72 Boler Door/frame/shell? - Fiberglass RV
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Old 05-31-2018, 09:07 PM   #1
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Name: Adam
Trailer: Boler 1300, 1972
Alberta
Posts: 36
72 Boler Door/frame/shell?

My wife and I have had lengthy conversations as to keep our boler, or to set it free. 99% leaning towards keeping, knowing that shes due for some TLC. My biggest concern is the door, which I believe is the result of most likely some frame issues. Posting some pictures to see what the Fiberglass crew thinks.

I posted earlier about Metro Center out of Winnipeg, pretty sure that they will get a frame order soon, depending on what shipping costs will add up to. No space or time to build a frame myself unfortunately. Tis a downfall of condo living. Anyway. If anyone has some additional insights before pulling the frame trigger Id love to hear them!
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Old 05-31-2018, 09:16 PM   #2
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Name: Adam
Trailer: Boler 1300, 1972
Alberta
Posts: 36
Well, sideways pictures are a little. Annoying. Oops. Cant seem to fix that. Thats the state of the door. The hinges (other than missing the proper ball and spring hardware, which are in order) are in good shape, tight to the shell, no wear at the holes, and true. The shell seems to be bulging out on the side of the door, more so on the hinge side of the door. The closet is still in place and intact, never removed to my knowledge. The counter to shelf support was taken out to be cleaned and painted and reinstalled to original riveted position. As best I can see, I cannot find any fault in the shell structure. The frame however....
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Old 05-31-2018, 09:22 PM   #3
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Name: Adam
Trailer: Boler 1300, 1972
Alberta
Posts: 36
Pictures don’t show it very well, but there are some gaps between frame and belly, and the crack is at the gusset support below the door, on the wheel side of the box out in the frame. As I mentioned, guessing this is a crack frame frame flex and fatigue. Which is dropping the door down.

Also fun, but (no picture) is a significant dent in the axle case square tube running across the frame. Definitely the cause of the reduculious amount of tire wear I get. Way out of alignment, but Standens in Calgary priced the alignment to be about what a new frame will cost, with a new axle installed!

If this thing wasn’t so damn cute, or a wedding gift to each other between my wife and I I think it would find a new home. We’re suckers for history though it seems.
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Old 06-02-2018, 01:32 PM   #4
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Name: Tim
Trailer: Boler
Alberta
Posts: 272
Have you drilled any holes in the bottom so that any accumulated water can drain? Might help a bit if it's full.
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Old 06-02-2018, 02:13 PM   #5
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Name: Roy
Trailer: 1975 Boler
Nova Scotia
Posts: 53
Looks like you need a new frame and axle but look at it this way, the trailer will be excellent then and worth a lot more than it is right now..
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Old 06-02-2018, 02:53 PM   #6
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Name: Adam
Trailer: Boler 1300, 1972
Alberta
Posts: 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by TimR View Post
Have you drilled any holes in the bottom so that any accumulated water can drain? Might help a bit if it's full.
You are suggesting in the door? No I have not. Worth a poke I suppose!
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Old 06-02-2018, 02:56 PM   #7
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Name: Adam
Trailer: Boler 1300, 1972
Alberta
Posts: 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roy S View Post
Looks like you need a new frame and axle but look at it this way, the trailer will be excellent then and worth a lot more than it is right now..
It amazes me the amount that some of the offers are for it, basically unseen or inspected. Nuts how much demand there is! Its a good part about why we want to keep, it would probably be an arm and a leg down the road to re-claim a unit again!
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Old 06-02-2018, 03:40 PM   #8
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Name: Roy
Trailer: 1975 Boler
Nova Scotia
Posts: 53
Yes, they are in high demand, I meant the frame under the trailer, by the looks of that door it must be cracked or broken. I'd keep it if I were you and put a new frame and axle under it if you like camping that is. I recently purchased a 1975 and am restoring it right now. Lucky for me the frame is excellent, it only needs a good cleaning, a rear window and new upholstery and she'll be good to go!
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Old 06-06-2018, 10:14 PM   #9
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Name: Bryan
Trailer: Boler
British Columbia
Posts: 7
door frame

I have the same issue. I replaced the stiffening bars down the inside of the door frame. I bent them to shape to pull the walls back in. Still not perfect but keeps the rain out. Also I found the floor sags on the hinge side. So when I restored the Unit i welded an piece of angle iron out from the frame to pick up some of that hanging weight.
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Old 06-07-2018, 07:05 AM   #10
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Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
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The "holes in the door" suggestion hints at a second possible cause of the large gap at the bottom of the door. Scamps can develop this problem and I'm guessing Bolers too, if the doors are made the same way. The wood core that stiffens the door can become saturated with water from a leaking window or latch, causing the door to lose its shape at the bottom.

