1980 Trillium 4500 Bunk Bed Plans - Fiberglass RV
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Old 10-06-2015, 03:22 PM   #1
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Name: Tobin
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1980 Trillium 4500 Bunk Bed Plans

I've recently purchased a 1980 Trillium 4500 and it has the remnants of the bunk bed safety pole bracket for the front mounted bunk beds. However the previous owner only used it as a couch and I would like to go back to bunks for my two grandsons. Does anyone have the plans for the size of cushions and mounting methods? Where I can get the poles or dimensions?

Also, It looks like at sometime, the door lock was jimmied and ruined the cylinder and caused the door to not close at the bottom. Like the two layers of door have separated. Is it fixable or are there used doors out there for sale..

Lastly, I'm going to be selling a working Carrier top mounted a/c unit ( works) but smells like cigarette smoke. If anyone needs one..Thanks
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Old 10-06-2015, 03:46 PM   #2
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I don't work fast, but I can get you drawings of the cushion, and plywood parts. There are two sections which are connected by a piano hinge. The whole assembly is also connected to the bottom of the front window frame using a piano hinge.

I also happen to have a spare one, but shipping would be ridiculously expensive.
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Old 10-06-2015, 07:52 PM   #3
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Thanks David!

Thanks David, any help would be greatly appreciated. Any where you could recommend for parts, like latches, light fixtures, etc?
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Old 10-08-2015, 09:50 AM   #4
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The type of latches used on the cupboard doors can be found at the kitchen supply department of your local hardware store. Maybe bring in an example for the staff to see. That way you are more likely to find what you are looking for.

I will start working on the drawing.
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Old 10-13-2015, 02:33 PM   #5
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In the same boat so following.
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Old 05-06-2018, 07:32 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
I don't work fast, but I can get you drawings of the cushion, and plywood parts. There are two sections which are connected by a piano hinge. The whole assembly is also connected to the bottom of the front window frame using a piano hinge.

I also happen to have a spare one, but shipping would be ridiculously expensive.
David,
Did you ever finish drawing up those plans? I’m looking for bunk bed plans for a 1300. I thought there was a resources section on this site, but I can’t seem to find it!
Thanks.
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Old 05-07-2018, 08:14 AM   #7
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Jennifer, I totally forgot about it. I think I will start on it tonight. I will start with the 1300, since that is what you require. The 4500 will come next.

As for resources check under the More tab at the top of the page. The document center is very handy.
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Old 05-07-2018, 07:24 PM   #8
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Thanks so much David! Do you still have the spare set? I will check out the ‘more’ tab!
What density of foam would you recommend?
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Old 05-08-2018, 08:08 AM   #9
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Yes, I do have a spare upper bunk for a 1300. The fabric is toast, but otherwise seems usable. As for density, I have never replaced the foam, so I have no idea, sorry.
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Old 05-08-2018, 09:11 PM   #10
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Trillium 1300 Upper Bunk

Dimensions are in inches.

I tore apart my spare upper bunk, so I am fairly confident of the dimensions of the plywood.

Please note: Measuring foam is not an exact science. The foam is 4" thick.

The two circles are the bunk support locations. These are shower curtain rod ends with a 1" diameter. The 36" wide rectangle at the top of the plywood is the piano hinge.

The 4500 will be next.
Attached Thumbnails
Trillium 1300 Upper Bunk.jpg  
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Old 05-09-2018, 11:35 AM   #11
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David, this is amazing! Thank you so much! I have two more questions.
Does the 'R' refer to the length of the curve?
How far down from the bottom of the window frame is the piano hinge attached?

This is going to save me so much guessing and error time!!!
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Old 05-09-2018, 12:12 PM   #12
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R stands for radius the distance from the center of the arc to the circumference.

The attachment to the window frame is on the flat section of the frame and it is through another 3/4" piece of plywood. This allows for the use of 1.5" screws.
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Old 05-13-2018, 02:11 PM   #13
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The front window was resealed by the PO and he replaced some of the wood frame. There is no extension of the wood framing below the window anymore. I'm thinking I will have to glass a piece of wood under the frame so that I have somewhere to attach the piano hinge to. Any measurements or information you could give me about how it attaches would be most appreciated!

And thanks again for all the help you have already given!
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Old 05-13-2018, 02:58 PM   #14
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Another question!

How thick should the plywood be?

THANKS!!!
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Old 05-14-2018, 08:24 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jennygdeans View Post
Another question!

How thick should the plywood be?

THANKS!!!

3/4"
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Old 05-22-2018, 07:13 PM   #16
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Thanks for all this information David.
As I think it through I think I need to reframe the bottom of the window again, even though the P.O. just did this. The bottom part of the frame is smaller now and not wide enough to accommodate the piano hinge or the extra piece of plywood so that I can use the 1.5 inch screws. Does this make sense? The piano hinge screws should be going through wood that is glassed and screwed to the shell to support the upper bunk - right?!?
I want to make sure I do it right.

Thanks to anyone with any guidance!
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Old 05-23-2018, 12:21 PM   #17
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The way the factory did it was to glue the wood to the fibreglass, but there was no glass covering the wood. The top and bottom pieces are as wide as the window, plus the width of the vertical pieces, which are only as long as the window opening is tall. The window screws, from the outside, through the frame of the window itself. Then, through the fibreglass, and into the wood frame. This anchors the wood in place and allows the bunk to mount to it. The Ensolite is then glued to the wood frame. An additional strip of wood is screwed on top of the Ensolite using a few screws that will not line up with the holes on the piano hinge. Then the piano hinge is screwed through both the strip of wood that is on top of the Ensolite, and the wood frame around the window. DO NOT USE SCREWS THAT ARE TOO LONG. If you do, they will go through the fibreglass and possibly damage the window.

Later tonight I will post pictures, possibly drawings.
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Old 06-03-2018, 05:26 PM   #18
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I can totally picture it now David - thank you!
Would t be possible to get the dimensions of the width of the bottom of the window frame and the dimensions of the extra piece of wood that went on top?
Also, does the piece of wood at the bottom of the window frame (under the ensolite) end with angles on the sides? I’m not sure how to explain it, but instead of ending at a 90 degree angle it tapers out at probably at 45 degree angle?
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Old 06-03-2018, 09:02 PM   #19
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Jennifer, Yes the bottom pieces end with a 45° bevel. I have attached a picture of the window frame minus the bunk, and several drawings. All the plywood is 3/4" thick.
I hope that helps.
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_2695.jpg   Bunk Install - Window Frame Cross Section.jpg  

Bunk Install - Window Frame.jpg   Bunk Install - Window Frame Assembly.jpg  

Bunk Install - Exploded ISO.jpg   Bunk Install - Exploded ORTHO.jpg  

Bunk Install - ISO.jpg   Bunk Install - ORTHO.jpg  

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Old 06-11-2018, 01:26 PM   #20
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The type of latches used on the cupboard doors can be found at the kitchen supply department of your local hardware store. Maybe bring in an example for the staff to see. That way you are more likely to find what you are looking for.

I will start working on the drawing.
Hi David
My 4500 has a small dinnette in the front with two seats and with the small table placed in down position - gives ONE bed - There is NO top bed (bunk)
Are the 'drawings' you are preparing - good for me to install the ''second' (top)
bunk? And did you say you have THAT needed TOP part to make the top bunk?
Please advise. Thanks. Dennis Anderson
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