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05-18-2011, 04:35 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: jim
Trailer: 2022 Escape19 pulled by 2014 Dodge Ram Hemi Sport
Pennsylvania
Posts: 6,710
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window rain water....
Being a new Egg owner, this is the first time I have experienced being inside the camper while raining. In addition, being a member here on the forum, there seems to be 2-3 main topics, one of which are/is leaks.
Are the windows supposed to allow water to come inside, accumulate and drip back out thru the weep holes, like condensation does in the winter? Why and how does the water get inside and as long as it leaves should I be concerned?
Thanks for your answers...
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05-18-2011, 05:14 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1982 Fiber Stream and 2001 Casita Spirit Deluxe (I'm down to 2!)
Posts: 1,989
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I thought maybe that was your Native American Nickname?
Do you mean when the windows are closed or open?
I can not imagine when closed that this is OK?
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05-18-2011, 05:41 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2009 17 ft Eggcamper / Chevy S-10
Posts: 699
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008
Are the windows supposed to allow water to come inside, accumulate and drip back out thru the weep holes,...
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Yes, that's normal. When be bought our Egg Jim made a point of telling us to occasionally run a wire, like a straightened paper clip through the drain slots to be sure they aren't clogged.
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05-19-2011, 07:06 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,604
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray N
Yes, that's normal. When be bought our Egg Jim made a point of telling us to occasionally run a wire, like a straightened paper clip through the drain slots to be sure they aren't clogged.
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Weed wacker cord works well too and no danger of scratching anything since it's not metal.
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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05-19-2011, 09:53 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Trailer: Eggcamper 17 ft Electric
Posts: 409
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Jim,
You can get condensation just about any time of year. There's quite a lot of moisture in everyone's breath and it will collect on any surface. I find that leaving a roof vent cracked open helps a lot to reduce condensation. I added a Max Air vent cover ( MaxxAir Roof Vent Covers - Product - Camping World ) over one of my roof vents so that I can leave the vent open a bit even when it rains.
Ron
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05-19-2011, 04:17 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: Jack
Trailer: '98 BURRO 17WB
Delaware
Posts: 2,548
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I can believe there's water in the bottom track and keeping the clearing ports under the little plastic caps clean will allow it to drain. I know nothing of Egg-brand eggs but will say that I don't have sheets of water running down the inside of the glass on my Burro. Perhaps "inside" just means the bottom track?
jack
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05-19-2011, 05:31 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: jim
Trailer: 2022 Escape19 pulled by 2014 Dodge Ram Hemi Sport
Pennsylvania
Posts: 6,710
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rabbit
I can believe there's water in the bottom track and keeping the clearing ports under the little plastic caps clean will allow it to drain. I know nothing of Egg-brand eggs but will say that I don't have sheets of water running down the inside of the glass on my Burro. Perhaps "inside" just means the bottom track?
jack
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I think there are only 3-4 different rv window manufacturers and all windows have drains for condensation on the inside. I guess as long as the water does not intrude there is no issue. Now the water around the tail/stop light gaskets are another story. I feeling that with holes in the floor, any water will just dissipate. With a fiberglass floor, what is there to worry about, as long as i'm not sinking!!!
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05-19-2011, 06:09 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Posts: 5,128
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We've got the Hehr jalousie windows. What we have found is even when they are closed some water will get into the outer channel. If the trailer is not fairly level it will enter the trailer through the weep holes and collect in the inner channel, pooling at the low point. Sit too long and it will over flow. It was not an issue with our last rig, which had sliders.
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05-20-2011, 04:58 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2009 17 ft Eggcamper / Chevy S-10
Posts: 699
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008
Now the water around the tail/stop light gaskets are another story.
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We too had the water issue from the rear lights. I caulked under the rubber gaskets and even put flowable silicone (also called windshield sealer) on the light covers themselves to seal between the lens and the bezel. Not a drop since. I had to use a hose with a nozzle to identify the offending lights, turns out there were two of them that leaked.
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05-20-2011, 05:26 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Trailer: Eggcamper 17 ft Electric
Posts: 409
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Jim,
The running lights on our EggCamper also leaked. (Our rig is unique, with 6 tail/turn lights... one of Jim Palmer's experiments.) When I replaced all of the running lights with LEDs, I also replaced the rubber gaskets around them. The center rear clearance light was the worst, because it was over the seam. I cleaned everything up and, like Ray, caulked where needed to provide a better seal. So far, so good.
