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Old 09-25-2008, 08:04 AM   #21
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Trailer: 1989 Bigfoot 17 ft and 1989 Li'l Bigfoot 13 ft
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Leanne: you could install a winterizing valve anywhere along the water supply line between the tank and the pump - doesn't have to be right beside the pump if that helps.

Roger C H: If you're going to cover your egg a breathable cover should be used so there isn't moisture rotting between the tarp and egg, BUT a lot of people don't use covers as covers blowing in the wind can cause wear on the gel coat


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Lainey, once again I have some info and haven't a clue where it came from and I'm not certain all anode rods/plugs are the same size, but this is the info I've saved for myself.
Thanks Donna, that was just what I needed to know. You and that computer of yours are a treasure trove of information!
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Old 09-29-2008, 10:35 PM   #22
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Leanne: you could install a winterizing valve anywhere along the water supply line between the tank and the pump - doesn't have to be right beside the pump if that helps.
Thanks. I picked up a a hose and adapter and temporarily attached it to the water pump to get the antifreeze in. Now I'm all winterized and it's nice out again!!! Guess that's what you get when a new trailer owner, better safe then sorry.
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Old 09-30-2008, 03:48 PM   #23
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Lainey,

Atwood 6 gal water heaters don't have anode rods from the factory, they just have a plastic (or brass) plug. Normally, a mechanic's socket of the proper size will work nicely to remove it.

Roger
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Old 09-30-2008, 07:18 PM   #24
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Roger, Yes, that's eggsactly what I found out - brass plug.
Ended up being an 11/16" size with a thin wall that did the trick.
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Old 10-01-2008, 02:15 AM   #25
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I have one cautionary note for those who have anode rods in the water heater.

Anode rods are available in three flavors: zinc, aluminum and magnesium. I personally avoid the zinc and aluminum rods and always buy magnesium. Ingesting excessive amounts of zinc or aluminum is not a good idea (Google it).

If you never use water from the water heater for cooking or beverages, it shouldn't matter.
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Old 10-06-2008, 07:42 AM   #26
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Hi: all... Do I really have to bother Aunty Freeze or can I just drain all tanks, traps, and water lines??? I really dont like the idea of a pink drink...unless it has a celery stick in it!!!
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie
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Old 10-06-2008, 01:49 PM   #27
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Alf, if you use a compressor and schrader valve fitting, you can blow the lines out which is just as effective as anti-freeze, just not nearly as fast or easy. I've done both, not initially wanting to use anti-freeze either, and after a couple of years of doing that, I've become an anti-freeze convert.

If you just blow out the lines, make sure that each side of each tap is open until it's blowing air only, no water at all. Also, I used to leave the taps open all winter. Make sure you blow out the outside shower lines, the commode valve, and that you disassemble the pump and blow the water out of it, and any strainer before or after the pump that you may have.

Frankly, it got to be such a nuisance chasing all the nooks and crannies down, I gave up and started using anti-freeze which pretty much guarantees that if the nook and/or cranny is plumbed, it doesn't get overlooked.

Roger
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Old 10-09-2008, 05:22 PM   #28
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Hi: Roger...and thanks!!! I dropped into my local R.V. Dealer this A.M. to ask some questions and he said he would winterize the trailer for $50.00. Then he said "where do you live"??? I have two to do this afternoon and I could come by and do yours!!! It was that easy... how could I say NO???
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie
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