'71 Boler refrigerator - Fiberglass RV
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Old 10-25-2016, 10:00 AM   #1
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'71 Boler refrigerator

Our Boler has a lp refrigerator that I want to pull and replace with a dorm size refrigerator...I want to make sure I keep it safe as I want to still have the gas going to the stove...can anyone offer insight on pulling the fridge?

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Old 10-25-2016, 10:26 AM   #2
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Why do you want to replace the existing fridge? Has it been certified DOA?

Lots of great places we go do not have electric hookups. Even when available, the no-hookups sites are often nicer as well as cheaper.
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Old 10-26-2016, 07:44 AM   #3
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Not sure if working or not but not crazy about a lp refrigerator ... it is the original fridge and would rather have electric one in there. I anticipate only doing sites with a hookup so not a factor at this point plus I have one to put in. Looking for advice on pulling it and what needs to be done with the gas lines.

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Old 10-26-2016, 10:48 AM   #4
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Regarding your lp lines, it depends whether you will use the gas stove and heater. You will need to cap the connection if you do. I know each person has their own preferences, but a working gas fridge is much nicer than a dorm fridge. Incredibly efficient, and very convenient for traveling and camping without hookups. They also are a plus when selling. I recommend going through the learning curve and seeing if it doesn't win you over. Electric compressor fridges have serious overheating issues in south Florida.
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Old 10-26-2016, 11:36 AM   #5
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I understand your reluctance to use the fridge. RV fridges, especially older ones, can be finicky and, as said, there is a learning curve. In addition, given its age, this one could well be on its last legs.

It wouldn't hurt to test it on electric, though, if for no other reason than to verify whether the cooling loop is working. If it is, you could (1) use it on electric only for a while to see if the electric-only plan is going to work for you, or (2) sell it for a little $ online, knowing that it does work.

If you do decide to remove it, just cap off the LP line and leave it and the wiring in place should you (or a future owner) decide to put a 2- or 3-way fridge back in. For safety you'll want to do a drop test of the entire LP system before reconnecting the tank.
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Old 10-26-2016, 11:54 AM   #6
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Cool thanks

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Old 10-26-2016, 01:09 PM   #7
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Thank goodness for my propane refrigerator when I spent four days/three nights at Lassen National Park last month. Typically there's NO services in our national parks. Having a refrigerator that runs on propane (too) gives you options where you otherwise not want to camp.
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Old 10-26-2016, 01:44 PM   #8
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You might also consider an event that causes a prolonged power outage at your home. It's good to have propane backup, for refrigeration and for heat.
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Old 10-26-2016, 02:10 PM   #9
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Thanks - I will check it out and see if it actually works. We do plan on using the 2 burner stove.
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Old 10-27-2016, 07:21 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo View Post
You might also consider an event that causes a prolonged power outage at your home. It's good to have propane backup, for refrigeration and for heat.
The 1.9cf fridge in the typical 13'er would hold your insulin or a couple days' supply of beer*, but not both. Which is probably a good thing, since if you're on insulin you probably shouldn't be drinking beer.

For the rest of the perishable contents of your home fridge and deep freeze a generator might be more practical preparation.

*NOTE: The example in the first paragraph is purely rhetorical. I claim no knowledge of anyone's health or what anyone would consider critical perishables during a power outage. But it better not be much if your only back-up is a teeny, tiny RV fridge!
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