2019 Casita Range Hood Vent Rivet problems - Fiberglass RV
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Old 02-20-2024, 05:47 PM   #1
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Name: Ordale
Trailer: Casita
Florida
Posts: 16
2019 Casita Range Hood Vent Rivet problems

I found water leaking into the vent so I figured I would drill the old rivets out and put new rivets in. I went and bought a new rivet gun and went to work.
It did not work out as planned. I can't get the rivets to bite since the surface is not flat and the rivets are going into an insert. I've used a rivet gun before and never have I ever dealt with a situation like this.

Do I need a special adapter or rivet gun? Any tricks that I am missing?

I put it back together for now and put some flex seal on it till I figure it out.

Any help would be appreciated.

Oh and Harold from Casita said to use Number 68 rivet. Not completely sure what rivet that is so I took a guess with the ones I had from the purchase of the Casita.
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Old 02-22-2024, 01:44 AM   #2
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Name: CalCop
Trailer: Casita
California
Posts: 232
So, it sounds like you're not using the correct diameter rivet.
When rivets break most of us replace them with stainless steel screws and acorn nuts.
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Old 02-22-2024, 01:45 PM   #3
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Name: Ordale
Trailer: Casita
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CalCop View Post
So, it sounds like you're not using the correct diameter rivet.
When rivets break most of us replace them with stainless steel screws and acorn nuts.

I used the one that Casita recommended but I donít know how I would get an acorn nut in there without removing the inside range hood vent
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Old 02-22-2024, 10:26 PM   #4
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The rivet shank should be tight in the hole but too tight.
When setting the rivet the stem is pulled through the shank, expanding the outer wall eventually shearing the stem
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Old 02-22-2024, 10:41 PM   #5
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Name: Ordale
Trailer: Casita
Florida
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Thank you Cal cop.

When I have installed rivets before, I always had the rivet gun rest tightly against the rivet while installing. Because of the insert that the rivet sits in, I can't do that so doesn't seem to want to go flat. Maybe I can use a spacer between the rivet and the rivet gun to make all connect.

I thought of using rive nuts as well but heard they are not the best for fiberglass. So many opinions,

I did order a new ridge vent, so hopefully it comes in soon and I can figure this out. Probably overthinking it but since I had the trailer water came from a threaded Pex to the sink and then the ridge vent. I tightened the hec out of so that won't happen again.
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Old 02-23-2024, 12:46 AM   #6
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Name: CalCop
Trailer: Casita
California
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Maybe a picture or two would hep
Iím not sure what you mean by insert
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Old 02-23-2024, 06:26 AM   #7
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Name: Jonathan
Trailer: ex-Casita, now Alto R series
Massachusetts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ordale View Post
I thought of using rive nuts as well but heard they are not the best for fiberglass.
Don't use rivnuts for this application. These expand in diameter to create the holding grip. That expansion is not well tolerated by fiberglass. The single layer of material into which a rivnut should be inserted has to be thick enough, and strong enough, that the nut can't be pulled out after expansion. Only consider a rivnut if the backing layer behind the fiberglass is thick enough, and the nut is installed into only that backing material (so that the hood and backing sandwich the fiberglass between them).
Blind rivets also have a bit of diametric expansion as they are secured, but the majority of their grip is from their shortening length squeeze.
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Old 02-23-2024, 06:26 AM   #8
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Name: David
Trailer: Casita Liberty Deluxe
LA
Posts: 123
I replaced my outside stove hood vent assy recently, and the rivet holes were drilled through the fiberglass shell, not sure what you mean by inserts.

The outer section of the vent snaps on after the flange is sealed and riveted onto the wall (butyl tape and silicone) you must remove the outer snap on housing to inspect the flange for leaks.

Many rivet guns have a flat surface which makes it difficult to install rivets in recessed holes, you need a gun with tapered tips like the Marson pictured on many Casita projects.
There are several threads on the Casita Forum about leaking stove vents and which rivets to use.

https://www.casitaforum.com/invboard...-vent-on-17ld/

Your last post said you ordered a new ridge vent, now I'm thinking you me be talking about the plumbing vent on the roof??

