchanged as I write.
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05-04-2010, 02:52 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,141
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Thank you,
That picture should become a "sticky" for everyone to see why they should replace their axle when it looks OK from the outside.
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05-04-2010, 06:51 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
Posts: 3,007
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Just curious: What would a cross section of a good axle look like?
Raya
PS: I don't doubt this one was shot; just don't know how a good/new cross section would look as I have never seen one cut open.
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05-04-2010, 07:52 PM
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#5
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Member
Trailer: 1973 Boler 1300 (Glass-Fab
Posts: 96
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I would imagine that the rubbers would be in the corners of the outer tube, with the inner tube at 45 degrees to the outer tube, nestled in the nice bouncy rubbers, and not all filled with rusty grundge.
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05-04-2010, 08:03 PM
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#6
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Member
Trailer: 1978 Trillium 13 ft
Posts: 65
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Quote:
Just curious: What would a cross section of a good axle look like?
Raya
PS: I don't doubt this one was shot; just don't know how a good/new cross section would look as I have never seen one cut open.
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typically the center tube is at 45 degrees to the outer tube and the rubber on each corner would have been symetrical. The way I have been told to tell if it is burnt out is to measure the angle of offset of the inner tube from the outer tube. I don't know how far they can move before they are too far gone but the picture of the cut one above you can tell they are probably gone.
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05-05-2010, 08:08 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1983 13 ft Scamp
Posts: 3,082
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This is what mine looked like also before I replaced it.
Arm should be pointing down NOT up.
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05-05-2010, 12:41 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2009 Trillium 13 ft ('Homelet') / 2000 Subaru Outback
Posts: 2,222
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Quote:
This is what mine looked like also before I replaced it.
Attachment 27878
Arm should be pointing down NOT up.
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Hmmm. Maybe if you removed your anvil collection from the trailer...
__________________
A charter member of the Buffalo Plaid Brigade!
Whether you think you can or think you can't, you're right.
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05-05-2010, 06:09 PM
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#9
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Member
Trailer: 73 UNIK 13 ft (DEUCE) '71 Boler 13 ft (DEUCE II)
Posts: 46
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Thanks for those pics, that is just what I have been wondering, I'm preparing to replace axles on two trailers, nice to see the inner workings!
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05-05-2010, 08:22 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Trailer: Boler 1300 1973
Posts: 114
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Quote:
This is what mine looked like also before I replaced it.
Attachment 27878
Arm should be pointing down NOT up.
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It looks exactly like before mine was replace 2 days ago, even the arms did hit the floor a couple of times (from what I can see, before I bought it). My Boler looked like a low-rider, now it's ready to go camping on some rough roads to go fishing.
You can see how my Boler was low before and how it is after, I also provided the link to where I had it done in that post:
Boler axle replacement
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Boler 1300 1973
Jeep Wrangler 2dr 2012
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05-05-2010, 08:45 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,141
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Quote:
Just curious: What would a cross section of a good axle look like?
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Cut away views can be seen on the torflex documentaion here:
http://i.b5z.net/i/u/1080235/f/Torfl...ation_4-04.pdf
The square axle and tube are at 45 degrees to each other and the 4 peices of rubber are round fitting nicely into the triangular spaces between them.
Maybe someone here knows how to copy a picture from the PDF to post it.
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05-06-2010, 12:46 AM
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#12
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Member
Trailer: 1973 Boler 1300 (Glass-Fab
Posts: 96
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Quote:
Maybe someone here knows how to copy a picture from the PDF to post it.
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Yup!
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05-06-2010, 10:21 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,141
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Way to go Mike!
Does that help you Raya?
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05-06-2010, 10:26 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
Posts: 3,007
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Yes, thank you!
So it looks like the rubber "bands" should be more round and the inner square should be at 45º to the outer tube, as you-all mentioned. Thanks!
Raya
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05-06-2010, 10:47 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2007 19 ft Escape 5.0 / 2002 GMC (1973 Boler project)
Posts: 4,149
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Hi: All...Ok!!! Who's going to sacrifice their new axle for a "Cut AwayView".
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie
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05-07-2010, 12:13 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2009 Trillium 13 ft ('Homelet') / 2000 Subaru Outback
Posts: 2,222
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What is the advantage of using rubber? Does it provide a dampening action like a shock absorber?
I recall when torsion bar suspensions came out on cars. It was a steel bar secured to the frame at one end and to the wheel at the other. Much simpler than leaf or coil springs. They also required shocks, though.
__________________
A charter member of the Buffalo Plaid Brigade!
Whether you think you can or think you can't, you're right.
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05-07-2010, 01:19 AM
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#17
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Member
Trailer: 1973 Boler 1300 (Glass-Fab
Posts: 96
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A torsion bar is basically a straight spring. A coil spring is torsion bar wrapped up in a helix.
The rubber has a viscous response when deformed, hence it is also a shock absorber.
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