1977 Scamp rear window leak mystery - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-12-2017, 05:28 PM   #1
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Name: Lindsey
Trailer: 1977 Scamp
Missouri
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1977 Scamp rear window leak mystery

Hello! I read about every single old thread about window leaks and none QUITE pertained.. so I am hoping someone can help me. I just bought a scamp one week ago, and was assured there were NO LEAKS. Turns out, there is a pretty badly leaking rivet in one of the cabinets and the rear window also seems to be leaking pretty good. I read on some of the other threads about some sort of water channel? I saw on the pop up window assembly some sort of hollow grey tubes that the PO had siliconed over both ends. I also saw a hole in the outer window assembly that had also been silconed over which could possible be some sort of window drain. There is silicon nearly everywhere on this thing which I have been working to remove and replace with vulchem. My question is: how do I stop the leak in the best, most permanent solution, without having to remove all the ensolite and window, etc.?

THANKS for helping a noob!
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Old 03-12-2017, 05:37 PM   #2
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I don't know Scamp, but this ( centre lump ) is what the window channel drain ( inside ) looks like on my trailer.
Poke a think wire into it to keep it open.
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Old 03-12-2017, 05:47 PM   #3
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Since you say "pop up" I assume you mean one of the rear side jalousie windows over the dinette seats, not the large, non-operable, plexiglass back window?

The best and only long-term fix is to remove the window (afraid there's no shortcut there), clean up ALL the misguided attempts to stop the leak with caulk (silicone is the worst!), and reinstall it with fresh butyl tape behind the mounting flange. Some people finish with a small bead of non-silicone sealant for appearance and to protect the butyl, but it's not necessary.

I'm not as familiar with the old-style jalousie windows as the newer radius sliders, but I don't think you have to remove the Ensolite, except maybe pulling it back a little around the window mounting area. I would inspect all the gaskets and seals on the window while it's out. I believe most can be replaced if needed, but others will know more.

The leaking rivet just needs to be drilled out and replaced with a new one. Put a small piece of butyl under the plastic washer* before you shoot the rivet.
*If yours has plastic snap caps over the rivets; I've heard some early Scamps didn't. If not, then put a little ring under the rivet head itself.

BTW- Time to change your profile from "in the market" to "1977 Scamp." How about some pictures while you're at it? Congratulations on joining the Scamp family!
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Old 03-12-2017, 05:49 PM   #4
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on my 79 Boler the cabinets are held un to roof with 1/4 round headed bolts with acorn nuts on inside. I took them out and got some 1/4 rubber washers to put on the outside and refastend the bolt and nut taking care not to over tighten to distort the rubber. Did use lock tite on the acorn nut so it would no loosen.
15 years and no leaks.
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Old 03-12-2017, 08:06 PM   #5
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Is the rear window in your 1977 Scamp, the three pane rear tilt out window? Like this?
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Old 03-12-2017, 08:40 PM   #6
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Name: Lindsey
Trailer: 1977 Scamp
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Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
Is the rear window in your 1977 Scamp, the three pane rear tilt out window? Like this?
Indeed it is! it has all the little arms and everything. There is just a nightmarish amount of silicone over everything.. and a leak that must be fairly newish, as the wood is all solid
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Old 03-12-2017, 09:17 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by byersl View Post
Indeed it is! it has all the little arms and everything. There is just a nightmarish amount of silicone over everything.. and a leak that must be fairly newish, as the wood is all solid
Okay, now we're cookin'! One of the members, Jenny, rebuilt her Scamp tilt-out windows years back. Sooooo, while some of the numbers may have changed, you may find value in the information contained in her post. Her trailer was a 1976, but it uses the same windows: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ows-42049.html

Good luck!
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Old 03-13-2017, 06:58 AM   #8
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Good catch, Donna! I was a mile off on that one.

Hope Donna's link is helpful , Lindsey. Best wishes!
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Old 03-13-2017, 09:06 AM   #9
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rear window leaking to the inside

Our 2000 Scamp had the horizontal sliding rear window.
Dirt would build up in the bottom track and clog the weep holes (horizontal slots) to where a heavy rain against it, would spill over on the inside.
SO, you need to periodicaly clean it out. Use a wire to probe through those slots.
I even found bits of insects that had crawled in there to hibernate.
The weep holes need to stay open. Over time the rubber sealing strips shrunk and left gaps in the lower corners. Those I caulked.
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Old 03-13-2017, 09:16 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by byersl View Post
Indeed it is! it has all the little arms and everything. There is just a nightmarish amount of silicone over everything.. and a leak that must be fairly newish, as the wood is all solid
You have a different window than I had originally thought.(thanks Donna)
I think your only solution is to remove the window, clean all surfaces, and reinstall it.
Is there a gasket on the tip out window?
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Old 03-13-2017, 09:26 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
Good catch, Donna! I was a mile off on that one.

Hope Donna's link is helpful , Lindsey. Best wishes!
I certainly wouldn't fault anyone for trying to be helpful. That's what this forum is all about! I just know the 1976-1977 Scamps came with the tilt-out windows. Yeah know... knowledge is power . Now you know too!
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Old 03-13-2017, 12:03 PM   #12
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I agree with Floyd- R&R is the best long-term fix. Although I was picturing a different window, the advice still applies. Remove the window, clean ALL the old caulk from window and shell, inspect and (if necessary) replace seals and gaskets within the window (that's where the old thread should help), and then reinstall with fresh butyl tape (with or without a finish bead of non-silicone sealant for appearance). Glad to hear the wood is solid- that means you shouldn't have to disturb the Ensolite.
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Old 03-13-2017, 12:24 PM   #13
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Name: Tomodachi
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Rivet leak

My 83 Scamp has been "revised"....... no idea how many times, but rivets were replaced by a poor craftsman. Some are still loose. I used to work in a vinyl sign shop. I asked them to plot out as many 1.5" circles out of white (or closely matching) vinyl a $10 bill would buy. I just simply peel them off and put them on the OUTSIDE and directly over the offending rivet. Problem solved! I too have "customized" the trailer and am not interested in restoration quality. Functional and cheap allows more cash for camping.
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Old 03-14-2017, 09:05 PM   #14
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Name: Lindsey
Trailer: 1977 Scamp
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Originally Posted by floyd View Post
You have a different window than I had originally thought.(thanks Donna)
I think your only solution is to remove the window, clean all surfaces, and reinstall it.
Is there a gasket on the tip out window?
There is kind of a gasket. there is a little channel that fits in a groove that goes around the whole window assembly. IT looks like at one point it could have been round, but now is kind of squished. I ordered replacements from Vintage Trailer Supply.

We are going to attempt to take out the window and put down fresh butyl tape and put it back in. However- the window frame is metal and it is riveted in. No matter how many threads I have searched I can't find the rivet size for the window. I found another GREAT thread with about every other rivet size for a '77 scamp. Has anyone replaced this window??
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Old 03-14-2017, 09:07 PM   #15
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Name: Lindsey
Trailer: 1977 Scamp
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Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
I agree with Floyd- R&R is the best long-term fix. Although I was picturing a different window, the advice still applies. Remove the window, clean ALL the old caulk from window and shell, inspect and (if necessary) replace seals and gaskets within the window (that's where the old thread should help), and then reinstall with fresh butyl tape (with or without a finish bead of non-silicone sealant for appearance). Glad to hear the wood is solid- that means you shouldn't have to disturb the Ensolite.
Gonna give it a go at least! Thanks for the encouragement
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