Wheel bearings

[JOE DRISSEL]

The manuel for my 87 S13 lists the wheel bearings as L44643 which is for a 1'' spindle. Mine has 1- 1/16'' spindles which use L44649 bearings. Is this a heavier than normal axle.

[Roger H]

Joe,

If your axle is a Dexter, you can record the info off the plate on the axle and send it to Dexter. They can tell you the specs of that axle.

Scamp has progressively used heavier axles over the years, but I don't know specifically what axle yours may have under it. As a guess, it may be a Dexter #9 rubbered at either 1500 or 1800 lbs. I think (stress think here as it always gets me in trouble) that Scamp has gone to the #9 axle with a 2000 lb rating for the 13' in the late model trailers.

Roger

[Pete Dumbleton]

My 91S13 has 1 1/16" spindles and uses the same bearing on both inner and outer.

I just discovered two years ago that the CONE (the part in the hub that the bearing rides in) for a 1" and a 1 1/16" bearing set are the same; only the bearings matching the spindle diameters will be different. Check the numbers on the two sets at Wally or at parts store. The hubs are apparently also identical.

It's possible that early Bolers, Scamps and Casitas used a 1" spindle on the 13', but I really don't know.

[Benny K]

Pete, you and I went to different schools I guess....I learned that the bearing, which is the cone containing the rollers, runs in a cup which is pressed into the hub....Benny

[Pete Dumbleton]

That's why I described where the part fit -- I have gone to different bearing sites and seen differing nomenclature -- I originally called the Cone a Cup, but the Dexter stuf called it a Cone, so that's what I wrote.

A typical Scamp bearing has four kinds of parts, but they seem to have at least five names:

Cone
Cup
--Cage
--Rollers
--Race

Here's an extract from a Dexter PDF for the #9 axle:

Item Part No. Description
1 010-009-00 Grease Seal
1A 010-060-00 Grease Seal for E-Z Lube™
2 031-031-02 L44649 Inner Bearing Cone
3 031-031-01 L44610 Inner Bearing Cup
4 031-031-01 L44610 Outer Bearing Cup
5 031-031-02 L44649 Outer Bearing Cone
6 006-176-00 Spindle Nut 12 castellation
6A 006-001-00 Spindle Nut - E-Z Lube™ only 6 c

Referring to the picture in the PDF, the cup is the bearing assembly with the rollers and the cone goes into the hub.

Pete

[Brian B-P]

Just so everyone's on the same page (literally), the exploded view of "440 and 545 Hub Group" parts from Dexter is on the 5th page (but labeled page "- 15 -" because it is page 15 of the complete catalog) of the Dexter 1000-2200 lb axle product information . I assume that this is the right set, judging from the part numbers, but I'm not familiar with Scamp history. The Dexter Complete Catalog Index identifies Torflex Model #9 as the 1000-2200 lb capacity version, which makes sense for a 13' Scamp.

In this Dexter document, "inner" refers to the inboard (towards the frame) bearing and "outer" refers to the outboard (towards the end of the spindle) bearing. They appear to include the rollers (and the cage which holds them together) with the cone (#2 and #5, both L44649); they must be trapped together, which is not typically true of automotive bearings.

Sorry Pete, I'm with Benny on this one:

• cones
  • bearing races in which the rollers run on the outside of the tapered surface
    
  • inside or smaller diameter race of the bearing
    
  • mounted on the spindle, placing them on the ends of the assembly, bearing surfaces facing inward
    
  • complete with rollers and cages in Dexter bearings
    
  • e.g. Dexter 031-031-02, a.k.a. L44649
• cups
  • bearing races in which the rollers run on the tapered inside surface
    
  • outer or larger diameter race of the bearing
    
  • mounted in the hub, in the middle of the assembly, bearing surfaces facing outward
    
  • e.g. Dexter 031-031-01, a.k.a. L44610

By the way, I find this use of the same size of bearing for both inboard and outboard bearing strange; I would expect the outboard to be smaller, as shown in Dexter's E-Z Lube System drawing, and apparently as used in larger Dexter axles.

Joe, a version of the Dexter complete catalog which I downloaded last year (not quite the same as the current one) has a bearing replacement chart, and the L44643 isn't shown for any size, so my guess is that Dexter changed from a 1" outer (or both) bearing to 1-1/16" by the time your 1987 Scamp was built, but Scamp had not yet changed their manual. Even the 600-1000 lb Dexter axles now use the same L44649/L44610 bearings.

[Loren G. Hedahl]

One little "tip" is when you get this all sorted out and your new bearings installed, don't throw the old ones away.

Instead, clean them up, repack them with grease and seal them up in a plastic baggy along with cottter keys or whatever else needed to do the job. Store them in some out-of-the-way spot in your trailer and remember where they are. Some eventful day they may just save the day, your pocket book and composure.

