12vdc interior lights not working in Burro

[rabbit]

I just got my running light problem IDd (I won't say solved because those wire nuts are still in the aft seat lockers getting ready to vibrate free again) and now I've lost interior DC. This evening I was attempting to install curtain rods in the rear dinette with self-adhesive rod hangers. I turned on both banks of airplane type spots back there. Few minutes later I discovered the glare was right in my eyes and I could get along with what daylight was left so I turned all four off. About twenty minutes later, I turned one on to admire my effort and no light. The only DC light which will light is the porch light outside. I've read everything I can find about converter failure and the necessity of having the house battery in the system. The solenoid in the Newmark converter/service panel engages when the breakers are turned on and I can hear the hum of the transformer in the converter. Fuses all look good; no loose wiring around the fuse block or the buss bar. Is this another open circuit problem or other? The independent circuit for the porch light is also a surprise.

jack

[Matt in SV]

I think you'll need to invest in a cheap multimeter and check the DC power output right at the fuse block, then work forward from there. The porch light is a good sign. It suggests your converter, or at least the battery is supplying 12v. With the meter you can check to confirm the converter is functioning normally.

Regards,

Matt

[ThomasE]

My rear spot lights went on and off intermittently during a long trip. Under the rear dinette storage compartment, on the side with the converter/fuse panel, is the main run of wires. They were all joined via crimp connectors or Scotch lock type taps. I just jiggled every connection I saw and found one that caused the lights to flicker and replaced that Scotch lock.

[rabbit]

Got a multimeter but it wasn't necessary. The DC fuse block on the front of the converter box had melted plastic around the hot lead on the left side. Whole mess was loose and probably arcing. I am not certain why I had NO lights AT ALL. Numbered all the leads and replaced them on a second fuse block found in a locker which was identical to that installed and perhaps had been purchased as a replacement butwasn't put in service due to the lack of a roundtuit. Got a new NAPA 24 also as the one in place would not charge. I thought at first that the condition of the battery might have something to do with no lights (you can read 4000 pages of converter gobblygook and get enticing but less than definitive answers about the role of house battery in the shore power conversion) but after tidying up that fuse block, the lights are operating without battery in the circuit. As for the independent porch light, I still haven't figured that out after playing with and isolating items that work with breakers. There is an automotive fuse holder in there on a block wire which comes form somwhere thru the box connector and piggybacks with a spade lug on top of the black lead to the screw terminal at top of fuse block. Should have left it unhooked to see what the exterior light did. Next time.

jack

[Bill K]

Just take that inline fuse out and see what doesn't work.

Bill K

Originally Posted by rabbit

Got a multimeter but it wasn't necessary. The DC fuse block on the front of the converter box had melted plastic around the hot lead on the left side. Whole mess was loose and probably arcing. I am not certain why I had NO lights AT ALL. Numbered all the leads and replaced them on a second fuse block found in a locker which was identical to that installed and perhaps had been purchased as a replacement butwasn't put in service due to the lack of a roundtuit. Got a new NAPA 24 also as the one in place would not charge. I thought at first that the condition of the battery might have something to do with no lights (you can read 4000 pages of converter gobblygook and get enticing but less than definitive answers about the role of house battery in the shore power conversion) but after tidying up that fuse block, the lights are operating without battery in the circuit. As for the independent porch light, I still haven't figured that out after playing with and isolating items that work with breakers. There is an automotive fuse holder in there on a block wire which comes form somwhere thru the box connector and piggybacks with a spade lug on top of the black lead to the screw terminal at top of fuse block. Should have left it unhooked to see what the exterior light did. Next time.

jack