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Old 03-20-2021, 04:14 AM   #21
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Name: Lisa
Trailer: Boler 1700
Michigan
Posts: 116
Pictures of the mold/dirt in the window butyl which was visible when we took our shrunken glazing bead off. And the window series number.
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Old 03-23-2021, 05:56 PM   #22
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Name: Rachelle
Trailer: Boler
British Columbia
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Is anyone able to tell me if the insulation used in my boler is ensolite? I had assumed it was but I came across someones blog today who said it wasnt ensolite used in the 17ft bolers?

(Picture is from last year when we re-glued a portion back up)
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Old 03-23-2021, 08:02 PM   #23
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Trailer: 1979 Boler 1700
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Some were made with ensolite. Others were made with what appears to be a spray in foam. The liner in that photo appears to be spray in foam.
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Old 03-27-2021, 06:24 PM   #24
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Name: Tenneille
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British Columbia
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I believe it is an open cell foam. I don't know what was used to give it the popcorn ceiling look. Both my 17' and one of my 13' has this puffy type of liner. Ensolite is more like a skin. The 17' I am working on was partially stripped when I bought it and was due to leaking. The leaks were never dealt with. Removed the rear and side windows and will put new butyl tape, but having a difficult time finding replacement seals and glazing bead.
If your foam is not mouldy you could try reattaching and then painting. It will be easier than stripping and replacing. If you have to remove it and replace...I used 3M 90 spray adhesive to attach reflectix type insulation the lower walls (from mid window to floor along back wall) and then yoga mat on top of that and it seems to hold very well. I don't know if this would be a good option for the ceiling. Contact cement might hold best there but need good ventilation and a respirator to protect from the fumes. Do not use the 3m 77. After sitting in the cold shop (5 degrees max) for 5 months of winter, it has held and look pretty good.
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Old 04-09-2021, 07:03 PM   #25
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Name: Tyler
Trailer: Boler
Manitoba
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rachelle S View Post
I just pulled out one window which we think is causing a leak, I started cleaning off what I think is old butyl tape and was going to apply new stuff and then put it back. But your saying to pull out the part that's attached to the shell and put the butyl tape on that as well? or instead? That part seems really secure to our shell.
Would also like to second Todd's question about the furnace as I think we will need to replace ours as well.
Lastly wondering if anyone in BC knows the best place to get the butyl tape from?
I really appreciate everyone's help!

Hi Rachelle,

Im am just curious if you changed out the fuzzy window seal on your slider window while changing the other seals. If so I'm just wondering where you by chance got it from. Thanks. Also your trailer looks great!

Tyler
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Old 04-09-2021, 07:25 PM   #26
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Name: Rachelle
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British Columbia
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Hi Rachelle,

Im am just curious if you changed out the fuzzy window seal on your slider window while changing the other seals. If so I'm just wondering where you by chance got it from. Thanks. Also your trailer looks great!

Tyler
Hi Tyler,

Im not exactly sure what you mean by fuzzy window seal, but so far all we've done is updating the butyl tape on the window portion that attaches to flange on the fiberglass, on just the one window so far.
If your referring to the sealant from the glass to the frame portion we haven't changed ours but I have come across other posts on here about it that might be helpful for you.
Good luck!
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Old 04-09-2021, 07:52 PM   #27
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Name: Tyler
Trailer: Boler
Manitoba
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Thanks for the quick replay. Yes I am talking about that seal. Guess I should have said fabric rather than fuzzy lol. Anyways ill take a look around on the site and see what I can find. Thanks again!
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Old 04-27-2021, 08:32 PM   #28
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Trailer: 1979 Boler1700
Maple Ridge, B.C.
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Rachelle, you and I have the exact same trailers. I have already done ours and seem to have learned a few of the leak areas they have. You should try fix the leaks first and then work on the interior. Look under the table, you most likely have a leak under there as well. That's not from the window but rather from the screws that hold the table hardware in place. Same with the rear panel. About 1/2 of the 17's have this problem.
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Old 04-27-2021, 08:48 PM   #29
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Name: Rachelle
Trailer: Boler
British Columbia
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Rachelle, you and I have the exact same trailers. I have already done ours and seem to have learned a few of the leak areas they have. You should try fix the leaks first and then work on the interior. Look under the table, you most likely have a leak under there as well. That's not from the window but rather from the screws that hold the table hardware in place. Same with the rear panel. About 1/2 of the 17's have this problem.
Yes we resealed a window and still are having the leak around the dinette, including under the table. Our plan is to replace all the screws/rivets with exterior penetration, reseal all the windows, and change the hinges on the door and we hope that will solve our leaking problems. If you have any other tips we are happy to hear them
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Old 04-27-2021, 08:55 PM   #30
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Name: Rachelle
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British Columbia
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Update re sagging roof - we secured the sagging roof by adding marine plywood to the top with screws and glue. We will be fibreglassing it and adding vents.

(PS is there a way to rotate pictures? Sometimes when I add them they are turned around and I dont know how to fix it?)
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Old 04-27-2021, 09:06 PM   #31
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I pulled all the hardware off the table and sealed the screw holes. Then I fibreglassed plywood pieces to the wall to screw the hardware into.
What concerns me about your trailer is the water damage in the shower area. Was there a shower curtain when you brought the trailer? Before fixing any of the cabinets check the floor for any soft spots.
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Old 04-27-2021, 09:15 PM   #32
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Old v/s nowClick image for larger version

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Old 04-27-2021, 09:31 PM   #33
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Wow, Rachelle, I am very impressed with your roof sag fix. Appears to have worked very well to flatten the roof. Similar to Eric Frye's fix, but he glued the plywood inside/below the roof instead of above the roof. I still need to do mine, haven't decided how.

To your question as to what furnace replacement to use, I replaced my old Boler 1700 furnace with a Propex 2800 last fall. It works great. We are very happy and ordered an upgraded thermostat settable to degrees C or F.

I believe Eric Frye posted on his Zombie Boler thread what new furnace he installed...
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Old 04-28-2021, 04:32 AM   #34
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Name: Eric
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TN
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Yes I did post what heater I installed. But to save you the trouble of looking up the info, I opted for a diesel heater, .

Of course my renewal is far from the original design. I guess you can call it a restomod.
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Old 04-28-2021, 11:41 AM   #35
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Name: Tenneille
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There are about 6 screws holding that table support to the floor. I see the post further down about sealing the screw holes. Did you patch with fiberglass or epoxy?
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Old 04-28-2021, 01:41 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tenneille M. View Post
There are about 6 screws holding that table support to the floor. I see the post further down about sealing the screw holes. Did you patch with fiberglass or epoxy?
I filled the holes with JB Weld then I fibreglassed 3/4" plywood blocks onto the wall. The screws now go into the plywood and not through the fiberglass.
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