Unfortunately, poking holes only reveals the problem, it won't correct it. If you do have this issue, there are a number of old threads on replacing the door core. It's a project.

It also looks like you have some hinge sag. The top gap appears to widen from front to rear. Assuming the hinge attachments to door and body are tight, a hinge rebuild kit should correct that. Scamp sells one that works on Bolers, but I'll recommend the premium stainless steel kit offered by forum member Ian Giles:
Camping Treasures
He also has tons of great information about Bolers on his main website:
Proud Canadian
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Old 06-07-2018, 10:44 AM   #11
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Name: Adam
Trailer: Boler 1300, 1972
Alberta
Posts: 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
The "holes in the door" suggestion hints at a second possible cause of the large gap at the bottom of the door. Scamps can develop this problem and I'm guessing Bolers too, if the doors are made the same way. The wood core that stiffens the door can become saturated with water from a leaking window or latch, causing the door to lose its shape at the bottom.

Unfortunately, poking holes only reveals the problem, it won't correct it. If you do have this issue, there are a number of old threads on replacing the door core. It's a project.

It also looks like you have some hinge sag. The top gap appears to widen from front to rear. Assuming the hinge attachments to door and body are tight, a hinge rebuild kit should correct that. Scamp sells one that works on Bolers, but I'll recommend the premium stainless steel kit offered by forum member Ian Giles:
Camping Treasures
He also has tons of great information about Bolers on his main website:
Proud Canadian
Hinge kit is on order, should be arriving any day now. New pins, springs and balsl should take up some of the door drama.

Hadn’t thought about water getting into the wood core. Have to look into that one. At least a door fits in my garage (too many bikes and rediculiously small condo garage. That’s a manageable project. Have to get it on the new frame then match curves to that position. See what drill holes reveal first though.
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Old 06-09-2018, 02:22 PM   #12
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Name: Roy
Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Ontario
Posts: 5,028
Look up body sag or body bulge.

The weak spot is behind your 3rd picture down.

Wood floors? I know of one member whose body shaped up after replacing the floor.
From the looks of the finish, there might be some FG repairs underneath.
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Old 06-09-2018, 02:27 PM   #13
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Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adriemel83 View Post
Also fun, but (no picture) is a significant dent in the axle case square tube running across the frame.
If it is exactly in the center, it might be the bend made on purpose by the axle factory for wheel alignment.
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Old 06-09-2018, 07:13 PM   #14
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Name: Wayne
Trailer: Boler
British Columbia
Posts: 22
Frame sagging

I have a 1972 13' Boler that I picked up for$1500 .. but it had a bent hitch. The original plan was to straighten or replace the hitch. Either way the shell had to taken off before any welding could be done. Once it was off and on the floor had a welder come and take a look at it. He looked at it and did some calcs. and came back with the statement "Hell you could build a new frame for what it will cost to repair it."
Now I do have covered space to work in so it was easy to lay the old frame on the floor out as a template and the new was built to the same dimensions but with heavier steel. Also put a new axle on c/w electric brakes.
Total cost $2500 to $3000 if I include the beer.
Looking at your pics there does appear to be a bend and definitely a break. To do any patch work you have to keep in mind that you are going to have to go back to find solid steel to weld to. (that is 43 year old steel you are working with)

In short I would recommend that you look at that route rather than have a frame failure somewhere on a distant highway.
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Old 06-10-2018, 03:36 AM   #15
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Name: Gerry
Trailer: 1979 Boler 1300 / 1991 Casita Freedom Deluxe
Maine
Posts: 1,761
Sad to say I have same issues in my 79 and had to make the same decision. Mine is mostly body bulge and I've decided to sell. (Wife is almost crying)
I have seen a strut system where one can use threaded rod attached to Ell brackets on each side of inside of door, then by tightening nuts on this threaded rod, bring the bottom of door back to where it should be.
As Jon said if the core is gone, just drilling holes to let water drain will not bring door back into shape.
Taking the "Ladybug" out on her last journey, for us, today up to the Rangeley Lakes in Maine.
Be back in a week to pick up my new to me, 1990 Casita and start the process all over again.
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Old 07-02-2018, 07:34 AM   #16
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Name: John
Trailer: '71 Boler, '87 Play-Mor II
Deep South
Posts: 1,213
I had a similar issue and after removing the body and seeing no frame issues I opened the door up to find the interior wood core rotten to a mushy pulp. I rebuilt it using a metal frame inside the door and filled the voids with styrofoam insulation cut to fit. Best mod I did, see the details in my thread Our 1971 Boler Mods

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