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06-03-2015, 05:07 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Name: Rick
Trailer: TBA
Wisconsin
Posts: 145
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Slightly off topic newby question. If my site if fairly level could I slide the Bal leveler around the tire and thus negate the need to carry a wheel chock? Or at least to only carry one chock.
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06-03-2015, 05:39 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Name: Rich
Trailer: 2015 Scamp 13D
Minnesota
Posts: 136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Badger
Slightly off topic newby question. If my site if fairly level could I slide the Bal leveler around the tire and thus negate the need to carry a wheel chock? Or at least to only carry one chock.
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Yes, the BAL will chock both sides (forward & backward) of the trailer tire it is slid around.
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06-03-2015, 05:55 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: Casita SD17 2006 "Missing Link"
California
Posts: 3,738
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Looks like we have a new addition for the hot topic list.
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06-03-2015, 06:33 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Borrego Dave
Looks like we have a new addition for the hot topic list.
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Wow, no kidding.
I'm cheap. I'd rather follow the advice of a manufacturer or experienced owners here, than hope what I think " seems HIGHLY unlikely" is really not my hope or opinion. But then again, I mentioned I'm cheap. Axles really aren't. I think putting any lifting device on the ends of the axle could be very bad practice. That's where the rubber torsion resides. Smoosh the axle, even a little bit, may prevent the rubber from working as it's designed.
My last comment on lifting on the axle: Just because you can, doesn't mean you should.
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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06-03-2015, 07:42 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
Posts: 11,925
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Why not just level with a jack?
Not just cheap, I'm lazy, too. To get a jack on the axle, you'd have to get down on your hands and knees and reach all the way around behind the wheel. It's what I have to do when I put the trailer up on jack stands for storage (except they go on the frame next to the axle, not the axle itself). All the other leveling options (blocks, BAL, Anderson) work from the front of the wheel. No crawling required.
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06-03-2015, 08:34 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Name: David
Trailer: Escape Trailers
Massachusetts
Posts: 213
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[QUOTE=Timber Wolf;526917][QUOTE=tractors1;526896]The bottle jack will bleed down -
Quote:
I had not thought of that, I may test your theory. My first thought was actually a scissor jack, but then I remembered I have the little bottle jack. I also agree with Byrons comment on stability, a constant worry to be sure. But, I do not agree with jacking on the axle damaging anything. The axle is a tube set up as a diamond shape and it seems HIGHLY unlikely it could be damaged by jacking anywhere near the ends. I think a nice scissor jack with a V (angle iron) welded on top to catch the axle would be the (cheap) ticket. There would not even be any crawling underneath with the longish, folding handle these jacks use. Just poke it under there and get to cranking. Junkyards must be full of scissor jacks. Oh wait, there is one under the back seat of my F-150 already!
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My Scamp 19 Owner's Manual said to not place a jack under the axle.
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06-03-2015, 08:36 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
Posts: 8,520
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Lego blocks and a good eye. That's the best way we have found.
Your eye gets better with a little practice until you are right nearly every time!
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06-03-2015, 09:03 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Name: David
Trailer: Former 13’Scamp, now Snoozy
Arizona
Posts: 2,316
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Tim, this is what I did on our 13' Scamp and now with our Lil Snoozy, I went to Harbor Freight and bought scissor jacks, and mounted them to the frame just behind the axle. I use my cordless electric drill to quickly level the trailer or to actually lift the tire off the ground to rotate tires, pack wheel bearings, etc.
Dave & Paula
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06-03-2015, 10:16 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Name: deryk
Trailer: 2012 Parkliner 2010 V6 Nissan Frontier 4x4
New Jersey
Posts: 2,085
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I think most of us carry a few things for leveling a trailer side to side depending on the situation. I have a few 2x8 boards and a set of Lego blocks and a BAL. If it is only a little off a board usually does it, if 1 board isn't enough it's Lego time and if it's more then that I use the BAL, or have to disconnect from the trailer. The BAL is a great tool to have for leveling your trailer and built in chock lol.
__________________
deryk
All that is gold does not glitter, Not all those who wander are lost; The old that is strong does not wither, Deep roots are not reached by the frost.... J.R.R. Tolkien
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06-03-2015, 10:38 PM
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#30
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Commercial Member
Name: Charlie Y
Trailer: Escape 21 - Felicity
Oregon
Posts: 1,583
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy P.
Byron you specifically highlighted Timberwolf's comment in regard to potential axle damage then providing a link that supposedly buttressed your position. It doesn't.
But, I do not agree with jacking on the axle damaging anything. The axle is a tube set up as a diamond shape and it seems HIGHLY unlikely it could be damaged by jacking anywhere near the ends
Of course Dexter doesn't want you to do something that is unsafe but it doesn't imply or state that damage is the reason for the warning. Again, it's a safety issue and should be respected as such. I don't disagree that it's a bad idea but there's no need for you to be insulting, jeesh.