As Cal Cop suggested pictures would be a help.
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Old 02-23-2024, 07:46 AM   #9
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Name: Ordale
Trailer: Casita
Florida
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Confirmed. I will not use rive nuts. I appreciate the response



Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon MB View Post
Don't use rivnuts for this application. These expand in diameter to create the holding grip. That expansion is not well tolerated by fiberglass. The single layer of material into which a rivnut should be inserted has to be thick enough, and strong enough, that the nut can't be pulled out after expansion. Only consider a rivnut if the backing layer behind the fiberglass is thick enough, and the nut is installed into only that backing material (so that the hood and backing sandwich the fiberglass between them).
Blind rivets also have a bit of diametric expansion as they are secured, but the majority of their grip is from their shortening length squeeze.
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Old 02-23-2024, 07:50 AM   #10
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Name: Ordale
Trailer: Casita
Florida
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Thank you. Yes, that’s the word! Recessed hole! That’s my problem with the rivets when I was trying to reinstall the range hood vent.
As far as pics go, The app will not work and it doesn’t have an attachment option o can see on here. I will dig deeper and figure it out. Thank you kindly.
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Old 02-23-2024, 08:50 AM   #11
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Name: Ordale
Trailer: Casita
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I did use a spacer between the gun and the rivet but it just isn't worth a dang. Also, I do not like the arrow rivet gun. Just my opinion, some may love it.
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Old 02-27-2024, 10:52 PM   #12
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Name: Ordale
Trailer: Casita
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Received new range vent for exterior.

Looks jacked up. What weíre they thinking when they cut on this? Iím
Sure they have templates. Lol
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Old 02-28-2024, 06:29 AM   #13
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Name: Jonathan
Trailer: ex-Casita, now Alto R series
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Template? For a jig saw cut? Who cares what it looks like? It's not like anyone will ever find out.

Now ask yourself what other shortcuts (or excessively sloppy cuts) were made in the assembly of your top quality, hence top-dollar, fiberglass egg camper that are all that much different from those in a stick-built....

p.s.: does 'RVIA" = RV Inept Assembly?
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Old 02-28-2024, 07:02 AM   #14
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Name: Ordale
Trailer: Casita
Florida
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Yeah, you are absolutely right Job B. I just didnít know if some of that plastic needed to extend a little bit further but now that I think about it it wonít need to.

Shoot, at least I figured out how to put more pictures on here.
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Old 02-28-2024, 07:27 AM   #15
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Name: David
Trailer: Casita Liberty Deluxe
LA
Posts: 123
If you look at my second picture in post #8 you can see the new one on the left has a considerably taller flange than the older yellowed one, I had to trim it down also.

I didn't realize there's a shorter version available.

Your recent pictures highlight the importance of a good seal on the rear of the flat surface which has all of those recesses and only very small narrow flat surfaces to seal.

I chose to use butyl tape first, mounted it with rivets then put a bead of silicone around the edges followed by a bead of silicone across the top cover after it was snapped on.

there's page after page of discussion on the Casita forum on leaking vents, replacing the vent including links to part numbers, how to seal, etc.

https://www.casitaforum.com/invboard...comment-325314
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Old 03-01-2024, 02:10 PM   #16
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DO NOT USE SILICONE

DO NOT USE SILICONE. It will leak, only use a calking that is for RV use on it like Dicor Non Sagging window sealer. I am not a fan of CAMPING WORLD and only show this link so you can see the product. It is available at most all RV parts and supply stores. The are 2 kinds, one is Self Leveling to use on flat surface like around a roof vent. The other is Non Sagging to use to seal around windows and thing on the walls like fan vents water fill door frames.

Silicone sealers only work for a while and make it hard to remove what ever you sealed to replace or reseal it again. Dicor type sealants are easy to scrape off and it will adhere to old sealant that is not silicone. And yes I have learned the hard way. You should use masking tape in a straight line about 1/2" away from what you are sealing when using sealants so the finished job looks good. Let the sealant overlap the area a little on the masking tape. Let it sit for about 15 minutes than remove the tape and you have a professional looking job you can be proud to show others. Use butyl tape between the fiberglass and the accessory you are installing. Make sure all surfaces are clean and dry before using any sealers. I wish I had listened to others when I started doing my own RV repairs and modification and learn from their mistakes and not my own.

Hope you are able to seal it well the first time.


https://www.campingworld.com/dicor-n...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
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Old 03-03-2024, 08:59 PM   #17
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Name: Ordale
Trailer: Casita
Florida
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Thank you Robert! I did order what Casita uses. I think itís Silicone, so maybe Iíll change it up.
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Old 03-05-2024, 02:05 PM   #18
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Name: Ordale
Trailer: Casita
Florida
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Iíll make a new thread but I got the new vent on. Used butyl tape and Lexel sealant. Not the most perfect caulk job but works.
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