76 Scamp 13 back shell resting on frame - Fiberglass RV
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Old 02-22-2022, 11:46 AM   #1
Junior Member
Name: W
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 7
76 Scamp 13 back shell resting on frame

Wanted to try and get some advice on what to do next on our 76 scamp 13. I removed the back bottom board and upon removal I noticed that the driver's side frame is dug into the back wall a little bit, around 1/4". On the passenger side (door side) it looks normal with the 1/4" gap from wall to frame. When I try to jack the wall up using a 2x4 on the belly band, I can see the belly band start to flex outward, so I don't know how much I can lift it without causing more issues.

(Pictures with the red Jack in the background are the drivers side)
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hungryhippo13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2022, 11:50 AM   #2
Junior Member
Name: W
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 7
Note: My first instinct is to remove the bottom tabbing. Place the new board down and re-tab from underneath while using the jack to add additional support to the belly beam (even though it stresses the belly beam, I'm replacing that as well.) Then re-do the top tabbing and let fully cure for 7 days before removing the jack and existing cradle.
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Old 02-22-2022, 12:49 PM   #3
Senior Member
Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Posts: 2,332
As the floor rots and softens the shell settles on the frame, wearing the opening like you see. This is because the floor only really supports near the frame as the floor is not that stiff. The sides provide no support as they are quite a way away from the shell and are only attached with a few sheet metal screws into the top of the frame.
On my rebuild I welded 1 1/2" steel tubing to make frame extensions from the frame to the sides and then used 3/4" plywood flooring in a single piece across the back. The added 3/4" floor sits on the new frame additions and screwed in place and tabbed to the shell. This stiffens up the entire shell. The new bunks along each side attached to the shell as well and the cabinets make it stiller than the original ever thought about being.
If you do not add any additional support the entire shell is basically still supported essentially where the frame passes under the shell.
redbarron55 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2022, 07:42 PM   #4
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Trailer: Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 1,815
You're not building a Piano.

Lifting the shell from the shop floor can be a waste of time and effort. You have to jack the shell from the frame members. On some trailers the shell just will not lift, and it is what it is. Just establish a new baseline. Lift/support the shell from the frame as best you can. Then cut you desired shell gap over the frame rails. (Usually enough to install your black trim.) If you cut the gap too high the floor will be exposed to the outside elements. Then install your floor. The worse issue would be having to make shim strips for your bench tabbing for your benches. Don't worry, just remember nothing is hardly square or straight in a Scamp. After you repair the floor, you will be ready to enjoy your Scamp another 45 years.
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Old 05-13-2022, 05:50 PM   #5
Junior Member
Name: Aoife
Trailer: Boler
New York
Posts: 6
Hi. I have the same issue - what looks to be wear from rubbing on the back shell by the frame, on the streetside. Looks exactly like your photo as well as the one brownrecluse posted about back in 2013. He seemed to think it was an axle issue. I also see that more recently brownrecluse was looking to get a new frame. My 1975 Boler is still all together with the dinette benches so I can't see the actual floor, but definitely can see from the underside that the streetside floor bows down significantly more than the curbside. The axle seems pretty good, appears to have been replaced by the PO. Frame looks good but of course I dont know what I'd see if I lifted the shell. Is it your experience that this issue is often caused by the floor warp not the frame or axle?
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