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The bent Dexter axle I helped replace had very little wall thickness surrounding the rubber pieces used for torsional damping. NOT a strong beam as it appears; you crimp a corner of the diamond and the strips won't rotate freely anymore.
Charlie Y
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06-03-2015, 11:09 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman
The better way would be to use Legos under the low wheel. Wheels can and do slip off of wood when the wood gets wet in rain.
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been there done that and having the trailer slip off wet wood is not fun! Lego blocks weigh far less and take up less room than wood. Not to mention much cleaner to carry with you - just put them in the nylon zip pouch they come in.
While the BAL is nice to have if you have the room, unlike the BAL the Lego blocks are a multi use item. They are handy for other things as well. Putting under rear stabilizers & front tongue to stop then from sinking into the sand or gravel. I have used them for levelling a portable table & BQ, as well as a step into the trailer. A pack of 10 is less than $25.
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06-04-2015, 05:57 AM
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#32
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Senior Member
Trailer: Outback (by Trillium) 2004
Posts: 1,588
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I'm with Randy---the Anderson leveller is fantastic! No more going back and forth trying to get it right....just one time going backward and it levels. Bingo. Excellent product. Used it all last summer and won't go back to wooden boards or the lego blocks.
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06-04-2015, 08:17 AM
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#33
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Senior Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: Escape 21C
New York
Posts: 2,387
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I've used lego blocks, boards, etc but once I tried the Anderson Leveler, I never went back. Fast & easy!
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06-04-2015, 08:31 AM
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#34
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Senior Member
Name: Randy
Trailer: Casita Spirit Deluxe
Minnesota
Posts: 143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Vermilye
I've used lego blocks, boards, etc but once I tried the Anderson Leveler, I never went back. Fast & easy!
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I also like the fact that it's compact and fits nicely in the side storage compartment.
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06-04-2015, 08:40 AM
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#35
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Senior Member
Name: Rich
Trailer: 2015 Scamp 13D
Minnesota
Posts: 136
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Last night I sent Dexter Axels an email that asked: "Do you know if there is any danger to your axel if one uses the BAL wheel leveler device to level the trailer for short term camping trips (weekends, not months of storage)?"
Their reply was: "Lifting the weight of the trailer by any of the running gear suspension is not recommended."
So what is the physics of blocking one side of the trailer at a different level than the other? Should we always revert to using a frame jack to level?
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06-04-2015, 09:10 AM
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#36
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Commercial Member
Name: Charlie Y
Trailer: Escape 21 - Felicity
Oregon
Posts: 1,583
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich G. and Val F.
Last night I sent Dexter Axels an email that asked: "Do you know if there is any danger to your axel if one uses the BAL wheel leveler device to level the trailer for short term camping trips (weekends, not months of storage)?"
Their reply was: "Lifting the weight of the trailer by any of the running gear suspension is not recommended."
So what is the physics of blocking one side of the trailer at a different level than the other? Should we always revert to using a frame jack to level?
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Think about that lawyers reply..... Doesn't the torsion axle lift the weight of the trailer whenever you drive over bumps? I'm also a big Andersen leveler fan.
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06-04-2015, 09:13 AM
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#37
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Senior Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
Posts: 11,925
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??????
What's the difference between lifting a wheel on a BAL, running it up on blocks, or towing it over a bump? The wheels are the one component that is designed to carry the full weight of the trailer. Either they misunderstood your question, or we are misunderstanding their response, I think.
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06-04-2015, 09:13 AM
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#38
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Senior Member
Trailer: Class A Motorhome
Posts: 7,912
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Quote: "Their reply was: "Lifting the weight of the trailer by any of the running gear suspension is not recommended." (italics added)
Read between the lines.... lifting by the tire IS NOT a lifting by any part of the suspension, after all, it rides 1000's on miles on those tires.
Trailer-wise there is no difference between a BAL leveler and a set of blocks or a ramp.
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06-04-2015, 09:17 AM
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#39
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Vermilye
I've used lego blocks, boards, etc but once I tried the Anderson Leveler, I never went back. Fast & easy!
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Jon, I agree with you & the other users of the Anderson that it really does look like its the best option for levelling - can't get any easier than that!
Sadly will our falling loonie and the cost of shipping north I may have to have to wait and add it to my wish list from Santa next year and hope their elfs know about it! A bit surprised their have not been any knock offs made of it yet...
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06-04-2015, 09:42 AM
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#40
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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I am not sure why no one has mentioned the obvious. I have a pair of support jacks on the back of my trailer. I drop the tongue till the coupler is almost in the dirt. I deploy the rear jacks, eyballing the slope of the ground and adjusting the jack length to compensate. If the ground is soft, then I put down some lego blocks. Then I lift the tongue till the trailer is level, front to back. I usually get it within half a bubble left to right. If not, drop the tongue and try again.
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