Ron
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05-20-2011, 07:08 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: jim
Trailer: 2022 Escape19 pulled by 2014 Dodge Ram Hemi Sport
Pennsylvania
Posts: 6,710
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron F
Jim,
The running lights on our EggCamper also leaked. (Our rig is unique, with 6 tail/turn lights... one of Jim Palmer's experiments.) When I replaced all of the running lights with LEDs, I also replaced the rubber gaskets around them. The center rear clearance light was the worst, because it was over the seam. I cleaned everything up and, like Ray, caulked where needed to provide a better seal. So far, so good.
Ron
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I took the Egg out this weekend in pouring rain, found some wetness in rear along the water lines. I brought some butyl tape and will do the 4 big lights tomorrow. The little clearance lights will have to wait til I get home and get a ladder. I too replaced all the lights and rubber gaskets and yes the middle clearance was the bummer. What kind of caulk did you use or do you think the butyl will work?
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05-20-2011, 07:43 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2009 17 ft Eggcamper / Chevy S-10
Posts: 699
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I just used cheap latex caulk under the rubber gaskets. Flowable silicone on the lenses themselves. I did have a leak from the emergency window so I took it out and used butyl tape when I re-sealed it.
I do think Mr. Palmer could have done a little better job on quality control. The leaking rear lights, leaking emergency window, leaking hot water tank inlet, and leaking shower connections were all somewhat disconcerting. Although I fixed them all without too much problem, there shouldn't have been so many leaks to begin with. Doesn't Casita do a rain tunnel test on all it's campers before selling them? What a great idea.
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05-20-2011, 10:43 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron F
Jim,
You can get condensation just about any time of year. There's quite a lot of moisture in everyone's breath and it will collect on any surface. I find that leaving a roof vent cracked open helps a lot to reduce condensation. I added a Max Air vent cover ( MaxxAir Roof Vent Covers - Product - Camping World ) over one of my roof vents so that I can leave the vent open a bit even when it rains.
Ron
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I have a Window Maxx so I can leave a window open a bit.
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05-21-2011, 12:03 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Name: jim
Trailer: 2022 Escape19 pulled by 2014 Dodge Ram Hemi Sport
Pennsylvania
Posts: 6,710
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray N
I just used cheap latex caulk under the rubber gaskets. Flowable silicone on the lenses themselves. I did have a leak from the emergency window so I took it out and used butyl tape when I re-sealed it.
I do think Mr. Palmer could have done a little better job on quality control. The leaking rear lights, leaking emergency window, leaking hot water tank inlet, and leaking shower connections were all somewhat disconcerting. Although I fixed them all without too much problem, there shouldn't have been so many leaks to begin with. Doesn't Casita do a rain tunnel test on all it's campers before selling them? What a great idea.
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Ray,
I have read about Airstreams and other high end trailers with leaking plumbing connections and other trailers with window and vent leaks. Jim's theory, the less holes the better you are. It's like cars, some are built on a Friday and Monday which are lemons because most people call in sick on those days and a "temp" is working the shift. That is why I bought used, thinking the prior owner handles any issues. There were not any leaks when I bought the trailer, I created them by replacing the lights and hot water heater myself!!!
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05-21-2011, 12:16 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: Don
Trailer: Still deciding, but changing my mind from the Casita FD to the Lil Snoozy!
Texas
Posts: 237
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray N
Doesn't Casita do a rain tunnel test on all it's campers before selling them? What a great idea.
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Airstream does .
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05-22-2011, 04:36 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Trailer: Eggcamper 17 ft Electric
Posts: 409
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008
I took the Egg out this weekend in pouring rain, found some wetness in rear along the water lines. I brought some butyl tape and will do the 4 big lights tomorrow. The little clearance lights will have to wait til I get home and get a ladder. I too replaced all the lights and rubber gaskets and yes the middle clearance was the bummer. What kind of caulk did you use or do you think the butyl will work?
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Jim, When I first discovered the leak, I used a latex caulk with the original lights. When I replaced the lights, I think I only used it on the center clearance light. The others seemed to seal ok. That was a while back, and these days, if I don't write things down, they kinda fade away  .
Ron
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