[Benny K]

I`d buy 3 sets of bearings and put a new set away....if you`re going to change a bearing on the road, it may as well be a new one, for the amount of work involved and the price....Benny

[Bob Cupp]

I go one step farther than carrying an extra set of bearings. I carry a complete hub with greased bearings, cotter key, axle nut and dust cap. I had a hub break on one of our trips a few years ago and was lucky to find a shop that gave me a deal on a new one for ONLY $95. The guy acted like he was doing me a favor at that price.

When I replaced the axle on my Love Bug, it came with new hubs so now I just carry a spare hub all ready to go.

[Pete Dumbleton]

I stand corrected I read the Dexter diagram incorrectly -- The cone goes in the cup.

For those who have the 1 1/16" bearings, where the two bearing sets are the same, it is important when cleaning used bearings to keep the original cup/cone sets together as they will be worn to fit each other.

I carry a complete set of bearings, seals, nuts, washers, grease cap, etc., so that even if I have to have them fixed at a garage, I don't have to wait a couple of days for parts.

[MyronL]

I am stumped on how to remove the race, cone, cup, whatever. OK, the package with new bearings I bought calls it a "race". So race is my problem. I removed both bearings but can't seem to tap out the race. Anyone have a tip on tapping this, please?

I can't tell what brand this axle is, if that's needed. What looks like a data plate is long-gone-corroded. Brought the big "hub" (?) to Trailerama and the guy picked out the right size replacement bearings kit for me. He said, "Just tap out the race." Yeah, well.....

[Bob Cupp]

Remember that to remove the race, you have to work from the inside of the hub. You put the drift (tool for pounding on an item without damaging the item) through the hole in the hub and push the pieces out, not in. I saw a guy beating on a hub and he was trying to push the races through the hub, not out of it.

[MyronL]

Right. I understand that. But what is a drift tool? My attempts have been with a cold chisel and ball peen hammer, tapping from the opposite side in, but have failed to make it budge.

[Benny K]

Well Myron, if your shop/garage is well equipped, you`ll have a set of bearing drivers which are different diameter slugs used to drive bearings in or out, but if you don`t , like me, the best thing that I use is a brass shaft,(for want of a better word), and drive the bearing race out with it and a hammer....hit side face of the bearing in various different spots so that it `ll come out fairly straight.....you can use a steel drift punch also with at least a 1/4' shank, preferably larger dia. ....put the hub on something solid to gain maximum impact power from the hammer blows.....hope this works for you...good luck and don`t miss too often with the hammer or a very sore hand could ensue, ....oh, and don`t forget your safety glasses, new eyes are hard to get......Benny

[Jana J]

I knew I had a good reason for taking mine to the tire place to have it greased, but I forgot what it was. NOW I remember. Good luck on your wheel adventure.

[DianeP]

Myron,

I've always done it pretty much the way you describe. I don't have any of the "right tools" either. Keep tapping around the race from the inside, it will come out slowly. You could try heating the hub with a propane torch. That might loosen things just enough.

On the reinstall of the new race make sure everything is clean, apply a little grease and press straight in with a vice or something like that. I have used a large washer that just fits inside the hub to place over the race to protect it during pressing. (OK, I had to grind the washer down just a little bit) When the race and washer are flush with the hub add the largest socket you have on top of the washer and press the race home. Make sure the race is set to go in straight. As you know from the removal process there is little tolerance for waper-jawed insertion.

Patience is important, the bigger hammer may help; but the races are very hard and can be cracked. Be careful.

Good luck,

Dave and Diane

[Pete Dumbleton]

Be VERY careful using a drift, chisel, screwdriver or any other steel tool to hammer the cup out of the hub -- If you manage to gouge the hub, you may not be able to ever seat cups properly again. Unless the cup is clearly bad, or the bearing cone is being replaced, there is no need to remove the cup.

Dexter sez this regarding removal of the cup (from the Service PDF); note they are using a BRASS drift:

When replacing the bearing cup proceed as follows:

1. Place the hub on a flat work surface with the cup to be
replaced on the bottom
side.

2. Using a brass drift punch,
carefully tap around the
small diameter end of the
cup to drive out.

3. After cleaning the hub bore
area, replace the cup by
tapping in with the brass
drift punch. Be sure the
cup is seated all the way
up against the retaining
shoulder in the hub.

[Gina D.]

I am stumped on how to remove the race, cone, cup, whatever.

1. Drive trailer to tire shop.
2. Go to the pub, golfing, or shopping for new socks.
3. Return to tire shop, pay a pitance (I think mine were like.. 30 bucks installed)
4. Drive trailer home with clean hands and clothes.



Thats how I do it.

[Jana J]

1. Drive trailer to tire shop.
2. Go to the pub, golfing, or shopping for new socks.
3. Return to tire shop, pay a pitance (I think mine were like.. 30 bucks installed)
4. Drive trailer home with clean hands and clothes.



Thats how I do it.

YES! another DIYer on the same page as me. I'll wire, fiberglass, and just about anything else, but those wheels are someone else's territory.

[Suz]

I do what Gina does and ditto what Jan said.